tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-18731973691661222232024-03-05T04:15:25.497-08:00TravelMichael McSorleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06352593190581090069noreply@blogger.comBlogger14125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1873197369166122223.post-90156238669322919322021-07-26T08:16:00.086-07:002021-07-28T05:58:22.272-07:00Scotland's lochs and locks<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><u><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 137%;">Introduction<o:p></o:p></span></u></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 137%;">Beautiful weather, gorgeous locations
and good company ensured that this summer's holiday was just about perfect.<o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 137%;">Rather than trying to second-guess
the ever-changing machinations of Government travel policy, we decided in
February to travel from Belfast by ferry and spend early July in Scotland's
Western Highlands.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Argyll and Bute to be
precise.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>No airport security, no vaccine
passports, no quarantining, no complications - hopefully.<o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 137%;">Week one was a family reunion, five
couples plus grandchildren.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We stayed in
a well-equipped 13-bedroom house at Ormidale near Tighnabruaich on the Cowal
peninsula (1).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>To borrow the local
parlance, this was a clan gathering, our first since January 2019.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The purpose was to celebrate a number of
birthdays and anniversaries ending in zero and a new grand-daughter soon to
reach 2 years old.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 137%;">Week two (minus offspring families)
was based in a "big wee hoose" in Inveraray (2).<o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 137%;">The late-winter gamble paid off as
lady luck shone brightly to provide ideal conditions for enjoying the
outdoors.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My luggage included two
bikes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 137%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><span id="docs-internal-guid-b4328e34-7fff-83f0-a4ad-19c5bb5a4c73" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="border: medium none; display: inline-block; height: 240px; overflow: hidden; width: 320px;"><img height="240" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xxCbdy7mDGOD3qrMC0_adHEV_y01zSCyJvHQ2DEKDELUHrL6s1U8StJrtq_BVV10YF_garUxaYwFhnEAiEXSmUz6jMJRUTH9ccLGfQOtEGk_VlSR3QgFdtJEgD681QRozFEXb7L4" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-top: 0px;" width="320" /></span></span> </span><o:p></o:p></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><o:p></o:p></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 137%;">The unanimous decision to steer clear
of foreign resorts again this summer was endorsed by loch to glen sunshine
closer to home.<o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 137%;">To get into the holiday spirit, we
spent our first full day on the southern tip of the peninsula at Kilbride Bay
beach (3).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Also known as Ostel Bay, this
"jewel in the crown of Argyll's secret coast" with its southerly
aspect out to the Isle of Arran is where the the Kyles of Bute intersect with
Loch Fyne.<o:p></o:p></span></span></p><p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0cm; margin-left: 11.0pt; margin-right: 11.0pt; margin-top: 0cm; margin: 0cm 11pt; text-align: center;"><img height="240" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/ApsTaSvTPSQBmnuhKPQgI7J1Z3_4EcfysEJgVxGJiWbrIDWB_C6zUYj2_qmSq6NQ1-kOcobWzLSIrv-PyPH-qxRMUEJJcVRgKa6QN3yox8jpo9oabPR0VWrz1hVSvZhkPWoDQ83a" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; margin-left: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left; white-space: pre-wrap;" width="320" /><span style="font-family: inherit; text-align: left;"> </span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 137%;">Two of our group cycled from our
Ormidale base along the impressively smooth single-track and lightly-trafficked
roads to get there.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Ascents and descents
galore.<o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><u><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 137%;">Places of interest<o:p></o:p></span></u></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 137%;">Allow me to present a few examples of
other beauty spots that we visited.<o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 36pt; mso-list: l3 level1 lfo4; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">●<span style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-language-override: normal; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size-adjust: none; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span></span><!--[endif]--><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Lachlans Castle</span></i><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 137%;">Perched on the north-eastern shore of
the glass-like and tranquil Loch Fyne, this 15th century monument (4) marks the
seat of Clan McLachlan, one of Scoland's best known family names.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A plaque reminds visitors that the clan is
descended from Lachlan Mór who migrated from Ireland to Scotland in the 11th
century.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 120%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span id="docs-internal-guid-86e3a74e-7fff-0a21-1bef-90cfb6189a89"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="border: medium none; display: inline-block; height: 351px; overflow: hidden; width: 468px;"><img height="351" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/LjY_FBmSXilKucFB4oOMUZFr_dMLFRJReJgd25W4yPe2nyDviqWgk5tfvn7w9bHDhBMvPtXn7_qkYYxDMzHL-BHbLP5tc2mvy3vsDZju-XM263vm8xU7jTO-GHEsNblU-eYk0MbW" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-top: 0px;" width="468" /></span></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 137%;">Like the McSorley surname, it derives
from the vikings, Lachlan being the Scots and Irish Gaelic for a Dane.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 120%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span id="docs-internal-guid-8e55e0e8-7fff-1f50-f150-76cb1c28ad67"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="border: medium none; display: inline-block; height: 351px; overflow: hidden; width: 263px;"><img height="351" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/v0X6uHE_fRp8zcefn6U98Fuk85E16iiEb75XM9KM_kb6tTUVJMBIdM73A5VxMnj6aakBfSxuMQcM1R8uIIQFbuJVmf8xQAIJQ9MTUE1tJ_ub0mLCR_G58Le-y0DFowCApQSLovbr" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-top: 0px;" width="263" /></span></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 137%;">The nearby medieval Kilmorie Chapel
contains the graves of an array of Maclachlan clan chiefs.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> Lachlan Maclachlan of Maclachlan at al underlines a continuation of the line to the nth degree. </span>Much of the tantalising path around the shore
to the Castle is across a special boardwalk, something like our Cuilcagh
walkway in County Fermanagh, only shorter.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Well worth a visit. <o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 36pt; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo5; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">●<span style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-language-override: normal; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size-adjust: none; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span></span><!--[endif]--><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Bute</span></i><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 137%;">No visit to Scotland is complete
without an island trip.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Fortunately for
us, the ferry across the Firth of Clyde to our nearest candidate, the Isle of
Bute, was located next to Colintraive a short distance from our Tighnabruaich
house.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Having recently passed on a
tweed coat labelled "Little Beaut" made on Bute and purchased by my
mother for our eldest daughter, this heirloom promoted the trip to obligatory. <o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0cm; margin-left: 11.0pt; margin-right: 11.0pt; margin-top: 0cm; margin: 0cm 11pt; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; text-align: left;"> </span><img height="240" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/EPkBa32A7hDSiK39nTG-gPBZgiEVvT5dL8xiZqT3FSni2ifZo_hWVu1o1_hrEQlDV0ABTlQ7VDgQpWYMvinuirEbQzCJtR7S-Yfszs8UkMpdbnQECNO1jUgQ-CntjmxOz7O7Foue" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; margin-left: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left; white-space: pre-wrap;" width="320" /></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 137%;">The island's capital, Rothesay, is a
short drive south of the entry point of Rhubodach. I'd read that Rothesay has
been a traditional destination for Glasgwegians going back to Victorian times.
This year, perhaps aided by pandemic limitations, the town had a busy vibe with
restaurants and ice-cream shops doing a roaring trade.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 137%;">Rothesay features in a recent Times
article (5) listing it as one of 20 of "the UK's finest spa
towns."<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Its attraction began as a
popular 19th century resort for workers from Glasgow who came to swim in the
Clyde estuary.<o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 137%;">On which point, my son related to me
Billy Connolly's story that the reason for Rothesay's palm trees was to convince urban
Scottish visitors that they were visiting the most exotic of climes and could
be in a Caribbean resort.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Why argue with
a good yarn, even shorn of the expletives.<o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 137%;">One of its landmark buildings is a
Victorian "Gentlemens Public Lavatory."<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is like a museum piece of best quality
design, especially internally with decorative ceramic tiles.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Unsurprisingly it has won accolodes for
architectural preservation.<o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0cm; margin-left: 11.0pt; margin-right: 11.0pt; margin-top: 0cm; margin: 0cm 11pt; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; text-align: left;"> </span><img height="320" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/R4Z3B2Jl7N2xRLr7tqvjU7f9HtrIDxX4uYe4P9Ii7UuWCN01-g4G_ZDcIGi4hhNi0tkzyqOQA4X3deCL5R2CVTHM8phc4yoUlkvEHzuBVi3J3osAWorzOP0i_Ij-AMQdKcm5KZx-" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; margin-left: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left; white-space: pre-wrap;" width="295" /></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 137%;">Beyond the capital, we spent a lovely
day admiring the island's scenery and beautiful beaches.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0cm; margin-left: 11.0pt; margin-right: 11.0pt; margin-top: 0cm; margin: 0cm 11pt; text-align: center;"><span id="docs-internal-guid-65e51d18-7fff-8e4a-a288-685c711b65d8"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="border: medium none; display: inline-block; height: 240px; overflow: hidden; width: 320px;"><img height="240" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/U0fjoY5yfj03lKjAtUnT8wV4Oohu1xiSX-9UtnBkWnFidfx_YhrTC4FX4LqihGTSvz0uBlGqlGl4P45Q-NaZ3sbQMvWFJwYijL-CTPVlvEILVsbDtY0ynkGcLBw2gXA5XnWbJAbc" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-top: 0px;" width="320" /></span></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><o:p> </o:p></span><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">●<span style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-language-override: normal; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size-adjust: none; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span></span><!--[endif]--><i style="font-family: inherit; mso-bidi-font-style: normal; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Ben More Botanic Garden</span></i></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 137%;">This imposing 120 acre park lies at
the gateway to Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The first thing that grabbed my attention was
the avenue of giant Californian redwoods.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>As we wandered our way through a myriad of paths, we entered a Japanese
garden, we saw the most colourful displays of flowering summer trees and all
sorts of ferns.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We breathed in natural
fragrences including sweet yellow jasmimum.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span><o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0cm; margin-left: 11.0pt; margin-right: 11.0pt; margin-top: 0cm; margin: 0cm 11pt; text-align: center;"><span id="docs-internal-guid-00ea7000-7fff-aa2d-1b88-688562f6787f"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="border: medium none; display: inline-block; height: 320px; overflow: hidden; width: 240px;"><img height="320" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/UttbKTTPu6_cBmngCaBgXeiqxlLdRaujOtE_es3qTrFnlQBtZbTI4aa6KPjTVx3wHP4K4yw1HN23bv-z8Lz7gmTHXIe-6Ta51ysTJ_kfa3hiSnm_wpa3Bq7YGrjoYb-XcCDjy4f2" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-top: 0px;" width="240" /></span></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 137%;">Refreshments in the well-stocked cafe
provided a rewarding end-of-visit treat.<o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 36pt; mso-list: l2 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">●<span style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-language-override: normal; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size-adjust: none; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span></span><!--[endif]--><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Lochgoilhead</span></i><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 137%;">Another beautiful walk, signed as a
pilgrims route and part of the 15 mile Cowal Way between Portavadie and
Inveruglas, it links Loch Fyne to Loch Lomond.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span><o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0cm; margin-left: 11.0pt; margin-right: 11.0pt; margin-top: 0cm; margin: 0cm 11pt; text-align: center;"><span id="docs-internal-guid-7c5f54b5-7fff-d077-aa60-3034047f95f0"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="border: medium none; display: inline-block; height: 320px; overflow: hidden; width: 240px;"><img height="320" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/9wRq_dMBSQH_wvNraYKOrNnjaU4ENOsQA8474CxlxugoIY9IoKbPCQlGFP_BTvoYn-UnEd_H3SkXarN020Uurc3NB-tZMYXsgKqo_6PSmNqZ0kY1Qqzcj-KM3fkB3eVsSJbVX1yL" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-top: 0px;" width="240" /></span></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt;">Scottish wildlife never ceases to
impress, on this occasion smaller specimens.</span><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt; mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt;">I saw a sign about the presence of red squirrels, just as at Ben More
previously; and, to me anyway, the sight of an
illuminescent dragonfly busily dancing along a small stream while repeatedly
dipping its tail into the water (6) was a </span><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt;">privilege</span> . Glad I managed to capture the flight on video.<br /></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0cm; margin-left: 11.0pt; margin-right: 11.0pt; margin-top: 0cm; margin: 0cm 11pt; text-align: center;"><span id="docs-internal-guid-44289c77-7fff-eb54-04d9-8995f47f64e2"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="border: medium none; display: inline-block; height: 320px; overflow: hidden; width: 277px;"><img height="320" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/iSVvdDKfolHzNcK4KLFBKBURcKqtQqIh57dIDxNrgtTGlLtBOxOEe2TIoMtPB1H0aU-bD-xb4g0gxlmQ2nbnqIRkFUB5O2OrjIzxUeNB08jaFgDu-zm7dDcAz-Xkp2UDaQtmFzlI" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-top: 0px;" width="277" /></span></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 137%;">The drive to Lochgoilhead took us
down the very steep and aptly named Hell's Glen, popular with cyclists not
least because of the smooth road surface.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We returned by turning right uphill via an alternative yet equally
scenic drive.<o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 137%;">It's worth acknowledging that
most roads throughout Argyll and Bute, both A-roads and the many single-track
roads are well-maintained.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One presumes
that the municipality accords a high priority to its infrastructure.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Could one reason be, apart from tourism, to
facilitate the safe passage of its logging trucks to their markets? <o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 137%; mso-bidi-font-family: Cardo; mso-fareast-font-family: Cardo;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>⦁<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Bunaw and Taynuilt</span><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 137%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 137%;">The next day we drove alongside Loch Awe
and along the Pass of Brander to see a unique piece of Scotland's industrial
archaeology.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Bunawe Iron Furnace (7)
owes its origins in 1753 to the development of a support operation for
England's iron industry related to Scotland's forestry.<o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0cm; margin-left: 11.0pt; margin-right: 11.0pt; margin-top: 0cm; margin: 0cm 11pt; text-align: center;"><span id="docs-internal-guid-03845f8a-7fff-072f-f9e9-315c54bef935"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="border: medium none; display: inline-block; height: 240px; overflow: hidden; width: 320px;"><img height="240" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-uuKsR8JyD-UQoKM3q7ZXygTvieMyKHskArHLQxyn0WAvyNU9dS2gaGsq7z-i0RitZouixBWovJsRskPj7cVTAZYFUw_wUXHWkV4uujVn4W6xr00Gk_uEhVjaGWjxXNtPaAv7dWa" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-top: 0px;" width="320" /></span></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">In addition
to a range of excavated buildings on the main site, the pier across the road on
Loch Etive was the exit point for Bunawe's production to places like Cumbria.</span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 137%;">The nearby pretty village of Taynuilt
merits a visit if only because it is home to the best tearooms (8) encountered
in our two weeks of touring this area.<o:p></o:p></span></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 137%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 137%; mso-bidi-font-family: Cardo; mso-fareast-font-family: Cardo;">⦁<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Lochgilphead
and Crinan</span><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 137%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 137%;">The longest trip we made from
Inveraray was to visit the western coastal village of Crinan which faces the
Sound of Jura and the Isle of Jura.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>What
a magnificent setting even without mentioning its impressive working canal
which links Crinan Loch with Loch Gilp across the neck of the Mull of
Kintyre.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This acts as a sea to sea
short-cut for yachting traffic which navigate through a series of locks
operated by dedicated experts.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Not a
canal boat in sight.<o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0cm; margin-left: 11.0pt; margin-right: 11.0pt; margin-top: 0cm; margin: 0cm 11pt; text-align: center;"><span id="docs-internal-guid-0a2448d4-7fff-478a-f877-5e6419abe442"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="border: medium none; display: inline-block; height: 240px; overflow: hidden; width: 320px;"><img height="240" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/54MWsj3ub0HoU63p5O88aovgRhOpjvwL65bd9g0I7ddaIz0JfIWyobDfZ2V7CdQw7t1ctQLZNKk50tM-YaXwfUAWA2uS2yEg2IA3U3lSrNNyZpib-kzw9HtP5573_0wpX7ZOu4lD" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-top: 0px;" width="320" /></span></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt;">Crinan is also home to an impressive
Puffer Steamboat built in 1943 as one of a fleet of 100 inshore vessels
originally built to help with the war effort.</span><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt; mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt;">VIC32 (9) can be chartered for 5-day holiday cruises.</span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 137%;">Apart from a 6.2 mile tow-path along
the canal,<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Crinan also has a shorter
hike behind the pier up through the Celtic Rainforest (10) of ancient native
trees.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They hold rare lichens, mosses,
liverworts and fungi found nowhere else in the world. <o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt;">Crinan is a wonderful setting to
enjoy a sea swim and a tea-break on a sunny afternoon.</span><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt; mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt;">I owe a debt of gratitude to my navigator
wife for sensing the beauty and interest of Crinan as a great place to visit.</span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0cm; margin-left: 11.0pt; margin-right: 11.0pt; margin-top: 0cm; margin: 0cm 11pt; text-align: center;"><span id="docs-internal-guid-5e86f919-7fff-6c4d-7b33-bfdac1ecc2aa"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="border: medium none; display: inline-block; height: 320px; overflow: hidden; width: 240px;"><img height="320" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/ttPXRwpOO2YTAkmK29Vz0mt1883RvQKOowdjjJB3dajgdeN5T9JOYojnHJqg4vqGAkuzyvoQISd9QVomJQw2o_iRjGj0c476QU1TMTL7NQyqEsWXI0GbETaj3FtUabNZ4b5U40LZ" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-top: 0px;" width="240" /></span></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 36pt; mso-list: l4 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">●<span style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-language-override: normal; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size-adjust: none; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span></span><!--[endif]--><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Inveraray Castle and Dun na Cuaiche</span></i><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 137%;">Less than half a mile from our wee
hoose sits "one of Scotland's finest stately homes," the 230 year old
Inveraray Castle (11).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is the
ancestral home of the Dukes of Argyll, chiefs of the clan Campbell.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Castle's attractions will wait for a wet
day.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>With the weather being so good, we
explored the estate's grounds and walks.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span><o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 137%;">A monument at the side of the Castle
commemorates the execution in 1685 of 17 leaders of Clan Campbell by the
Marquis of Atholl.<o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 137%;">A little further along, we stumbled
on the fantastic 50-minute climb to Dùn na Cuaiche, (12) translated from the
Gaelic to the Cuckoo's fortress.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
views from this hilltop watchtower over Loch Fyne and Inveraray really are
panoramic. <o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0cm; margin-left: 11.0pt; margin-right: 11.0pt; margin-top: 0cm; margin: 0cm 11pt; text-align: center;"><span id="docs-internal-guid-0f3d1015-7fff-8ff5-df46-4ee81dc687a9"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="border: medium none; display: inline-block; height: 240px; overflow: hidden; width: 320px;"><img height="240" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/UMN3V2S4JKPZBCWxVWdXYzkr5q7Fjb5cVlnmEJHs3n9KJ2wFawKOMfFU0GIpoij3hv2pthatofFeYTd3Ad37n4yc2jjwAciZTYJ2AUHsEOp-MJFv0IVPT28swqS6xXzciHe2W-dt" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-top: 0px;" width="320" /></span></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0cm; margin-left: 11.0pt; margin-right: 11.0pt; margin-top: 0cm; margin: 0cm 11pt; text-align: center;"><span id="docs-internal-guid-0a15d23e-7fff-a019-83a4-19ef276fee5c"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="border: medium none; display: inline-block; height: 320px; overflow: hidden; width: 240px;"><img height="320" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lQcEGikhJLZaqCa-A-xPaGVRIukPKMmdT0CkdxTHSrssOcvMiIATNGkZmyEaxN9AJ2_B7VK4OA7E6aJYHxmM_CUmNRbMurzIpp8-YehvX0RDV0Vwm6PD0L6jDMA_Fb4TCQHKpvLO" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-top: 0px;" width="240" /></span></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal"><u style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 137%;">Culinary excellence</span></u></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 137%;">After living and travelling around so
many lochs over two hectic weeks, the local seafood deserves special
mention.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The best breakfast out was my
succulent kippers at the George Hotel Inverary;<o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0cm; margin-left: 11.0pt; margin-right: 11.0pt; margin-top: 0cm; margin: 0cm 11pt; text-align: center;"><span id="docs-internal-guid-ac7539ed-7fff-c06f-b35f-fece42e3f41d"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="border: medium none; display: inline-block; height: 320px; overflow: hidden; width: 240px;"><img height="320" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/weRbub9Nbt2hIWUZ9AqERXmcbKDHM462juJVfNWk9h_ztzI519Knv_jtej8oW-RicltvQydPcax8jra7e7W-3yXrvj5przqpwYu-YY23T3gi89vJqFtARv3jsT9JpzwBzCz_VBES" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-top: 0px;" width="240" /></span></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><o:p> </o:p></span><span style="font-family: inherit;">and</span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 137%;">the best dinners out were provided by
the legendary Loch Fyne Oyster Bar on the north-west side of the loch (13); and
by the Samphire restaurant in Inveraray (14).<o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0cm; margin-left: 11.0pt; margin-right: 11.0pt; margin-top: 0cm; margin: 0cm 11pt; text-align: center;"><span id="docs-internal-guid-b90fc740-7fff-e42d-7521-f1c4e4ebfc9f"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="border: medium none; display: inline-block; height: 400px; overflow: hidden; width: 300px;"><img height="400" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_-dT2u3R5FcYpHb3QbKwHEAepRxILvNkkm9Rmy5NSTdgVWRItpfM7ll4kAwR2wEXJd3B2tGiUxcxLvPoapijp9Cy5jnZnGnFemaKvpU72l-87zX2Vyo2EY_CRq8FZVWubkArrYyr=w305-h400" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-top: 0px;" width="305" /></span></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 120%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 120%;">Just as, for example, tiramisu in the
Dolomites differs wonderfully in every establishment, the same applies to
home-made chowder in Argyll's fish restaurants.</span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 120%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 120%;"> </span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><u><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 137%;">Conclusion<o:p></o:p></span></u></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 137%;">"Haste ye back" goes
without saying.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 137%;">Apart from revisiting these places,
there are others that we failed to explore.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Top of that list is Kilmartin Glen just north of Crinan with its Jura
aspect.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Our guidebook (15) says that
Kilmartin contains over 800 archaeological monuments within a six-mile
radius.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It adds that the Glen was once
the heart of the ancient Irish Gaelic kingdom of Dál Riada (16) which - as we
all know - includes the most scenic parts of north County Antrim.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 137%;">I recall a lecture by an academic at
Queen's University Belfast who explained that it was Fergus Mór MacEarc (17),
the head of the Irish Dálriada, who brought the Gaelic language and customs
across to Scotland in the fifth century, the Irish Scotii people.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 137%;">At this point I am reminded of
another Billy Connolly story.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>His
explanation for claiming that the Irish and Scots are all mad is that we have
exchanged populations with alarming regularity over many centuries.</span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 137%;">©Michael McSorley 2021<o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 137%;">References:-<o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 137%;">1</span><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 137%;">.</span><span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 137%;">https://www.sykescottages.co.uk/cottage/Argyll-The-Isles-Ormidale/Ormidale-House-982133.html?utm_source=enterprise&utm_medium=service_email&utm_campaign=property&utm_content=link)<o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 137%;">2. </span><a href="https://www.blogger.com/"><span color="windowtext" style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 137%; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>https://positivehotels.co.uk/places/united-kingdom/argyll/inveraray/luxury-hotels/the-george-hotel-inveraray/</span></a><span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 137%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 137%;">3.</span><a href="https://www.blogger.com/"><span color="windowtext" style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 137%; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;"> https://www.wildaboutargyll.co.uk/whats-new/blogs/visit-beautiful-ostel-bay-but-please-park-sensibly-or-better-still-cycle-there/</span></a><span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 137%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 137%;">4.</span><a href="https://www.blogger.com/"><span color="windowtext" style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 137%; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;">
http://www.oldcastlelachlan.com/visit</span></a><span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 137%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 137%;">5. The Times Weekend Travel 17 July
2021 Staycation escapes. "Take a dip into the UK's finest spa towns"<o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 137%;">6.</span><a href="https://www.blogger.com/"><span color="windowtext" style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 137%; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;">
https://british-dragonflies.org.uk/species/golden-ringed-dragonfly/</span></a><span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 137%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 137%;">7. Bunawe Iron Furnace</span><a href="https://www.blogger.com/"><span color="windowtext" style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 137%; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;"> https://www.historicenvironment.scot/visit-a-place/places/bonawe-historic-iron-furnace/</span></a><span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 137%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 137%;">8. Robin's Nest Taynuilt</span><a href="https://www.blogger.com/"><span color="windowtext" style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 137%; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;">
https://www.robinsnesttearoom.co.uk/</span></a><span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 137%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 137%;">9. Puffer Steamboat Holidays</span><a href="https://www.blogger.com/"><span color="windowtext" style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 137%; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;">
https://cruisesinscotland.com/boat/vic-32/</span></a><span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 137%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 137%;">10. Crinan Wood</span><a href="https://www.blogger.com/"><span color="windowtext" style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 137%; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;">
https://www.woodlandtrust.org.uk/visiting-woods/woods/crinan-wood/</span></a><span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 137%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 137%;">11. Inverary Castle </span><a href="https://www.blogger.com/"><span color="windowtext" style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 137%; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>https://www.visitscotland.com/info/see-do/inveraray-castle-p255441</span></a><span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 137%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 137%;">12. Dun na Cuaiche</span><a href="https://www.blogger.com/"><span color="windowtext" style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 137%; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;">
https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/argyll/dun-na-cuaiche.shtml</span></a><span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 137%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 137%;">13.</span><a href="https://www.blogger.com/"><span color="windowtext" style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 137%; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;">
https://www.lochfyne.com/</span></a><span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 137%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 137%;">14.</span><a href="https://www.blogger.com/"><span color="windowtext" style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 137%; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;">
https://samphireseafood.com/</span></a><span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 137%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 137%;">15. Holiday West Highland Summer 2021<o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 137%;">16. Dál Riada</span><a href="https://www.blogger.com/"><span color="windowtext" style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 137%; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;">
https://www.britannica.com/place/Dalriada</span></a><span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 137%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 137%;">17.</span><a href="https://www.blogger.com/"><span color="windowtext" style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 137%; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;">
https://www.geni.com/people/Fergus-Mor-Annals-of-Tigernach/6000000008608213167</span></a></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 137%; margin-bottom: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span color="windowtext" style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 137%; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;">Acknowledgement for technical assistance to the web design business - https://retype.uk/</span><span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 137%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>Michael McSorleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06352593190581090069noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1873197369166122223.post-53253207404256599532019-06-08T08:26:00.001-07:002019-06-09T11:51:38.800-07:00Prague Vienna and Budapest <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">What better time to visit three of Europe’s great cities as the UK strives to divorce itself from the continent’s precious union. </span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Departing in a group of twenty from all parts of Ireland to
join a similar-sized group from Scotland, we anticipated a spring-time escape
to celebrate castles and palaces, cathedrals and spas, cakes and
cocktails in the eastern heart of our beautiful continent.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">We organised this holiday in the pre-internet fashion by
booking through a travel company, for a change, instead of doing it ourselves. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>We had bought foreign holidays on two previous
occasions with the same company,<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn1" name="_ednref1" style="mso-endnote-id: edn1;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">[i]</span></span></span></span></a>
both of which were good experiences. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>Four
years ago they had taken us to Russia when we were guided around important
sites in Moscow and St Petersburg,<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn2" name="_ednref2" style="mso-endnote-id: edn2;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">[ii]</span></span></span></span></a>
with five days in each city; and two years ago, we availed of their expertise on
a five day visit to Iceland.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">On this occasion, we spent four days (B&B in 4 star
hotels) in Prague,<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn3" name="_ednref3" style="mso-endnote-id: edn3;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">[iii]</span></span></span></span></a>
two in Vienna,<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn4" name="_ednref4" style="mso-endnote-id: edn4;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">[iv]</span></span></span></span></a>
and four in Budapest.<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn5" name="_ednref5" style="mso-endnote-id: edn5;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">[v]</span></span></span></span></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"> </span></span></span></span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">1 <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><u>Prague</u></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "symbol"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Our first full day took us on a guided walk
of the city centre.<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn6" name="_ednref6" style="mso-endnote-id: edn6;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">[vi]</span></span></span></span></a> <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Hradcany, the hill topped by the UNESCO World Heritage 10-14th century Prague
Castle, was the start. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At its centre
sits the monumental 14<sup>th</sup> century St Vitus Cathedral, the world’s
seventh largest cathedral and the biggest in the Czech Republic. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Its twin spires rise from a majestic Gothic
structure that was only completed in 1929, including Art Nouveau stained glass.
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_fe6u3Y_kSuMGCQjB531ICIktTnB49VZECCVDDAy5bD-lXxJ-SN0gIgRqN-1AlpvxkyIZXTRdC6uW1qhCAKvwzeUmvlboeQLS9x90eR_kX3iMIY5xTLS8iZXAv3LbBUq0ADkfv6lTI-M/s1600/2019+05+14+PragueCastle+0003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="960" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_fe6u3Y_kSuMGCQjB531ICIktTnB49VZECCVDDAy5bD-lXxJ-SN0gIgRqN-1AlpvxkyIZXTRdC6uW1qhCAKvwzeUmvlboeQLS9x90eR_kX3iMIY5xTLS8iZXAv3LbBUq0ADkfv6lTI-M/s320/2019+05+14+PragueCastle+0003.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Prague Castle Guards</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi6sf85qLLG43WYGYs6wXq1XRLsN3Lxgd3fzDdMy0chSUSif8d3OVX2UJUVo8Aym8P-VieYmS1D6_ulPl9pckPzlLBUWrPI21Rd79ACkEZDjAg_t-Q9ZK5pv64O7eGC0FoKTYah-XGrGw/s1600/2019+05+14+PragueCastleStVitusCathed+0001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi6sf85qLLG43WYGYs6wXq1XRLsN3Lxgd3fzDdMy0chSUSif8d3OVX2UJUVo8Aym8P-VieYmS1D6_ulPl9pckPzlLBUWrPI21Rd79ACkEZDjAg_t-Q9ZK5pv64O7eGC0FoKTYah-XGrGw/s320/2019+05+14+PragueCastleStVitusCathed+0001.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">St Vitus Cathedral Prague</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB62EzK5xapdVj4qKIgFLSZr3V-_WKnQT2h1i9Kpx9w5DyG-Q_bPpAejzcN_o07buctlS9xhxiZV5DGIctafjkjQrBOIgHtgM6FOOOcUYxuCgMr6JozGNTvnxIzUBH8sJPiqGMVS7mEL8/s1600/2019+05+14+StVitusCathed+0002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB62EzK5xapdVj4qKIgFLSZr3V-_WKnQT2h1i9Kpx9w5DyG-Q_bPpAejzcN_o07buctlS9xhxiZV5DGIctafjkjQrBOIgHtgM6FOOOcUYxuCgMr6JozGNTvnxIzUBH8sJPiqGMVS7mEL8/s320/2019+05+14+StVitusCathed+0002.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">St Vitus Cathedral stained glass & artwork</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Afterwards we descended via Mala Strana
(Little Quarter) to cross the 1357 Karluv Most (Charles Bridge) which is guarded
by 30 saintly statues.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The oldest is St
Ioano Nepomuceno (St John of Nepomuk).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEQaoCek7pmitWDR0hB_6hLqEWLShZSab0bk8ukqMhbsyXl8RaB5klO8Q0QZN7waCvFNMR0R3hqWccvcFE9SU0rfV5V3egssKWntuF2fHFtUOu1E6qZHm4WzJE2gx1DAsGT-xUfzHQ2iE/s1600/2019+05+14+CharlesBridgeStJohnNepomuk.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="545" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEQaoCek7pmitWDR0hB_6hLqEWLShZSab0bk8ukqMhbsyXl8RaB5klO8Q0QZN7waCvFNMR0R3hqWccvcFE9SU0rfV5V3egssKWntuF2fHFtUOu1E6qZHm4WzJE2gx1DAsGT-xUfzHQ2iE/s320/2019+05+14+CharlesBridgeStJohnNepomuk.jpg" width="181" /></a></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The day’s highlight was the fairytale-like 15<sup>th</sup> Old Townhall
century Astronomical Clock chiming at midday in Staromestske Namesti (Old Town Square)
and featuring a parade of moving apostles peeping out at the crowds below and moving</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHE215vQWQAInFz7xdX-cpDZ8_pOzNb03t4-KIb75TYMZ2QdJsHpP5T7MD8lpUC1fM_h_QQtT-jy-julsWvg_RfHjUtkTmOgnl4bCslMaAGYshzrDQL-icVVEraZbI3nw1BmLhVO6H6AY/s1600/2019+05+14+AstronomClock.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="842" data-original-width="1052" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHE215vQWQAInFz7xdX-cpDZ8_pOzNb03t4-KIb75TYMZ2QdJsHpP5T7MD8lpUC1fM_h_QQtT-jy-julsWvg_RfHjUtkTmOgnl4bCslMaAGYshzrDQL-icVVEraZbI3nw1BmLhVO6H6AY/s320/2019+05+14+AstronomClock.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> like magic puppets past two upper windows. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For a different perspective, we viewed the city’s
sights from a boat in the romantic darkness of that same evening.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_cYFZsz2ps7-3VOA2c5KsnRRO5lBhKLUAWSTZUuXxaESXB03kSk5BdIsN0cJ0IJrHDuMMxprqfQuW9-1k0HI8ofswwjb93OGuiC8dYVKlxECV-CA3QUtf7jvQGtWQ5cUoELR8zcoS0Vc/s1600/2019+05+14+CharlesBridgeNight+0006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="960" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_cYFZsz2ps7-3VOA2c5KsnRRO5lBhKLUAWSTZUuXxaESXB03kSk5BdIsN0cJ0IJrHDuMMxprqfQuW9-1k0HI8ofswwjb93OGuiC8dYVKlxECV-CA3QUtf7jvQGtWQ5cUoELR8zcoS0Vc/s400/2019+05+14+CharlesBridgeNight+0006.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Charles Bridge Prague nightime view from Vltava</td></tr>
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</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Next day we travelled an hour out of town to
visit Cesky Sternberk a Castle in rural Bohemia, a National Trust-like property
which has been occupied by the Sternberk family for 780 years.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> <table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib0h-L78fU4BIP6bjwt7H9flGJCKpF-GAPw8iWE0OAntejqVOjw0Hgc1ytrJ0umRQBN3tobRqwDc5J_nlrZhWG5uzo9LQIPpzKO8Cfc_-i3Yto6UDlUihEFb-ozN0ym0yaeW2WSfTfNvA/s1600/2019+05+15+SternbergCastle+0001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib0h-L78fU4BIP6bjwt7H9flGJCKpF-GAPw8iWE0OAntejqVOjw0Hgc1ytrJ0umRQBN3tobRqwDc5J_nlrZhWG5uzo9LQIPpzKO8Cfc_-i3Yto6UDlUihEFb-ozN0ym0yaeW2WSfTfNvA/s200/2019+05+15+SternbergCastle+0001.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chapel in Sternberk Castle</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipIKp8Ro0xoX38E7jCnYrdI6jD0ae7NeszssznX-nz8PrMVz2TUOS9xEXYBI93LKIh7ieHTGsE3q96T9up-04Nb1kUMQyEG-w__1fcaVuVmVOyGrpWmyPTtWS3s5UQf1k5AryMV_iBsxQ/s1600/2019+05+15+SternberkCastle+0002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipIKp8Ro0xoX38E7jCnYrdI6jD0ae7NeszssznX-nz8PrMVz2TUOS9xEXYBI93LKIh7ieHTGsE3q96T9up-04Nb1kUMQyEG-w__1fcaVuVmVOyGrpWmyPTtWS3s5UQf1k5AryMV_iBsxQ/s200/2019+05+15+SternberkCastle+0002.jpg" width="150" /></a> </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> That night we attended a performance of Czech
folk music and dance on the outskirts of Prague. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For me, the highlight was witnessing the
musicians playing the traditional cimbalom instrument.<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn7" name="_ednref7" style="mso-endnote-id: edn7;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">[vii]</span></span></span></span></a>
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Their repertoire even included
a rendition from Smetana’s Má Vlast (My Country), his gorgeous paean to Bohemia's great river, Vltava (The Moldau).</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwHPk_JfobCgWdYj2pJ2UskOsCTKlXqbFio_vG_y_x9MhTrGi6j8AhZU1zQVzjnnlc-PJ741IGQm-Tsl-3j23zAeNTFCT2yXtvXTvAx172lZ8KPN3WIx-4x2eDDDVcrMTw57OpZIFzBa0/s1600/2019+05+15+Cimbalom+CzeckFolkGroup+0004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="960" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwHPk_JfobCgWdYj2pJ2UskOsCTKlXqbFio_vG_y_x9MhTrGi6j8AhZU1zQVzjnnlc-PJ741IGQm-Tsl-3j23zAeNTFCT2yXtvXTvAx172lZ8KPN3WIx-4x2eDDDVcrMTw57OpZIFzBa0/s400/2019+05+15+Cimbalom+CzeckFolkGroup+0004.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div>
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</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Our third and final full day in Prague, being
a free day, provided the opportunity to discover the city for ourselves without
a guide. We began by taking the metro eight stops from Vysocanska to Narodni
Trida – fast and punctual. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Doing this
unaided makes you feel more like a local than a tourist. Finding your own way
around, likewise, boosts confidence by compelling you to concentrate and
learn.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The places we decided to see were
both on the opposite side of the Vltava. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Instead of jostling with the crowds on Charles
Bridge (named, incidentally, after Charles IV the 14<sup>th</sup> century King
of Bohemia who planned the city’s layout), we now knew to use an alternative
way across the river.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We walked across
the Legii (Legions) Bridge.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Despite its not
earning a mention in either of my newspaper guides to Prague, our priority (because of
our late mothers’ veneration of the Child of Prague) was the handsome 1613
baroque Church of Our Lady Victorious.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It is home to this small 47 cm statue made of wood and covered with
fabric and wax. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirb5g3Dx5UkM2sQrx2u_p51h587E1keexXlpAowNbYXrcWo9GKCCx4Mlz0Yn78R9UaAjyEOro_bNMaSXb23GTqF9x-8kyvd9O2U0KOlDR2G2Gn2I9qDtNgPXKVCYvT3S99QSqWdhJTSn4/s1600/2019+05+16+ChildOfPrague+0002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="777" data-original-width="960" height="259" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirb5g3Dx5UkM2sQrx2u_p51h587E1keexXlpAowNbYXrcWo9GKCCx4Mlz0Yn78R9UaAjyEOro_bNMaSXb23GTqF9x-8kyvd9O2U0KOlDR2G2Gn2I9qDtNgPXKVCYvT3S99QSqWdhJTSn4/s320/2019+05+16+ChildOfPrague+0002.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Our map showed that
behind the Church lie the extensive Petrin Gardens which contain what our
guide had called Prague’s own Eiffel Tower.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We could see it tantalisingly from lower levels.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Being a pleasant sunny day a steep uphill
climb beckoned. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The effort is worth the
grunt-work.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Petrin Tower was built in
1891 <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv1diXdNHUAS0JWpLu2SpN3we-HnfHKzVC-4U8-pw4EspptRY5C-zAS9UwQMLtvBrUx2zN8RFieETfZk3laZd0lK9m9tU3BF5Vr8t3lEhirhQ3oeifZTe2cWlaPblYtbF_eeSqm0QMj5o/s1600/2019+05+16+PetrinTower+0002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv1diXdNHUAS0JWpLu2SpN3we-HnfHKzVC-4U8-pw4EspptRY5C-zAS9UwQMLtvBrUx2zN8RFieETfZk3laZd0lK9m9tU3BF5Vr8t3lEhirhQ3oeifZTe2cWlaPblYtbF_eeSqm0QMj5o/s320/2019+05+16+PetrinTower+0002.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Petrin Tower</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
(two years after its Parisian cousin), it is adjoined by Prague City
Museum as well as an 1891 exhibition pavilion with 15 distorting mirrors.<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn8" name="_ednref8" style="mso-endnote-id: edn8;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">[viii]</span></span></span></span></a><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There are other imposing older religious
buildings nearby.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On our way back, after
crossing over the Manesuv (Manes) Bridge we walked around some of the Jewish
Quarter including the Maisel Synagogue as a reminder of the vibrancy of that
culture in Prague before the horrors of World War 2.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We ambled across Jan Palach Square, named in
honour of the 20-year-old student who immolated himself in protest at the 1969 uprising's
military suppression by Russia. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I recall
the impact of that event well being the same age as Palach at the time. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>To revive mind and body, a visit to the Staromestske
(Old Town) restaurant for Czech strudel and pancakes seemed well earned </span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibC99sIPDCJNzCxtAyOJg-eCTkEIKwQIX96Xx3kai_Wx0NDC-xYi_Al2sZt1jd-zEeMFfFtOQmvvguUPg8oPmRS05MexIqe2N7xkZV0t4x7XScqNLgY4_A6Lt97-VrCTQDMp6ki1lHXIY/s1600/2019+05+16+OldTownSquare+0004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="824" data-original-width="960" height="274" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibC99sIPDCJNzCxtAyOJg-eCTkEIKwQIX96Xx3kai_Wx0NDC-xYi_Al2sZt1jd-zEeMFfFtOQmvvguUPg8oPmRS05MexIqe2N7xkZV0t4x7XScqNLgY4_A6Lt97-VrCTQDMp6ki1lHXIY/s320/2019+05+16+OldTownSquare+0004.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">
before
walking to Namesti Republiky metro station and a return trip to Vysocanska and
our nearby hotel.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">2. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><u>Vienna</u></i></span></div>
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<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "symbol"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The coach-trip from Prague to Vienna was
eased with a stop for lunch on the Czech side of the border.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Chvalovice attracts Austrian customers
attracted by a variety of merchandise at prices that are low by their
standards.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It includes casinos and
nightclubs, even bearing a scruffy resemblance to Disneyland.</span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "symbol"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">To help us to get our bearings of Vienna, our
Hungarian guide brought us for a walk to the city centre. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We saw the exterior of the fabulous 19<sup>th</sup>
century State Opera House <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieSkt8NsguwQP5nihn7nJwKaaL5XV3ZvG9FRQu0eKP4dB5wOv_kizML7M-9P9C778jnBGDwwkdGmDSmnisunndCpZTG9YObPv4AbbnMvjAv3RRTEEz-nunE-TrMk_OXHOCIpoV44he8JY/s1600/2019+05+17+ViennaStateOperaHouse.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="960" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieSkt8NsguwQP5nihn7nJwKaaL5XV3ZvG9FRQu0eKP4dB5wOv_kizML7M-9P9C778jnBGDwwkdGmDSmnisunndCpZTG9YObPv4AbbnMvjAv3RRTEEz-nunE-TrMk_OXHOCIpoV44he8JY/s320/2019+05+17+ViennaStateOperaHouse.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At Vienna State Opera</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
(unfortunately with no tour of the sumptuous interior, as
strongly recommended to me by a friend) followed by a visit inside St Stephan’s
Cathedral.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Part Romanesque part Gothic,
it dates to the 14<sup>th</sup> century.<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn9" name="_ednref9" style="mso-endnote-id: edn9;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">[ix]</span></span></span></span></a>
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Composers like Haydn, Mozart and others
have got married in this cathedral, Vivaldi’s funeral was hosted here and also
that of Niki Lauda the racing driver.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxoJsNq0zH3L9ojS-q77FNPswzi5EsTfWI5agCoEJKPO9Z7eXeSTc8XtWiNN5xqxxwx_tJcBvYidc8w8ZFENaeVuOabKzLfj0fPHvL5QfIIyWGeZA7Xz3OpW3O3aASZeWplDFyMPFaGJg/s1600/2019+05+17+Vienna+StStephansCathedral+0002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="960" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxoJsNq0zH3L9ojS-q77FNPswzi5EsTfWI5agCoEJKPO9Z7eXeSTc8XtWiNN5xqxxwx_tJcBvYidc8w8ZFENaeVuOabKzLfj0fPHvL5QfIIyWGeZA7Xz3OpW3O3aASZeWplDFyMPFaGJg/s320/2019+05+17+Vienna+StStephansCathedral+0002.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stephansdom St Stephan's Cathedral</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-family: "symbol"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Next day, we visited the grounds of the
ornate Belvedere Palace.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Its parklands include
a fountain-speckled Baroque garden which runs between the upper and lower parts
of the palace, and a Botanical Garden.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_Ft51H7cdrB__5nW_T4SZ5O64I1nanBcufu223-DMlfS1xKsNuNftUykPo3iGgHx8qBAW8RTn0-yjRUrEnxQUCk5YaHXIIK5N9SZg_QjocJFN-GzMuey7QCD9haXuNKu1_vcH2KrNWuw/s1600/2019+05+18+BotanicalGardenBelvedere+Palace.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="960" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_Ft51H7cdrB__5nW_T4SZ5O64I1nanBcufu223-DMlfS1xKsNuNftUykPo3iGgHx8qBAW8RTn0-yjRUrEnxQUCk5YaHXIIK5N9SZg_QjocJFN-GzMuey7QCD9haXuNKu1_vcH2KrNWuw/s320/2019+05+18+BotanicalGardenBelvedere+Palace.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Botanical Garden Belvedere Palace</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "symbol"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">If only to meet a challenge set by our
youngest daughter, we enjoyed the legendary sachertorte chocolate cake in the Sacher
Hotel’s Cafe Mozart. This is famed as the place where Harry Lime met The Third
Man.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTtmJ8NJWfbm2OKwPFjTLKn0WC8AjRFcIYodt9Y8GvNEjuan6x6uFFd-Hxz4FdN1lZgE8hpLHehlC_YuJqAa6tElIj-_IjuL11EIJzttjj65TniCkr-gINZ2OuBP78bJ5Sue2Ng_opOnE/s1600/2019+05+18+HotelSacher.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="960" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTtmJ8NJWfbm2OKwPFjTLKn0WC8AjRFcIYodt9Y8GvNEjuan6x6uFFd-Hxz4FdN1lZgE8hpLHehlC_YuJqAa6tElIj-_IjuL11EIJzttjj65TniCkr-gINZ2OuBP78bJ5Sue2Ng_opOnE/s320/2019+05+18+HotelSacher.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sachertorte at Hotel Sacher</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "symbol"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">No visit to Vienna would be complete without
a concert of Viennese music. Along with about half of our group, we attended a
performance of works by Mozart and Johann Strauss in the Kursalon Wien with the
Salonorchester Alt Wien – a small orchestra, with a soprano and tenor singing arias and a performance which
received a well-earned standing ovation. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP6INnAF0Xpf-PJcOlzKaP3yo5BFWu-dCTz648hqhqm-leh5PJBOeD6Egqt8aUr72tt_MslGMx5rHMUvVahhjnauV7Hk9zHBgv-1C_PL0-jZv-R1gqFEGUyB-CiLO21Xn8Y_Jo3PECqAE/s1600/2019+05+18+MozartStraussConcert+0001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP6INnAF0Xpf-PJcOlzKaP3yo5BFWu-dCTz648hqhqm-leh5PJBOeD6Egqt8aUr72tt_MslGMx5rHMUvVahhjnauV7Hk9zHBgv-1C_PL0-jZv-R1gqFEGUyB-CiLO21Xn8Y_Jo3PECqAE/s400/2019+05+18+MozartStraussConcert+0001.jpg" width="300" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3mPGw4vWyDfXtz1ArMfLzqQV1TE8L11BUMquTF-5unXsZ5y6Wf-UyQi4K8XqDzQ-mA-y7UOvRluaNoj7zv57qeFop6Za2pl-OFORdBXOaz-B2fBQ8pvy-sRUWcJZSjxUVEs5t89GHSqE/s1600/2019+05+18+MozartStraussConcert+0002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3mPGw4vWyDfXtz1ArMfLzqQV1TE8L11BUMquTF-5unXsZ5y6Wf-UyQi4K8XqDzQ-mA-y7UOvRluaNoj7zv57qeFop6Za2pl-OFORdBXOaz-B2fBQ8pvy-sRUWcJZSjxUVEs5t89GHSqE/s400/2019+05+18+MozartStraussConcert+0002.jpg" width="300" /></a><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><u>3.Budapest</u></i></span></div>
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<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l2 level1 lfo3; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "symbol"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En route to the Hungarian capital, we stopped
in the resplendent town of Gyor.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Its Cathedral
Basilica of the Assumption of Our Lady houses a 40-year-old connection with
Ireland dating back to Oliver Cromwell.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>When the English conqueror expelled Catholic clergy, Bishop Walter Lynch
of Clonfert in County Galway escaped in 1649 with a special artwork, a painting known as the Irish
Tearing Madonna.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Having originally
settled in Vienna, Lynch eventually became the second bishop of Gyor and the miraculous
painting is displayed prominently in the Cathedral.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> In addition a plaque written in Hungarian on Connemara marble sits across the aisle.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8bxJGYJi10-ZL3iZYE6Wbq-10wXZ1OMheZ5QFF-dpUUcdpTkuImcGdHCQCzSurhKVMMzAthTXAy0xqZtOeVluKQLQwz1Xsgt0R2znZvXtNyXHdqSannBv75h3KVOKo1xOqFGnSJ4LokM/s1600/2019+05+19+GyorCathedIrishMadonnaPlaque.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8bxJGYJi10-ZL3iZYE6Wbq-10wXZ1OMheZ5QFF-dpUUcdpTkuImcGdHCQCzSurhKVMMzAthTXAy0xqZtOeVluKQLQwz1Xsgt0R2znZvXtNyXHdqSannBv75h3KVOKo1xOqFGnSJ4LokM/s400/2019+05+19+GyorCathedIrishMadonnaPlaque.jpg" width="300" /></a></span></span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh35Bqbil2HoQtX0iLMlKC8KF4i6ViaTIVnqBLwKSDnQ3GV-CQMaaGlAasrXyYpO0i7hl8225_uYzoLVidcHkP0kJmEgrhUArAo2GUGsOJ3MQlKBIbZpERMnxV7LPALEaOYnOt5P8-qDko/s1600/2019+05+19+GyorCathedral+IrishMadonna+0002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh35Bqbil2HoQtX0iLMlKC8KF4i6ViaTIVnqBLwKSDnQ3GV-CQMaaGlAasrXyYpO0i7hl8225_uYzoLVidcHkP0kJmEgrhUArAo2GUGsOJ3MQlKBIbZpERMnxV7LPALEaOYnOt5P8-qDko/s400/2019+05+19+GyorCathedral+IrishMadonna+0002.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Irish Tearing Madonna, Gyor Cathedral</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A highlight was our trip to the world
coach-driving champions Lázárs Equestrian Park in Domonyvolgy about 35k east of
Budapest.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgetrXY_DBtPjAIojJozBvesFNmO_0U8YeTGHstjBco0IfyHXZTNyZCqIZ-AhknIXeYhyeP5A1lhzqIHICVghk1MMUMCCJSQufslvJrUjiGbUPTpS6C6nrHqq9c_Jj0Ms0VQ5ofRICvgIo/s1600/2019+05+21+LazarsEquestrianPark+0001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="960" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgetrXY_DBtPjAIojJozBvesFNmO_0U8YeTGHstjBco0IfyHXZTNyZCqIZ-AhknIXeYhyeP5A1lhzqIHICVghk1MMUMCCJSQufslvJrUjiGbUPTpS6C6nrHqq9c_Jj0Ms0VQ5ofRICvgIo/s400/2019+05+21+LazarsEquestrianPark+0001.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We were treated to a
magnificent display of Hungarian Nonius and Lipanzammer stallions in dazzling
displays of coach-driving featuring an array of superb horse-handling
expertise. Prior to Lázárs, we had
visited another National Trust-type of property, the baroque Royal Palace
Godollo, the retreat of the Austro-Hungarian monarch Queen Sisi (Elizabeth).<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1LqjUJp-a_fPDi0egaXUQe2Ga5uDx5UZfJG8pzxJkpHx8zrzuvf4eLGQ1lltc-Khc8I-aLF-b2UGHme4t0k40uG2YKcJ-2BHNnxUEEkeZKx_k_gSauT02Y7IvNmG04KH3Sti5VgNa3Qw/s1600/2019+05+21+SisiPalaceGodollo+0003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1LqjUJp-a_fPDi0egaXUQe2Ga5uDx5UZfJG8pzxJkpHx8zrzuvf4eLGQ1lltc-Khc8I-aLF-b2UGHme4t0k40uG2YKcJ-2BHNnxUEEkeZKx_k_gSauT02Y7IvNmG04KH3Sti5VgNa3Qw/s320/2019+05+21+SisiPalaceGodollo+0003.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sisi Palace Godollo</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">No visit to Budapest should exclude bathing
in its monumental thermal pools, dating back to the Ottoman occupation.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One of the eleven listed<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn10" name="_ednref10" style="mso-endnote-id: edn10;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">[x]</span></span></span></span></a>
and the one closest to our hotel (a 15 minute walk from our hotel crossing the
Elizabeth Bridge) is the 500-year-old Rudas Baths. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Under monumental architecture, Rudas contains
an array of pools, from very hot through medium to cool and cold, a cure for all
ailments.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A massage and other treatments
are available.<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn11" name="_ednref11" style="mso-endnote-id: edn11;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">[xi]</span></span></span></span></a> You could spend weeks visiting these
magnificent palaces of health. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXp2Y0CkrFA7VBHUZ24iv_6S4-YLiiNP-D8fs7O9LfO2zmdAO0imUHtT4Rs77zl1yhxrQNWrjSwX2SJGp7nU-OlVjM25bNtHu2xoFkXRZqLiEezMT4qszGVoKtcx0zrrCGCNzfWUBYEX0/s1600/2019+05+23+RudasThermBathsBudapest.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="706" data-original-width="960" height="235" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXp2Y0CkrFA7VBHUZ24iv_6S4-YLiiNP-D8fs7O9LfO2zmdAO0imUHtT4Rs77zl1yhxrQNWrjSwX2SJGp7nU-OlVjM25bNtHu2xoFkXRZqLiEezMT4qszGVoKtcx0zrrCGCNzfWUBYEX0/s320/2019+05+23+RudasThermBathsBudapest.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rudas Thermal Bath</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgthwuPheqHw1UzOUpc2hQqx5aGbhxNwFPBEQYICUxsJYyBgd8gFPZxqLVaFrrXB2UPsHRxYF2MrFfyDaNKpG1cm54M1CKPI16PRtNbVrV203kYF8-rz6bg1Gfm87iSs9l0PNMuY0Ry78/s1600/2019+05+23+RudasThermalBaths+0001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="827" data-original-width="960" height="275" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgthwuPheqHw1UzOUpc2hQqx5aGbhxNwFPBEQYICUxsJYyBgd8gFPZxqLVaFrrXB2UPsHRxYF2MrFfyDaNKpG1cm54M1CKPI16PRtNbVrV203kYF8-rz6bg1Gfm87iSs9l0PNMuY0Ry78/s320/2019+05+23+RudasThermalBaths+0001.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "symbol"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Budapest’s other monuments<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn12" name="_ednref12" style="mso-endnote-id: edn12;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">[xii]</span></span></span></span></a>
included elevated Buda Castle, Szent Istvan (St Stephen) Bazilika, named after the
nation’s founder King Stephen and containing the relic of his right
hand, the Shoes on the Danube memorial to murdered Jews,</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGXKS1kpM-5gDSqqP9XzPqCrDPrIblPFdtjxTFW4lyrQnfOEgkY8YFsm5-5msdBm-fI9aJHcIqaTJpS9uVfNII6oxVWJuMTdQVI0KZOJpouhMF6ncl-Bh2N9UO3zC5gBI4qYvFgEZg6ic/s1600/2019+05+23+ShoesDanubeMemJews.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGXKS1kpM-5gDSqqP9XzPqCrDPrIblPFdtjxTFW4lyrQnfOEgkY8YFsm5-5msdBm-fI9aJHcIqaTJpS9uVfNII6oxVWJuMTdQVI0KZOJpouhMF6ncl-Bh2N9UO3zC5gBI4qYvFgEZg6ic/s320/2019+05+23+ShoesDanubeMemJews.jpg" width="240" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> the biggest synagogue
in Europe, Erzsébet Hid (Elizabeth Bridge), Széchenyi Lánchíd
(Chain Bridge)<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn13" name="_ednref13" style="mso-endnote-id: edn13;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">[xiii]</span></span></span></span></a>
and the adjacent Cave Church </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">excavated from solid rock on the side of Gellert Hill and </span>run by Pauline Order monks.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9zFEY-1wosAzDhWlWyKNatlVDJHDlogacFMeDfp3eNmSnse6Ue3P0KebVx39YsdGK4G1mS2SloQeLIGmd2CISpXUueD-RG8gciXxReqmcw90VazrSTYGGZG1MbNlwvPogxZVOXU7RQEk/s1600/2019+05+20+CaveChurchBudapest.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="878" data-original-width="960" height="292" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9zFEY-1wosAzDhWlWyKNatlVDJHDlogacFMeDfp3eNmSnse6Ue3P0KebVx39YsdGK4G1mS2SloQeLIGmd2CISpXUueD-RG8gciXxReqmcw90VazrSTYGGZG1MbNlwvPogxZVOXU7RQEk/s320/2019+05+20+CaveChurchBudapest.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sziklatemplom, Church by the Rock</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Ten nights away including two days transferring by coach
means that a lot of sight-seeing has to be condensed into a limited amount of words
and time. The careful allocation of precious time, I have to say, is half the
charm of a holiday like this.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Recommendations</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The best restaurant meal was provided by the ornate Múzeum
restaurant (established 1885)<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn14" name="_ednref14" style="mso-endnote-id: edn14;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">[xiv]</span></span></span></span></a>
adjacent to the National Museum in Prague.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For the record, my main
course was roasted pike-perch with spinach and pine-nuts served with a shrimp
sauce and fine herbed potatoes; while my wife had goose leg with warm cabbage
and apple and served with onion smashed potatoes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp916LiP6fGUPXGiszwznnFcQNQIVteq0deMGusL8jbPscbZ_Pa3fOWnXaXwrDXY96CtxiBJErkYzqR5W6cTZcMPobnn5XsxVTFbvEJDeg7ynVvBrDM-gKmjDhHh0FSOOJySgCQBFggvY/s1600/2019+05+20+MuzeumRestaurPrague.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="960" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp916LiP6fGUPXGiszwznnFcQNQIVteq0deMGusL8jbPscbZ_Pa3fOWnXaXwrDXY96CtxiBJErkYzqR5W6cTZcMPobnn5XsxVTFbvEJDeg7ynVvBrDM-gKmjDhHh0FSOOJySgCQBFggvY/s200/2019+05+20+MuzeumRestaurPrague.jpg" width="200" /></a></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I had anticipated relaxing in one of Vienna’s
long-established coffee houses. Perhaps because of our short time in the
Austrian capital, my award for best coffee shop instead goes to one in
Hungary.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On our final day before heading
to Budapest’s airport, we happened to find Auguszt Belvaros.<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn15" name="_ednref15" style="mso-endnote-id: edn15;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">[xv]</span></span></span></span></a><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is a magnificent family-owned 149 year
old institution which serves the best selection of naturally-flavoured cakes
with beautiful coffee and hot chocolate. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjVQdSSAi561lpbk4OLXN_bK9mmBDm3DQy6OyBa1wfX7Do8zwFlDSl11b7VZdV-cqm5vO0Fl-7RI0Op57DX1Tz7MOKrnw9FlSvidHPVEOGt18ivvK8DI1BR4MrcDIJ4J2hy9HA171ieYA/s1600/2019+05+23+AugusztBudapest.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="549" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjVQdSSAi561lpbk4OLXN_bK9mmBDm3DQy6OyBa1wfX7Do8zwFlDSl11b7VZdV-cqm5vO0Fl-7RI0Op57DX1Tz7MOKrnw9FlSvidHPVEOGt18ivvK8DI1BR4MrcDIJ4J2hy9HA171ieYA/s400/2019+05+23+AugusztBudapest.jpg" width="228" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">To mark the previous evening, our final night, with a
sense of occasion, we sought out a cocktail bar and found the ideal place.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The St Andrea Wine and Skybar<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn16" name="_ednref16" style="mso-endnote-id: edn16;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">[xvi]</span></span></span></span></a>
sits above Vorosmarty Square and has won architectural awards.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It serves up a cool modern vibe, an
impressive array of locally-based affordable cocktails, with the enticing bonus
of a panoramic view over Budapest.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Conclusion</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">When the UK Government announced that the elections to
the EU Parliament would take place on 23 May, it was apparent that getting back
to Belfast before 10 pm in time to vote was going to be difficult.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This became more so when the departure from
Franz Liszt airport was delayed by 20 minutes, not helped by the inclusion of
two stops (Banbridge and Sprucefield) by our bus from Dublin airport to
Belfast. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">As we approached our destination, I phoned a taxi company
with a forlorn hope of getting us, literally, to the church on time.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Emerging from the bus weighed down by two
heavy suitcases and with less than 20 minutes until the deadline, I found a
helpful driver waiting and waving.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
explained our mission and he entered into the spirit of the occasion accepting
an impossible challenge in good humour.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Obligingly he whisked us through the city traffic as fast as he could
legally travel. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">With 5 or 6 minutes left on the clock we made it and cast
our votes. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Basking in the warm glow of
an awe-inspiring continental holiday, the only response was to return the compliment and endorse our enduring citizenship with Europe. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">©Michael McSorley 2019</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">References</span></div>
<div style="mso-element: endnote-list;">
<br clear="all" />
<hr align="left" size="1" width="33%" />
<div id="edn1" style="mso-element: endnote;">
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref1" name="_edn1" style="mso-endnote-id: edn1;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">[i]</span></span></span></span></a> Travel
Department www.traveldepartment.ie</div>
</div>
<div id="edn2" style="mso-element: endnote;">
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref2" name="_edn2" style="mso-endnote-id: edn2;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">[ii]</span></span></span></span></a> https://michaelmcsorleytravel.blogspot.com/2015/05/moscow-and-saint-petersburg.html</div>
</div>
<div id="edn3" style="mso-element: endnote;">
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref3" name="_edn3" style="mso-endnote-id: edn3;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">[iii]</span></span></span></span></a><span lang="DE" style="mso-ansi-language: DE;"> www.clarioncongresshotelprague.com</span></div>
</div>
<div id="edn4" style="mso-element: endnote;">
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref4" name="_edn4" style="mso-endnote-id: edn4;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">[iv]</span></span></span></span></a><span style="mso-ansi-language: DE;"> </span><a href="http://www.bestwestern.com/"><span lang="DE" style="mso-ansi-language: DE;">www.bestwestern.com</span></a><span style="mso-ansi-language: DE;"> <span lang="DE">BW Plus Amedia Wien</span></span></div>
</div>
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref5" name="_edn5" style="mso-endnote-id: edn5;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">[v]</span></span></span></span></a>
www.museumhotel.hu</div>
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<div id="edn6" style="mso-element: endnote;">
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref6" name="_edn6" style="mso-endnote-id: edn6;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">[vi]</span></span></span></span></a>
48 hours in Prague Belfast Telegraph Weekend 6 Feb 2016</div>
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<div id="edn7" style="mso-element: endnote;">
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref7" name="_edn7" style="mso-endnote-id: edn7;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">[vii]</span></span></span></span></a> <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-NhCJMoDd5E">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-NhCJMoDd5E</a>
(clip includes The Third Man theme)</div>
</div>
<div id="edn8" style="mso-element: endnote;">
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref8" name="_edn8" style="mso-endnote-id: edn8;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">[viii]</span></span></span></span></a>
48 hours in Prague Belfast Telegraph Weekend 21 June 2014</div>
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<div id="edn9" style="mso-element: endnote;">
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref9" name="_edn9" style="mso-endnote-id: edn9;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">[ix]</span></span></span></span></a>
48 hours in Vienna Belfast Telegraph Weekend 19 September 2015</div>
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<div id="edn10" style="mso-element: endnote;">
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref10" name="_edn10" style="mso-endnote-id: edn10;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">[x]</span></span></span></span></a>
Budapest The City of Spas www.spabudapest.com</div>
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref11" name="_edn11" style="mso-endnote-id: edn11;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">[xi]</span></span></span></span></a>
www.rudasfurdo.hu</div>
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<div id="edn12" style="mso-element: endnote;">
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref12" name="_edn12" style="mso-endnote-id: edn12;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">[xii]</span></span></span></span></a>
48 hours in Budapest Belfast Telegraph Weekend 30 January 2016</div>
</div>
<div id="edn13" style="mso-element: endnote;">
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref13" name="_edn13" style="mso-endnote-id: edn13;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">[xiii]</span></span></span></span></a>
48 hours in Budapest Belfast Telegraph Weekend 27 September 2014</div>
</div>
<div id="edn14" style="mso-element: endnote;">
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref14" name="_edn14" style="mso-endnote-id: edn14;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">[xiv]</span></span></span></span></a> https://muzeumkavehaz.hu/en/</div>
</div>
<div id="edn15" style="mso-element: endnote;">
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref15" name="_edn15" style="mso-endnote-id: edn15;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">[xv]</span></span></span></span></a> https://auguszt.hu/auguszt-belvaros/</div>
</div>
<div id="edn16" style="mso-element: endnote;">
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref16" name="_edn16" style="mso-endnote-id: edn16;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">[xvi]</span></span></span></span></a> https://standreaskybar.hu/</div>
</div>
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Michael McSorleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06352593190581090069noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1873197369166122223.post-49325595235960353682018-09-29T06:59:00.003-07:002018-09-29T06:59:26.590-07:00The Rose of Tralee<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">When you haven’t visited a beautiful place for too long, the
result is that its breathtaking natural beauty and the creative culture can become
an all too distant memory.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">And yet Ireland’s far south-west is easily
accessible.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It’s available without having
to endure the irritation of security at airports and ports.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>To avoid the discomfort of security queues
and the invasiveness of body-searching when going abroad, the relaxing
alternative is to remain on terra firma.</span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">My wife and I decided on a late summer tour from one end
of the island to the other, from County Antrim to Co Kerry, from Belfast to
Dingle.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The children, now parents, were
very young when we last set foot in Killarney. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>Regardless of prognostications about impending
gloom in the wake of Brexit, a lot of history - much of it good - has been
recorded on both sides of our “seamless” border since then.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">To make travel easier, not to mention our retirement
objective to reduce carbon footprint, this journey offered the ideal
opportunity to leave the car locked up at home.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We would travel by train, tram, and buses with a couple of short
transfers by taxi.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Where we live, there
is a wonderful benefit for resident 65+ year olds to use all forms of public
transport at no personal cost.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Apart
from buses, trains, and trams it even includes publicly-run ferries, a generous
facility which operates equally in both jurisdictions (hopefully unhindered in the future by Brexit).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">So, apart from the bragging rights for good green
credentials, driver fatigue and road rage disappear.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The chauffeured traveller can peacefully read
a thriller novel while sipping green tea, and delight in making family and
friends jealous with photos of beautiful scenery.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The novelty of our experimental trip was instanced at the
end of the first stage of the journey when, on arrival in Dublin, we
transferred from Connolly station direct to our hotel<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn1" name="_ednref1" style="mso-endnote-id: edn1;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[i]</span></span></span></span></a> on the new (to us) Luas
line.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This sleek modern tram took us
efficiently (</span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "gaelicschoolbook"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Luas</span></i><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> being the Irish Gaelic word
for speed) across the city centre at our leisure and without fuss, thence a
short walk to our overnight stop.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The
choice of hotel was determined because it is adjacent to Hueston station from where,
next morning we would take the train to Tralee, the county town of Kerry,
population about 35,000.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The best things we did on this three-night stay based in
Tralee<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn2" name="_ednref2" style="mso-endnote-id: edn2;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[ii]</span></span></span></span></a> were a visit to Dingle, a
tour round the beautiful Ring of Kerry, and a theatrical evening at Siamsa
Tíre.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Lying thirty miles south-west of Tralee, Dingle provides
– apart from an array of sights<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn3" name="_ednref3" style="mso-endnote-id: edn3;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[iii]</span></span></span></span></a> - an impressive range of
restaurants, mostly specializing in fresh locally-caught seafood.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>These are sufficient reason for a visit and
probably explain the droves of discerning foreign visitors from Europe and
north America. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>These tourists are attracted
by the same catch as the town’s most famous resident.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">One of the best things to do in Dingle is to go on a boat
trip, the most popular being the short journey to see Fungie the dolphin.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Having arrived in Dingle Bay in 1983, Fungie
has become such a huge attraction that a bronze sculpture of him is on display
at the harbour. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>Several operators
provide tours “all day, every day, all year round.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Apparently it can border on chaotic in high
season when numerous boats jostle for position.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDW15wpA6HieNYdbziyHQiVnxCerUHHLcP85B57rYZNYR0WsL2y7Bz5D2wIiPbQsHMHlc9LF3IaOPy9yjDvvA7Wmw3x6Rt8DL3mE_xQBJscr7qmnKqu_H8nsFpaOdzIc-MObxTgoOItDU/s1600/2018+09+Kerry+0001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="960" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDW15wpA6HieNYdbziyHQiVnxCerUHHLcP85B57rYZNYR0WsL2y7Bz5D2wIiPbQsHMHlc9LF3IaOPy9yjDvvA7Wmw3x6Rt8DL3mE_xQBJscr7qmnKqu_H8nsFpaOdzIc-MObxTgoOItDU/s320/2018+09+Kerry+0001.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Nowhere else in the world, apparently, has a dolphin
adopted a place long-term like this, meaning that this bottlenose’s continuous
presence over 35 years is unique to Dingle.</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG_6kdkk9es_kSvCaX3zLrAwnDo4gsuMByCEQYxgx9oP8Rj-p-PiLQI6MGUCbBVh9Lrv8vq_E1OesZw4HarO2AkiclDyfZdiY07MawRCSdIOWO0JH1m3-WojKx6eFCmFVRpIbWJyI0NvY/s1600/2018+09+0011.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="674" data-original-width="1024" height="210" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG_6kdkk9es_kSvCaX3zLrAwnDo4gsuMByCEQYxgx9oP8Rj-p-PiLQI6MGUCbBVh9Lrv8vq_E1OesZw4HarO2AkiclDyfZdiY07MawRCSdIOWO0JH1m3-WojKx6eFCmFVRpIbWJyI0NvY/s320/2018+09+0011.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Our journey along “Ireland’s most spectacular mountain
road, the Ring of Kerry” started and finished in Killarney, long famous for its
jaunting cars. The commercial bus tour took us, along with about 20 mostly American
visitors anti-clockwise around the Iveragh peninsula which lies on the southern
side of Dingle Bay.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Killorglin village was the first place of interest, being
famed for Puck Fair.<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn4" name="_ednref4" style="mso-endnote-id: edn4;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[iv]</span></span></span></span></a><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The clue is in the name – </span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "gaelicschoolbook"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">poc</span></i><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">
being the Irish Gaelic word for a male goat.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The high point of the annual event is the crowning of a wild goat as a
King of the Fair.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He sits in an exalted
position for the duration of the 3-day event keeping a watchful eye on
proceedings. </span></div>
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</div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The main attraction of the Ring, however, is the
magnificent coastal scenery and rugged countryside which includes the lakes of
Killarney. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The broadcast of a television
documentary a few days after our return home helpfully explained that tourism
in this part of the country owes its origins to the advent of the railways in
1853 when Killarney’s station opened, followed by the Great Southern Hotel in
1854.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxmEBxC9bRcPSXxwBYhYirEqsGCcRKNB4D1323tgKgETKa2ybd2lgGlEN6b31AOKvLfCMjcNogPvrXtd9mtLKB0zWPH0DxMdczmUjZiY4w_FwpFQeMM6ZmYbtpPgVBCGYnTogmWnVD0fc/s1600/2018+09+Kerry+0004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="960" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxmEBxC9bRcPSXxwBYhYirEqsGCcRKNB4D1323tgKgETKa2ybd2lgGlEN6b31AOKvLfCMjcNogPvrXtd9mtLKB0zWPH0DxMdczmUjZiY4w_FwpFQeMM6ZmYbtpPgVBCGYnTogmWnVD0fc/s200/2018+09+Kerry+0004.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtXvt0n4NUtKP20mRxUTkFez3xOIZfU77L2Gmuzozcek1zg-wRjCvEFq_InrmCwv0GQATM6s2VUipse655geZ9cw2HqPWZqEURBNFybnvKHMIUAwA-kU-Ptbuz1Fyd5BNMgxDGMUyWMPY/s1600/2018+09+Kerry+0002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="960" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtXvt0n4NUtKP20mRxUTkFez3xOIZfU77L2Gmuzozcek1zg-wRjCvEFq_InrmCwv0GQATM6s2VUipse655geZ9cw2HqPWZqEURBNFybnvKHMIUAwA-kU-Ptbuz1Fyd5BNMgxDGMUyWMPY/s200/2018+09+Kerry+0002.jpg" width="200" /></a><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Celebrity endorsement followed
with a subsequent and successful visit by Queen Victoria in 1861<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn5" name="_ednref5" style="mso-endnote-id: edn5;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[v]</span></span></span></span></a>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The monarch was responsible for naming one
beauty spot Ladies View.</span><br />
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfRqY8fhFJxmVjhklcts7nDlm1HvTSvzkeNuDjRAcYIXjeMpyds2XvlrLvmmSJq6AEVOaUBxn9rGFqgVRPvE5xky-Cw9IbPhq2XDlk7bZd1VsmGgAwbcEGsSBV77Y_F4JQ9LOf7vzVblU/s1600/2018+09+Kerry+0005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfRqY8fhFJxmVjhklcts7nDlm1HvTSvzkeNuDjRAcYIXjeMpyds2XvlrLvmmSJq6AEVOaUBxn9rGFqgVRPvE5xky-Cw9IbPhq2XDlk7bZd1VsmGgAwbcEGsSBV77Y_F4JQ9LOf7vzVblU/s320/2018+09+Kerry+0005.jpg" width="240" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">On an otherwise amusing and informative tour, the only
aspect of the driver’s commentary which dismayed me was his remarks about the
island of Skellig Michael which lies 8 miles off the coast.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">He repeated the story of the filming of part
of the latest Star Wars film<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn6" name="_ednref6" style="mso-endnote-id: edn6;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[vi]</span></span></span></span></a> and the benefits to the
local economy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He omitted to mention its
significance as a World Heritage site,<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn7" name="_ednref7" style="mso-endnote-id: edn7;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[vii]</span></span></span></span></a> being the location of
one of Europe’s earliest Christian monastic sites, a place of enormous
archaeological importance and also a special haven for wildlife.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>When I advised some of our visiting
colleagues of these facts, they were more impressed with this than by the
Hollywood angle.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO92ki-r4UrA49QOw1YXU9_QJU2lbFLvgK78o1RwxJp6ITiVajGi42brN5msLwo2rIHcFn1vjRRSp80rcwl2wiSk6FafMKcdyHj-Jmnh1w6hT4ZjFcmnZZTKYNXXMsq5bE1LR29oSgH5s/s1600/2018+09+Kerry+0007.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="295" data-original-width="530" height="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO92ki-r4UrA49QOw1YXU9_QJU2lbFLvgK78o1RwxJp6ITiVajGi42brN5msLwo2rIHcFn1vjRRSp80rcwl2wiSk6FafMKcdyHj-Jmnh1w6hT4ZjFcmnZZTKYNXXMsq5bE1LR29oSgH5s/s400/2018+09+Kerry+0007.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcmLDQywb0eT6TfbKLeCxTrNHBzAF_qCwHQ3Pz8fzQqQIyGojQ3xw04qdlX9Oqg1GwgEkDwiC0yg66wzNmWw6J2Psr6nZp9Rk0-kI2gq_ineacq9uVvq1tHE6R2sJnlJMUTlGp0ICLVyw/s1600/2018+09+Kerry+0006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcmLDQywb0eT6TfbKLeCxTrNHBzAF_qCwHQ3Pz8fzQqQIyGojQ3xw04qdlX9Oqg1GwgEkDwiC0yg66wzNmWw6J2Psr6nZp9Rk0-kI2gq_ineacq9uVvq1tHE6R2sJnlJMUTlGp0ICLVyw/s400/2018+09+Kerry+0006.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">After plenty of bracing fresh air, a cultural evening of “mirth
and music of the land” is the perfect match.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span></span><span style="font-family: "gaelicschoolbook"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Siamsa Tíre</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> means exactly that, a
pleasant diversion with musical entertainment.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It is the name of the National Folk Theatre of Ireland which is
celebrating its fiftieth anniversary this year and lies next to the centre of
Tralee.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The company’s repertoire brings Irish folklore to life
through music song and dance.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was
lucky enough to see its original show </span><span style="font-family: "gaelicschoolbook"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Fadó
Fadó, </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Long
Ago, a tale of rural life on a simple homestead over the four seasons.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The mesmeric quality of singing, both solo and choral,
alongside the intricacies of traditional Irish dancing and backed up with skilled musicianship
were an uplifting combination of perfect harmony.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9rPFw4qGOxKHW1OkWIrvFS9nCajKR2cqiBTMfz2TsCOY87370Agc9WMj29mLkI22XR4gwb78cQGeEybT01Osgd0PvwGu_7-1SjcJ8-gStb2Fv2q3OXhbujubsPy73viyh-t2CEBEmTng/s1600/2018+09+Kerry+0009.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="492" data-original-width="740" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9rPFw4qGOxKHW1OkWIrvFS9nCajKR2cqiBTMfz2TsCOY87370Agc9WMj29mLkI22XR4gwb78cQGeEybT01Osgd0PvwGu_7-1SjcJ8-gStb2Fv2q3OXhbujubsPy73viyh-t2CEBEmTng/s320/2018+09+Kerry+0009.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNihKlIJC-ljmmTGHGxhMqoOfzmpFjO6LyYdmFGxUORniDfnTaMdDfx2muz1tECqZ3C_s1EjRfuuS9Wx66frISD9_igQTcy8lSOAe63iy0Vmjg6bpS4d9_b3ec0rom8uIY_f0QKvCHhys/s1600/2018+09+Kerry+0010.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="492" data-original-width="740" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNihKlIJC-ljmmTGHGxhMqoOfzmpFjO6LyYdmFGxUORniDfnTaMdDfx2muz1tECqZ3C_s1EjRfuuS9Wx66frISD9_igQTcy8lSOAe63iy0Vmjg6bpS4d9_b3ec0rom8uIY_f0QKvCHhys/s320/2018+09+Kerry+0010.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Tralee is a good base from which to explore County Kerry.
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Less touristy than resort towns like
Killarney and Dingle, it is the venue for the enduringly popular Rose of Tralee
pageant. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> Incidentally, the county’s other main town,
Listowel, has won the award as Ireland’s Tidiest Town 2018<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn8" name="_ednref8" style="mso-endnote-id: edn8;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[viii]</span></span></span></span></a>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">As the county town, Tralee has a bustling
commercial town centre, a beautiful central park complete with an impressive
rose walk and garden, and a pleasant riverside walk to the Blennerville
Windmill. Roses abound.</span><span style="font-family: "gaelicschoolbook"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">©Michael McSorley 2018</span></div>
<div style="mso-element: endnote-list;">
<br clear="all" />
<hr align="left" size="1" width="33%" />
<div id="edn1" style="mso-element: endnote;">
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref1" name="_edn1" style="mso-endnote-id: edn1;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[i]</span></span></span></span></a> <a href="https://www.ashlinghotel.ie/">https://www.ashlinghotel.ie/</a> Aisling in
Irish means vision or dream.</div>
</div>
<div id="edn2" style="mso-element: endnote;">
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref2" name="_edn2" style="mso-endnote-id: edn2;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[ii]</span></span></span></span></a> https://www.therosehotel.com/</div>
</div>
<div id="edn3" style="mso-element: endnote;">
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref3" name="_edn3" style="mso-endnote-id: edn3;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[iii]</span></span></span></span></a> https://www.authenticireland.com/14-things-to-do-in-dingle/</div>
</div>
<div id="edn4" style="mso-element: endnote;">
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref4" name="_edn4" style="mso-endnote-id: edn4;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[iv]</span></span></span></span></a> http://puckfair.ie/history</div>
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref5" name="_edn5" style="mso-endnote-id: edn5;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[v]</span></span></span></span></a> An
Irishman’s Diary Irish Times 30 April 2011</div>
</div>
<div id="edn6" style="mso-element: endnote;">
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref6" name="_edn6" style="mso-endnote-id: edn6;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[vi]</span></span></span></span></a> Irish
Times 9 December 2017 https://www.irishtimes.com/life-and-style/travel/ireland/experience-the-force-a-guide-to-the-star-wars-magic-in-kerry-1.3317637</div>
</div>
<div id="edn7" style="mso-element: endnote;">
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref7" name="_edn7" style="mso-endnote-id: edn7;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[vii]</span></span></span></span></a> http://www.worldheritageireland.ie/skellig-michael/</div>
</div>
<div id="edn8" style="mso-element: endnote;">
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref8" name="_edn8" style="mso-endnote-id: edn8;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[viii]</span></span></span></span></a>
Irish Times 24 September 2018 https://www.irishtimes.com/news/environment/tidy-towns-listowel-in-co-kerry-announced-as-2018-winner-1.3639448<br />
Note:- Photos by the author, except for those of the sculpture & Skellig (sourced from google images), and Siamsa Tíre (from its Facebook page). </div>
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Michael McSorleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06352593190581090069noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1873197369166122223.post-78199539967821339662018-06-28T15:19:00.000-07:002018-06-29T08:10:30.841-07:00Westminster Bridge revisited<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></u></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">What better place to visit in flaming June than central London.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The heart of a metropolis that provokes
thought and, above all, inspires.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">With air temperatures in the low 20’s centigrade, this was
the ideal opportunity both to explore the capital’s attractions, natural and
cultural, on foot; and also to reside in close proximity to the Houses of
Parliament.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">On this visit we (my wife and I along with a daughter and
eldest grandson) experienced a heady mix of being in a place experiencing
historic change as it argues passionately about its future role in the
world.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Our timing coincided with events
such as the monarch’s official birthday and notable anniversaries.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>These included the centenary of women’s suffrage,
the first anniversary of the calamitous fire at Grenfell Tower and the
seventieth anniversary of the MV Windrush’s arrival from the Caribbean. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">These events provided quite a backdrop to our purpose in
visiting, namely to support and enjoy London’s prominent role as a vibrant
cultural city.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">My daughter had bought tickets for a top West End show
six months previously, a birthday present that had to be postponed for reasons
to do with my inability to travel earlier in the year.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">We had the best seats in the
house in the front row of the balcony to see the Garrick Theatre’s production
of Young Frankenstein.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyEs0cdQq6HNu9gYah51KaDleN_j3d7fuPNPVxCpuhhfoMQSmXdFPS6fIVHhwik21CWRGnipozenNpPZQbdaop53S8bEAOlDaN43JsLyLtSZ_8UI23Cn3nlcHEuL3xJGzwfU4brqay_ro/s1600/2018+06+09+0002Frankenstein.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyEs0cdQq6HNu9gYah51KaDleN_j3d7fuPNPVxCpuhhfoMQSmXdFPS6fIVHhwik21CWRGnipozenNpPZQbdaop53S8bEAOlDaN43JsLyLtSZ_8UI23Cn3nlcHEuL3xJGzwfU4brqay_ro/s400/2018+06+09+0002Frankenstein.jpg" width="300" /></a></span></span></div>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Directed by Mel Brooks, this is a musical version of his
1974 film of the same name which starred Gene Wilder. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I remember as a twenty-five year old seeing
the film when it was released all those years ago; and, serendipitously, it was
screened on terrestrial television in the UK in February this year. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Guided by the sure-footed Mel Brooks again, this stage
version is faithful to the film, equally funny but even more entertaining
because it is a live “in your face” performance with great music, brilliant acting
performances and impressive stage sets.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The impact of witnessing such a turbo-charged slick
production is pure elation.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A show like
Young Frankenstein encourages normal imagination to run riot, to believe that
anything is possible, that lateral thinking can make the world a better
place.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I would say it was one of the
best theatrical experiences of my life. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Taking advantage of the gorgeous weather, we spent a lot
of time outdoors in St James’s Park<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn1" name="_ednref1" style="mso-endnote-id: edn1;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[i]</span></span></span></span></a> with its pelicans and walking
along the Thames embankment. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En route
from our hotel,<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn2" name="_ednref2" style="mso-endnote-id: edn2;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[ii]</span></span></span></span></a>
which was only about 100 yards from Westminster Abbey, we stopped at Parliament
Square.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Our attention was caught by the
sight of many women bedecked in the green white and violet tricolour of the suffrage
movement.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We soon realised that they
were paying homage to Millicent Fawcett.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Six weeks before our visit, she became the first woman to be honoured
with a statue erected in Parliament Square.<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn3" name="_ednref3" style="mso-endnote-id: edn3;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[iii]</span></span></span></span></a> <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Now she stands proudly next to Gandhi looking
imperiously across the square to the Houses of Parliament.</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPZdCJZzsSAWO5bWWmvJo43Mf95SN81asrFEv9hogCeIQ8DiCoW2Kni76aehZyut4Vkxos0J84KyaZxsdJ7osVIykvqb3WFGieXCgF4fOtnGoa6lKN1LDP557haxyBqpRwIq3V6yPtq88/s1600/2018+06+10+0001+Suffrage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPZdCJZzsSAWO5bWWmvJo43Mf95SN81asrFEv9hogCeIQ8DiCoW2Kni76aehZyut4Vkxos0J84KyaZxsdJ7osVIykvqb3WFGieXCgF4fOtnGoa6lKN1LDP557haxyBqpRwIq3V6yPtq88/s400/2018+06+10+0001+Suffrage.jpg" width="300" /></a></span></div>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">After crossing Westminster Bridge and with no particular
plan in mind, it was impossible to pass by a small but important
exhibition.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Given the prominence of immigration
as a determining issue in the outcome of the Brexit referendum two years ago, the appearance
of an unassuming pop-up exhibition about the Windrush<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn4" name="_ednref4" style="mso-endnote-id: edn4;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[iv]</span></span></span></span></a> generation stopped us in
our tracks.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This temporary event
consisted of photographs and panels setting out the story of the brave 492 West
Indian people who responded to Britain’s invitation to help rebuild the nation
after the war.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A couple of the ship’s survivors
were present, happy to greet and tell their own poignant stories.</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVTiEn-HvicpDrBvFCQrHe-s-FjlQxraQ8k02ANuilNgtGpjfBLKo0EbYK-ws3ohiJstwVEw2e7G-TqNkKdWv8RgbYrJpIhW4fk2j0ejcVSDWaBuN7oFupnb6VduOTb_bPmxqSed6_FUc/s1600/2018+06+09+0001+Windrush.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="960" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVTiEn-HvicpDrBvFCQrHe-s-FjlQxraQ8k02ANuilNgtGpjfBLKo0EbYK-ws3ohiJstwVEw2e7G-TqNkKdWv8RgbYrJpIhW4fk2j0ejcVSDWaBuN7oFupnb6VduOTb_bPmxqSed6_FUc/s400/2018+06+09+0001+Windrush.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">After enjoying an ice cream break on a summery afternoon
and mingling with the happy Sunday crowds, we ventured indoors again to Tate
Modern, a respite from the heat.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is
hosting a major exhibition of Picasso’s 1932 works.<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn5" name="_ednref5" style="mso-endnote-id: edn5;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[v]</span></span></span></span></a><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Because I had already bought tickets for
another art exhibition the next day, we decided to save money and take
advantage of the Tate’s permanent collections.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We viewed a magnificent mix of other artworks by Picasso and an Antony
Gormley sculpture. </span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1NtSIOpnJEHebF_jmsKreszeQ5k3wrXFmsF-DXKwEM28LMSUHQS56eayrbqpbHY2jQojZBfEydPe0wtpik5V84XfagesDuzm4HV1OmP0uh-fGLf9uYGFBJNQ1z8FUSyI6E3CXEjmlpTc/s1600/2018+06+09+0004Gormley.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="960" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1NtSIOpnJEHebF_jmsKreszeQ5k3wrXFmsF-DXKwEM28LMSUHQS56eayrbqpbHY2jQojZBfEydPe0wtpik5V84XfagesDuzm4HV1OmP0uh-fGLf9uYGFBJNQ1z8FUSyI6E3CXEjmlpTc/s320/2018+06+09+0004Gormley.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>In addition we saw
modern art by great artists such as Salvador Dali, Dégas, Georges Braque, Andy
Warhol, Louise Bourgeois, the Guerrilla Girls<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn6" name="_ednref6" style="mso-endnote-id: edn6;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[vi]</span></span></span></span></a>, Bridget Riley and Cildo Meireles.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXF0SU7AanpWS2V8iKl9lRCEAfts1O8YyUQECQYXvmqOzksyeBExJ8fA8Y3LtDYbObTq1u1DxyUHr5DXC0BTBbl3jhyphenhyphenK0eYImx4ck0Sn2_l8bL_zA06MSebX242K4sJ99cj2J_PaOZbNY/s1600/2018+06+0003+BabelTateModern.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXF0SU7AanpWS2V8iKl9lRCEAfts1O8YyUQECQYXvmqOzksyeBExJ8fA8Y3LtDYbObTq1u1DxyUHr5DXC0BTBbl3jhyphenhyphenK0eYImx4ck0Sn2_l8bL_zA06MSebX242K4sJ99cj2J_PaOZbNY/s400/2018+06+0003+BabelTateModern.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cildo Meireles's Babel 2001, a tower of real radios playing at once, about information overload and failed communication</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The Tate room which impressed me most was the collection by Mark
Rothko, its calming impact.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Perhaps the
connection was intensified following the recent 3-part BBC documentary series
on modern American art presented by Waldemar Januszczak<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn7" name="_ednref7" style="mso-endnote-id: edn7;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[vii]</span></span></span></span></a>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But what a privilege (and great value) it is
to visit a major gallery and see important paintings without having to pay.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Our final treat was a visit to the National Gallery.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The attraction was the much heralded
exhibition of almost 70 paintings by Monet, brought together from galleries and
private collections across the world, including one from Dublin City Gallery.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>It was billed as a look at his career
through the buildings he painted from Normandy, Paris, London and Venice.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>London’s official visitor guide<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn8" name="_ednref8" style="mso-endnote-id: edn8;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[viii]</span></span></span></span></a> enticed us:</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 36.0pt;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">“Monet
spent his mornings painting London from a balcony at the Savoy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In the afternoon he moved across the river to
paint the Houses of Parliament from St Thomas’s Hospital.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Over a year, Monet painted 41 different
versions of Waterloo Bridge, 35 of Charing Cross Bridge and 21 of the Houses of
Parliament.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At one point he was working
65 paintings at the same time.”</span></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Apart from the eight works on show of London landmarks
(Waterloo Bridge, the Houses of Parliament and Charing Cross Bridge), the
painting that resonated with me was his image of Dolceacqua Bridge where we stood
on a holiday to Liguria<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn9" name="_ednref9" style="mso-endnote-id: edn9;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[ix]</span></span></span></span></a> five years ago.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The previous day when we sat down in the sun taking in
the view up and across the Thames, I wondered (lonely as a cloud) what Cumbria’s lyric poet William
Wordsworth would have thought about inner London 216 years after composing his romantic
paean to the city Upon Westminster Bridge<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn10" name="_ednref10" style="mso-endnote-id: edn10;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[x]</span></span></span></span></a><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Dazzled by a mix of music theatre, last
night’s gourmet dinner at the exclusive Ivy restaurant<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn11" name="_ednref11" style="mso-endnote-id: edn11;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[xi]</span></span></span></span></a> in Covent Garden, the joy
of fine art on two days and no little sunshine a creative thought occurred that
simply would not go away.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">If musicians like Jacques Loussier can extemporize with
Bach’s airs, if Andrzej Jagodzinski can do likewise with Chopin’s preludes and
nocturnes, and with everybody from Rachmaninov to Andrew Lloyd Webber composing
Variations of Paganini’s caprice, why not compose a contemporary version of
Wordsworth’s ethereal 14-line sonnet. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Taking account of the events and places we visited on this
occasion, I present my imagining keeping close to the original masterpiece in form and in words. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Consequently and iambic pentameter notwithstanding, this might approximate to what
the bardic wordsmith might have written today Upon Westminster Bridge.</span></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Earth
has not anything to show more fair</span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Dull
would She #MeToo be of soul who could pass by</span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Red
arrows so touching on Her Majesty’s birthday:</span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This
City, now global financial services centre, doth wear</span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The
beauty of Boris bikes in the morning rush hour; </span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Suffrage
statue, edifices dwarfing St Paul’s dome, London Eye</span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Open
unto fields disappeared, new towers scraping the sky</span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">All
bright and glittering in the smokeless post-Grenfell air.</span></i></div>
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<br /></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Never
again will sun more beautifully steep in its splendour</span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Tate
Modern, National Gallery, and Windrush exhibits; ten thousand selfies</span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Ne’re
saw I at a glance, never felt a Mark Rothko calm so deep!</span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Monet’s
fogbound river glideth in plastic at his own sweet will:</span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Dear
PM, courage calls! <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The very Houses of
Parliament seem asleep;</span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">That
mighty heart of Young Frankenstein’s Brexit monster is lying still!</span></i></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">To express the romantic spirit of this sonnet, an actor's dulcet
tones would help.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The earthen melodiousness of Liam Neeson’s elocution reciting lyric
poetry by Seamus Heaney marvelled this listener recently.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He would add extra gravitas to this offering.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">©Michael McSorley 2018</span></div>
<div style="mso-element: endnote-list;">
<br clear="all" />
<hr align="left" size="1" width="33%" />
<div id="edn1" style="mso-element: endnote;">
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref1" name="_edn1" style="mso-endnote-id: edn1;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[i]</span></span></span></span></a> https://www.royalparks.org.uk/parks/st-jamess-park</div>
</div>
<div id="edn2" style="mso-element: endnote;">
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref2" name="_edn2" style="mso-endnote-id: edn2;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[ii]</span></span></span></span></a> https://www.premierinn.com/gb/en/hotels/england/greater-london/london/hub-london-westminster-abbey.html</div>
</div>
<div id="edn3" style="mso-element: endnote;">
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref3" name="_edn3" style="mso-endnote-id: edn3;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[iii]</span></span></span></span></a> https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-politics-43868925</div>
</div>
<div id="edn4" style="mso-element: endnote;">
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref4" name="_edn4" style="mso-endnote-id: edn4;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[iv]</span></span></span></span></a> https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-43782241</div>
</div>
<div id="edn5" style="mso-element: endnote;">
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref5" name="_edn5" style="mso-endnote-id: edn5;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[v]</span></span></span></span></a> http://www.tate.org.uk/whats-on/tate-modern/exhibition/ey-exhibition-picasso-1932-love-fame-tragedy/exhibition-guide</div>
</div>
<div id="edn6" style="mso-element: endnote;">
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref6" name="_edn6" style="mso-endnote-id: edn6;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[vi]</span></span></span></span></a> http://www.tate.org.uk/art/artists/guerrilla-girls-6858</div>
</div>
<div id="edn7" style="mso-element: endnote;">
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref7" name="_edn7" style="mso-endnote-id: edn7;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[vii]</span></span></span></span></a> https://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b0b49rq2/big-sky-big-dreams-big-art-made-in-the-usa-series-1-episode-2</div>
</div>
<div id="edn8" style="mso-element: endnote;">
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref8" name="_edn8" style="mso-endnote-id: edn8;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[viii]</span></span></span></span></a>
<a href="http://www.visitlondon.com/">www.Visitlondon.com</a><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Monet and architecture (until July 29)</div>
</div>
<div id="edn9" style="mso-element: endnote;">
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref9" name="_edn9" style="mso-endnote-id: edn9;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[ix]</span></span></span></span></a> http://michaelmcsorleytravel.blogspot.com/2014/01/vacances-sans-frontieres.html</div>
</div>
<div id="edn10" style="mso-element: endnote;">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-indent: -12.0pt;">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref10" name="_edn10" style="mso-endnote-id: edn10;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[x]</span></span></span></span></span></a><b><span style="font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">
</span><span style="font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Earth has not anything to show more fair: </span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-indent: -12.0pt;">
<b><span style="font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Dull would he be of soul who could pass by </span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-indent: -12.0pt;">
<b><span style="font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">A sight so touching in its majesty: </span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-indent: -12.0pt;">
<b><span style="font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">This City now doth, like a garment, wear </span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-indent: -12.0pt;">
<b><span style="font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">The beauty of the morning; silent, bare, </span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-indent: -12.0pt;">
<b><span style="font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Ships, towers, domes, theatres, and temples lie </span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-indent: -12.0pt;">
<b><span style="font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Open unto the fields, and to the sky; </span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-indent: -12.0pt;">
<b><span style="font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">All bright and glittering in the smokeless air. </span></b></div>
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<b><br /></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-indent: -12.0pt;">
<b><span style="font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Never did sun more beautifully steep </span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-indent: -12.0pt;">
<b><span style="font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">In his first splendour, valley, rock, or hill; </span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-indent: -12.0pt;">
<b><span style="font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Ne'er saw I, never felt, a calm so deep! </span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-indent: -12.0pt;">
<b><span style="font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">The river glideth at his own sweet will: </span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-indent: -12.0pt;">
<b><span style="font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Dear God! the very houses seem asleep; </span></b></div>
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<b><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">And all that mighty heart is lying still!</span></b></div>
</div>
<div id="edn11" style="mso-element: endnote;">
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref11" name="_edn11" style="mso-endnote-id: edn11;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[xi]</span></span></span></span></a> https://www.the-ivy.co.uk/</div>
</div>
</div>
Michael McSorleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06352593190581090069noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1873197369166122223.post-10746570164122338302017-07-29T04:24:00.001-07:002017-07-29T04:24:48.421-07:00Short summer breaks<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">As the peak of the summer holiday season arrives in
August, it’s opportune to share the joy of short breaks closer to home based on
two trips in recent weeks.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The first
journey necessitated flights to England; the second involved a drive by car
across the Irish border.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><u>The east of England</u></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">At the end of last month, we visited our youngest
daughter Jennifer, her husband Sam and their son Max in Essex. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They live in the historic market town of
Saffron Walden. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Having experienced its
many delights previously, we took our son-in-law’s advice and ventured
eastwards on this occasion.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>Following an
afternoon visit to Cambridge we set off.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Our destination was East Anglia, more specifically the coastal town of
Southwold.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">On the previous weekend with my wife making her way to
Birmingham to watch a pre-Wimbledon tennis tournament (and travelling on to
Saffron Walden a week later), I was tantalised and severely tempted by
photographs as Jennifer Sam and Max relaxed on Southwold’s exquisite beach.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiydvSQd-JjN_-6ykH-rMqNEib5J6EmVmPW92ZZu-OXs0dTFPiE6Z4eP93C35gsaXmpkAeqBfDmraSU0i_QapWW-g1GGAbhIHNuQp1E04qh-e4gGJtOXauU8cFvUqVXEmLBkSzK8ZwPgFY/s1600/IMG-20170618-WA0006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiydvSQd-JjN_-6ykH-rMqNEib5J6EmVmPW92ZZu-OXs0dTFPiE6Z4eP93C35gsaXmpkAeqBfDmraSU0i_QapWW-g1GGAbhIHNuQp1E04qh-e4gGJtOXauU8cFvUqVXEmLBkSzK8ZwPgFY/s200/IMG-20170618-WA0006.jpg" width="150" /></a><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span></span></div>
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<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEz-fQaNFfovwghTp3KkdEFFxxUfCER0UO7B8Udu-5B0MsIocNH1l1h5suj8qc3U92GXgozc8UEHH5FSyh5cwmvXjxASVKiqQxF-q07ijm5eQ5g0Cd6dt29vRtgjgjgB_pyc5KMd3pN88/s1600/IMG-20170618-WA0005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEz-fQaNFfovwghTp3KkdEFFxxUfCER0UO7B8Udu-5B0MsIocNH1l1h5suj8qc3U92GXgozc8UEHH5FSyh5cwmvXjxASVKiqQxF-q07ijm5eQ5g0Cd6dt29vRtgjgjgB_pyc5KMd3pN88/s320/IMG-20170618-WA0005.jpg" width="320" /></a><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<br />
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">It probably helped that the air temperature was a sweltering 30+ degrees centigrade.</span></span></div>
<br />
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<br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">There was only one logical course of action.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After observing that the weather was set fair
for the coming weekend, a decision was rapidly made to fly over at the end of
the week and meet up with my wife and Jennifer in the tropical south-east.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This turned out to be a wise choice because the pleasing
climate allowed us to capitalise on the resort’s outdoor opportunities.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB2jgSocBOPQV0KzlrOmT1vRyXM60vzmnwmk01sQeM0KTZDvtTigVTJyNnE1z8fn4VVYgWTEmSvoq0uXONBNIaAxWjV8whJiK9Uodosaivxa-k0ayVdaRf0ENTUnzm-Rccnmfr3bMVWXk/s1600/IMG-20170624-WA0006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB2jgSocBOPQV0KzlrOmT1vRyXM60vzmnwmk01sQeM0KTZDvtTigVTJyNnE1z8fn4VVYgWTEmSvoq0uXONBNIaAxWjV8whJiK9Uodosaivxa-k0ayVdaRf0ENTUnzm-Rccnmfr3bMVWXk/s320/IMG-20170624-WA0006.jpg" width="320" /></a><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Sandcastles were built, </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">we explored the
town’s uniquely well-preserved pier replete with all manner of Victorian
inspired eccentric amusements</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">and we ate superb fresh fish in waterfront
restaurants.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyMw3SKwWRdlhlWfh-2zsEY8EuVNqAnQZRQkmvJeJMxgWHg1ZgaXiT684A2DH5u9kXBCIUjQ697MbucObXJnRQxoEvhp2lJwQoKvkeHrQepKjPIEGrRDCJexlkBGCD7-3vN_afK60Qswo/s1600/IMG-20170624-WA0010.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1387" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyMw3SKwWRdlhlWfh-2zsEY8EuVNqAnQZRQkmvJeJMxgWHg1ZgaXiT684A2DH5u9kXBCIUjQ697MbucObXJnRQxoEvhp2lJwQoKvkeHrQepKjPIEGrRDCJexlkBGCD7-3vN_afK60Qswo/s400/IMG-20170624-WA0010.jpg" width="346" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">On our second day, I had time to test the waters with a
sea swim. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">Normally I wouldn't consider swimming in the sea until late August or September but </span>this turned out to be an invigorating personal
highlight of our short getaway in Southwold.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The benign water temperature enabled me to splash and thrash about for
surprisingly longer than the 60 second dip I had anticipated beforehand.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">We also visited the area’s best known attraction,
Adnam’s.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Best known for its beers, this
is a company which also also directly retails a diverse range of its own drinks and
even kitchenware in very impressive modern premises. Its ambient outdoor restaurant appealed the most to us.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq8K6lxuNUXKbN7bQnxUrDo7aFx1vdfGQHi0Tf8OO9HKxVgtoAIqXPvdIlZJbKBKRJ4DRJSg158YnMmSt2_K4ArgAi1NcYM3vy7NcPceE2g_pB3PR8u9LqaOGhu-QniR3uRhnITOE1eu4/s1600/SouthwoldAdnams+0005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="300" data-original-width="400" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq8K6lxuNUXKbN7bQnxUrDo7aFx1vdfGQHi0Tf8OO9HKxVgtoAIqXPvdIlZJbKBKRJ4DRJSg158YnMmSt2_K4ArgAi1NcYM3vy7NcPceE2g_pB3PR8u9LqaOGhu-QniR3uRhnITOE1eu4/s320/SouthwoldAdnams+0005.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Having made the decision to visit Suffolk’s east coast at
such short notice, finding accommodation for a group of four adults and a
toddler took a little more time to arrange.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>In the end, fortunately, we were delighted to find a place to stay about
twenty minutes inland<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn1" name="_ednref1" style="mso-endnote-id: edn1;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[i]</span></span></span></span></a>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Glamping is the neologism.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Our accommodation for two nights was based on an isolated
rural farmstead in the scenic Waveney Valley. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It offered us a genuine Mongolian yurt </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXYvcrt8gKDMeaP2s9HRKmC0VER6hHTr1QMdQCsjqJBCBuNBruYuyNENVB6g1zOCWZQXIBAgc3zloCskT-4HWzYr2BeSLp8eKaD-v9lR-ecI5OoQKFI8jKvimoIq2Ouw2eXntgnzSa8yw/s1600/IMG-20170623-WA0007.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXYvcrt8gKDMeaP2s9HRKmC0VER6hHTr1QMdQCsjqJBCBuNBruYuyNENVB6g1zOCWZQXIBAgc3zloCskT-4HWzYr2BeSLp8eKaD-v9lR-ecI5OoQKFI8jKvimoIq2Ouw2eXntgnzSa8yw/s320/IMG-20170623-WA0007.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJxsM8nsWv6auUGqrbj60xieSTZ3JeAL1JhqBWG0in8UjidDZxAHulGR65SOC_WvRdz9aN3kzbi4nfi9hPSBAlAnVKoqbq9ChXZIP_QrdcMelCPaxpx5gKdrEo60uIl7eita716Iw6uLM/s1600/IMG-20170624-WA0000.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJxsM8nsWv6auUGqrbj60xieSTZ3JeAL1JhqBWG0in8UjidDZxAHulGR65SOC_WvRdz9aN3kzbi4nfi9hPSBAlAnVKoqbq9ChXZIP_QrdcMelCPaxpx5gKdrEo60uIl7eita716Iw6uLM/s320/IMG-20170624-WA0000.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">together with a conventional annexe (to the main farmhouse) which supplied all of the facilities we needed to be self-catering.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">That said, the only meal we prepared was breakfast on both days.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A relaxing and tranquil rural idyll.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQbKiAOcUzA-Sm7ZJdmIbhkp8OMBfMRjRfSHejy3fbMkj49hzbeFuZUdprdEGvtC0F3mP-sQiNQO7soLlH6ZO7n0PETiwvDYfjRfxinUDVdpf7O0eNt887Q6ErPZJWvZj9DaH-p-nDlho/s1600/IMG-20170624-WA0012.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQbKiAOcUzA-Sm7ZJdmIbhkp8OMBfMRjRfSHejy3fbMkj49hzbeFuZUdprdEGvtC0F3mP-sQiNQO7soLlH6ZO7n0PETiwvDYfjRfxinUDVdpf7O0eNt887Q6ErPZJWvZj9DaH-p-nDlho/s400/IMG-20170624-WA0012.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Sam’s eloquent testimonial summed up our thoughts:-</span></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">“Celeste and Sergei were
wonderful and welcoming hosts. We were a family of 5, grandparents, parents and
a three year old. The Yurt and the annexe were clean and very comfortable, our
three year old loved the 'adventure' and sleeping in the big tent. Local beer
in the fridge, milk, eggs from the farm and a range of supplies for breakfast
were very much appreciated. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The garden
is beautiful and walking around the farm is a pleasure. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The goats and numerous chickens were friendly
and another great addition for our son. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Would return without hesitation.”</span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><u>The west of Ireland</u></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Two weeks later accompanied by Jennifer’s older sister,
Deirdre and her two daughters (who live in the magnificent Scottish Highlands),
we drove the 170 mile journey from Belfast to Ballina in County Mayo.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>Based on a friend’s recommendation, we booked
a self-catering lakeside lodge which is part of a hotel<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn2" name="_ednref2" style="mso-endnote-id: edn2;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[ii]</span></span></span></span></a> two miles south of the
town.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Situated in the successfully-marketed Wild Atlantic Way
which includes Ireland’s west coast, Mount Falcon itself is set in 100 acres of
its own estate parkland.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Appropriately,
it offers displays of falconry, they also have hawks, and visitors can engage in
rural sports including clay pigeon shooting and archery.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjky9xnoZboKIu57A7FTUlwZ81FwHHx0sIUCB7hoqgp9sOSc9leuGo_3NiKuZIpQskr8EYBMBYJsXEnYvPskql6248_7eXEBJQKgqs-0ckcL70ByI2rkD5efUlAL8cK753sJ3DbRLc9KCg/s1600/IMAG0913.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="894" data-original-width="1600" height="178" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjky9xnoZboKIu57A7FTUlwZ81FwHHx0sIUCB7hoqgp9sOSc9leuGo_3NiKuZIpQskr8EYBMBYJsXEnYvPskql6248_7eXEBJQKgqs-0ckcL70ByI2rkD5efUlAL8cK753sJ3DbRLc9KCg/s320/IMAG0913.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A peregrine falcon with handler</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0EmdSfDAiEYUcShj4dcpN6BYvtNzDxF_Jewnqg3ZtRsp4TpHD_1wZb8WgigsLxLNE_dav3DEdAadmo0tS03Zui75JjLL5ZWZUlaofIy1Anj5cMsdhWGv0CNQzF5MGm7f2CIkQj3LHbA8/s1600/IMG-20170717-WA0002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1328" data-original-width="747" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0EmdSfDAiEYUcShj4dcpN6BYvtNzDxF_Jewnqg3ZtRsp4TpHD_1wZb8WgigsLxLNE_dav3DEdAadmo0tS03Zui75JjLL5ZWZUlaofIy1Anj5cMsdhWGv0CNQzF5MGm7f2CIkQj3LHbA8/s320/IMG-20170717-WA0002.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A harris hawk sitting on a neighbour's car</td></tr>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">But what a tranquil location, both by day and by night - in
spite of all of the activity.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">If anybody
out there wants to escape to a peaceful place where you will be well fed either
to write a book or to compose a symphony, this estate would be an inspirational
choice.</span>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">On the first of our three evenings, I was walking past
the lake opposite our lodge and heard what sounded like someone dropping a
stone into the water.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I looked around and
dispensed with that theory, there being nobody else nearby. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then I heard the same sound again.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Looking at the lake, I spotted a fish leaping
straight up to catch an insect.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>What a
sight.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Our gorgeous little lake is full
of trout.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Next morning I ventured out for a short bike ride.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On the 6 mile stretch of road from the hotel
to Foxford (with its woollen mills), I noticed several signs for fisheries, a
larger sign advertising the Ballina Salmon Festival starting the week after our
departure, and places to eat and drink like the Mayfly Inn.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is a theme here.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Later that day, my wife told me that she had spotted a flier describing Ballina as the salmon capital of Ireland.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghdiau7Z4bzcaD_pQicHkpc6WQ8bbkbsMDC9YwpEQIQO3LECOXtdqslzz7To8SN9ltsL0a_-kgCf3ksYbpix-Twood3i9aO_9a8sqJDNprKOR_uVxiwjpoqm0X_Fif7IJ8o5C4q_XqKm0/s1600/IMAG0939.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="894" data-original-width="1600" height="111" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghdiau7Z4bzcaD_pQicHkpc6WQ8bbkbsMDC9YwpEQIQO3LECOXtdqslzz7To8SN9ltsL0a_-kgCf3ksYbpix-Twood3i9aO_9a8sqJDNprKOR_uVxiwjpoqm0X_Fif7IJ8o5C4q_XqKm0/s200/IMAG0939.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mayo salmon on the Mount Falcon menu</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Ballina, Foxford and Mount Falcon are situated on the
River Moy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The ardent fisherman,
legendary English footballer and former manager of the Ireland football team,
Jack Charlton, was so impressed with Ballina that he bought a house there.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Its back garden faced the River Moy.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">For the purposes of keeping our two grandchildren amused,
the hotel’s spacious grounds with leaping trout and its other wildlife, especially
ducks, were perfect for some nature study especially when weather conditions
were so favourable.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHdv3yGB0bthIwH20Z9TVbRu8la0qk6QUdD15qRXMQbghVVUR9MgUDu4pkoorB6dzENhSHDFHMAQTaSgyIg0fJxQwB7hsfI59Mq_x7PF5QZCQ9xLSU3wVtz8Iz2PrYf_1sXVCJy3pYHnA/s1600/IMG-20170706-WA0008.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1328" data-original-width="747" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHdv3yGB0bthIwH20Z9TVbRu8la0qk6QUdD15qRXMQbghVVUR9MgUDu4pkoorB6dzENhSHDFHMAQTaSgyIg0fJxQwB7hsfI59Mq_x7PF5QZCQ9xLSU3wVtz8Iz2PrYf_1sXVCJy3pYHnA/s400/IMG-20170706-WA0008.jpg" width="225" /></a></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In addition there
was a kids club in the morning, after which we would bring them to the hotel’s
swimming pool before heading off into Ballina for lunch.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Just like our earlier visit to East Anglia, the beach was
the best alternative attraction.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It must
be at least fifteen years ago since Marie and I last visited the nearby County
Sligo town of Enniscrone.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This was the
opportunity to introduce new members of our family to its sand dunes and beach
with loads of sea swimmers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Candy floss
and an arcade of amusements were predictably popular with our two young
visitors.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1Qs09_gbCZnSqOjTN-fELCRyd-9tV2LPrPhXLk4GYsebUKzdxa0S2294wAvOpb7pYPTlHSpf2awgDuHbzdKbngyQ7fgOgDdF4Kl1nBi8p9qRvq6cHnu0nNQPnBRqYFEb8igrTKTWULbM/s1600/IMG-20170706-WA0011.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="747" data-original-width="1328" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1Qs09_gbCZnSqOjTN-fELCRyd-9tV2LPrPhXLk4GYsebUKzdxa0S2294wAvOpb7pYPTlHSpf2awgDuHbzdKbngyQ7fgOgDdF4Kl1nBi8p9qRvq6cHnu0nNQPnBRqYFEb8igrTKTWULbM/s400/IMG-20170706-WA0011.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The abiding memory I took away from that earlier visit
was attending the Hot Seaweed Baths.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>This Edwardian institution has been operated by the same family for over
100 years<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn3" name="_ednref3" style="mso-endnote-id: edn3;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[iii]</span></span></span></span></a>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">On this return trip, I was delighted to see
that it is still as popular as ever.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw8wuebhTt-GtFbzxTkCDx9wdaaGi-rbWAeq7w1jkrKAqKP-D4SBClcHcxuNhK2mKMkakS_DGObbleBPM6NC39OEnCtsCLUNHLhEKa2DfvrHCh76KXwsyHS9pQ7qfiJjkE_lfndU3JN2A/s1600/IMAG0929.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="894" data-original-width="1600" height="355" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw8wuebhTt-GtFbzxTkCDx9wdaaGi-rbWAeq7w1jkrKAqKP-D4SBClcHcxuNhK2mKMkakS_DGObbleBPM6NC39OEnCtsCLUNHLhEKa2DfvrHCh76KXwsyHS9pQ7qfiJjkE_lfndU3JN2A/s640/IMAG0929.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Ballina’s charm was well diagnosed by my daughter who
knows a bit about retail therapy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Almost
in the planning parlance that her father might use about town centre health
checks, she astutely observed that it has a reasonable number of national
multiples, but that these are well outnumbered by local businesses.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Their presence adds an emphatic local accent
and individuality to Ballina’s shopping offer.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">On a pleasant summer’s day where else would you want to
be – apart from Enniscrone’s seaweed baths or maybe its beach - or Southwold’s
golden sands.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>The west of Ireland and
the east of England, a broad horizon, perfect for short breaks.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Both have beauty in spades.</span><br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpf3IE6ablMNF8lUz0NMKWgXzIf52cHD42z04AgFIzMiqgKdRTx35j4EFntN0VqWWVAPblItmJv9fDl2i22c9FOYdaf6zG9w00pAolQGDwmh3PlrsA635nWZjwT17rGx6oUiEwajE4tJg/s1600/IMG-20170706-WA0004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="894" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpf3IE6ablMNF8lUz0NMKWgXzIf52cHD42z04AgFIzMiqgKdRTx35j4EFntN0VqWWVAPblItmJv9fDl2i22c9FOYdaf6zG9w00pAolQGDwmh3PlrsA635nWZjwT17rGx6oUiEwajE4tJg/s320/IMG-20170706-WA0004.jpg" width="178" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lakeside lodges Mount Falcon Ballina</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzY4hWhD9zXFtsanR9Lc4RnTx1nNANp2JHx3j-d52nR1M-BWMCIZpgBnB-DaSxN2zdHHWdgWz1lK2qoW4GH9lsG8db6Q-0NTMV90LwPfjpPx0dDr7zW3blfqbWExd32TpkiD8aQBQGJOI/s1600/SouthwoldPierBeachHuts0003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="365" data-original-width="550" height="132" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzY4hWhD9zXFtsanR9Lc4RnTx1nNANp2JHx3j-d52nR1M-BWMCIZpgBnB-DaSxN2zdHHWdgWz1lK2qoW4GH9lsG8db6Q-0NTMV90LwPfjpPx0dDr7zW3blfqbWExd32TpkiD8aQBQGJOI/s200/SouthwoldPierBeachHuts0003.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beach huts in Southwold</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">©Michael McSorley 2017</span></div>
<div style="mso-element: endnote-list;">
<br clear="all" />
<hr align="left" size="1" width="33%" />
<div id="edn1" style="mso-element: endnote;">
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref1" name="_edn1" style="mso-endnote-id: edn1;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[i]</span></span></span></span></a> https://www.airbnb.co.uk/rooms/14330010</div>
</div>
<div id="edn2" style="mso-element: endnote;">
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref2" name="_edn2" style="mso-endnote-id: edn2;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[ii]</span></span></span></span></a> http://www.mountfalcon.com/gallery/hotel/72-10/</div>
</div>
<div id="edn3" style="mso-element: endnote;">
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref3" name="_edn3" style="mso-endnote-id: edn3;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[iii]</span></span></span></span></a> https://www.kilcullenseaweedbaths.net/</div>
</div>
</div>
Michael McSorleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06352593190581090069noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1873197369166122223.post-36663388787740951592017-04-29T07:14:00.000-07:002017-04-29T07:14:12.290-07:00The Greek Easter<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Forty-five years ago this month I visited Greece for the
first time. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>That’s a nano-second in
archaeological time.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We were a group of
conscientious students (if that’s not too much of an oxymoron), there to learn
about the urban planning of the ancient Greeks.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Our party went to the island of Rhodes and a variety of classical sites,
almost mythical in their legend.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>These included
Delphi, Epidaurus, Olympia and the Parthenon on the mainland Peloponnese.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This month, my wife and I together with our daughter, her
husband and son went on a two-week holiday to Crete, less academic in intent,
but nonetheless keen to include some exploration of the island’s archaeological and
religious culture. This activity would act as an occasional diversion from swimming, sun-bathing and
fine dining.</span><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOenpkWe3TzSWcwjwfTWKk9VZCh0iXvP-siIESIdaM0bvuLuXZcyYgBdqwfGfV23H5rxhhN1-WGkhgmjHob1mQIOB2cJ_a1VqPeAnLJEfRBp3xrpFhA_ooUu13H967qOdIkwE1PueOfvM/s1600/IMG-20170409-WA0002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOenpkWe3TzSWcwjwfTWKk9VZCh0iXvP-siIESIdaM0bvuLuXZcyYgBdqwfGfV23H5rxhhN1-WGkhgmjHob1mQIOB2cJ_a1VqPeAnLJEfRBp3xrpFhA_ooUu13H967qOdIkwE1PueOfvM/s320/IMG-20170409-WA0002.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
</div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">One thing we missed in 1972 was the Greek Easter, which
had been much vaunted by our lecturers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It
may have been Easter at home, but that was one of those years when the Julian
calendar did not coincide with the Gregorian equivalent that rules in western
countries.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>With the two Easters falling
on the same day in 2017, this visit included the climax of the Christian
calendar, celebrated as such with pomp and ceremony in both Christian traditions.</span></div>
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<u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></u></div>
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<u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Knossos</span></u></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">My personal priority on this tour - after family activity
in two beach resorts - was to see the island’s cradling of civilisation that
existed more than 4000 years ago.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">From
around 2000 BC, the Minoans developed Europe’s first real civilisation right
here in Crete.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>With unexpected hyperbole the Rough
Guide proclaims that “their artworks are unsurpassed anywhere in the ancient world.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For 500 years, Crete was home to a
civilisation well ahead of its time.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It would be discourteous not to see them. The greatest of the Minoan palaces is at Knossos and it lies just outside
the island’s capital Heraklion.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzvd7uwXs0A6e1we_y1-wCLhKG4Ieib5NubrjkQFyfSE7FpAItOAOCJ3CD1Q_py5dB_bvJ0EJhFQyyFxzpxEvkTiycCrH30vyueYL1eW_e_F2IQP-V6cgkK89H3I24chtSRfSeGo1NaHo/s1600/IMAG0766.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="178" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzvd7uwXs0A6e1we_y1-wCLhKG4Ieib5NubrjkQFyfSE7FpAItOAOCJ3CD1Q_py5dB_bvJ0EJhFQyyFxzpxEvkTiycCrH30vyueYL1eW_e_F2IQP-V6cgkK89H3I24chtSRfSeGo1NaHo/s320/IMAG0766.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir4sHFUs_ldm5BeHItLVQ5r8sESGx7p54kS2hMKksXjK-4sf5x8WBK4jLvVWBNfeb1iW94TuskxWSjb9MP7Hw78NmpcaRGDEoyjuSrcTH5TUxh_a5JcIiiKK-zmy7wSCQlze68R4HaiQQ/s1600/IMAG0767.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="355" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir4sHFUs_ldm5BeHItLVQ5r8sESGx7p54kS2hMKksXjK-4sf5x8WBK4jLvVWBNfeb1iW94TuskxWSjb9MP7Hw78NmpcaRGDEoyjuSrcTH5TUxh_a5JcIiiKK-zmy7wSCQlze68R4HaiQQ/s640/IMAG0767.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div>
</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFIn4nmmgv_3vfIffxnASzok7WA5oERI60dbe35a6Kaq8Fg599ygmT_smh8BMoGlNGdCW4-El9Zp3iIsmR0FcqP811sR3-EX5H7ors5WYE3W4IknB4GYtnWwClIY9s5oeVSicUEempgbQ/s1600/IMAG0801.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFIn4nmmgv_3vfIffxnASzok7WA5oERI60dbe35a6Kaq8Fg599ygmT_smh8BMoGlNGdCW4-El9Zp3iIsmR0FcqP811sR3-EX5H7ors5WYE3W4IknB4GYtnWwClIY9s5oeVSicUEempgbQ/s400/IMAG0801.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The official site brochure acknowledges the role of an
English archaeologist Sir Arthur Evans both in the excavation and
reconstruction of the palace.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>His
sculptural image is the first object to greet visitors inside the entrance.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifOg4xCdtGRbyHRce833Q_Hu-1uJKndYs0r-oNDk7VQ90jSUEFyL0igcYDYcpHUlfq5ayrjnTMjun60Mj2xKfovwmR35fILamxDpm9b0OJOgIe8NwjyeJGSW5WwjDqsR9v56aw-DglUWw/s1600/IMG-20170425-WA0002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifOg4xCdtGRbyHRce833Q_Hu-1uJKndYs0r-oNDk7VQ90jSUEFyL0igcYDYcpHUlfq5ayrjnTMjun60Mj2xKfovwmR35fILamxDpm9b0OJOgIe8NwjyeJGSW5WwjDqsR9v56aw-DglUWw/s320/IMG-20170425-WA0002.jpg" width="180" /></a></span></span></div>
</div>
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<br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The palace covered 20,000 square metres set
around a large central court.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
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<br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I’m going
to have to return because we didn’t have time to visit Heraklion Archaeological
Museum which houses the site’s beautiful artworks, pottery, vessels, figurines
and the original wall paintings.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Venetian occupation</span></u></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Crete’s history is one of occupation on a regular basis.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Apart from the Minoans (said to have come
from Anatolia), the island has been subject to Rome, Byzantium, Venice and the
Turkish Ottoman Empire.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>As if this
litany wasn’t long enough, it was invaded by the Germans during World War 2.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Of these occupiers, the most noticeable
influence for us as holidaymakers was the Venetian settlement.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Two fortresses stand out as examples of the endeavours of
development by the Venetians on the island’s north coast.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>Rethymno’s Venetian fortress, or Fortezza,
sits on a hill at the eastern side of the city on the seafront.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>According to the Rough Guide, it is said to
be the largest Venetian Castle ever built and is indeed of vast scale.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">It was built as a response to pirate raids
that devastated the town in the late 1500’s.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Its failure to protect Rethymno from a Turkish invasion fifty years
later, however, says something about the Venetians’ defensive effectiveness.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">As a place for a leisurely visit or a concert and
somewhere to enjoy spectacular views, it is an inexpensive must.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span><br />
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</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiImbv8ijfH2LGhvvJJJTPNx3IKBi1RhVluCbgjHpmBIsiit0ZEuTGs8u0i9KZXdxcYKOmeu2M_j0R-Ubme9pMeAd2xKdbgup0JwseE6t3CI5R98xGZA9KR34n4G0H4Dg_FLYvg0-AvkQg/s1600/IMAG0701.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="178" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiImbv8ijfH2LGhvvJJJTPNx3IKBi1RhVluCbgjHpmBIsiit0ZEuTGs8u0i9KZXdxcYKOmeu2M_j0R-Ubme9pMeAd2xKdbgup0JwseE6t3CI5R98xGZA9KR34n4G0H4Dg_FLYvg0-AvkQg/s320/IMAG0701.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCXUodzay6paPsgwJWcxNPF14hRId63563YbEYWKXFl6h4q8a-vdvgQS9eVy1YVx7dTTSvOL0jKvOA7vjbTW-vog2y9cFRKAZr7qk_TM9jUK8BV3j2MiAd1_A_js3sjnW6RXt8plP5nz4/s1600/IMAG0704.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="178" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCXUodzay6paPsgwJWcxNPF14hRId63563YbEYWKXFl6h4q8a-vdvgQS9eVy1YVx7dTTSvOL0jKvOA7vjbTW-vog2y9cFRKAZr7qk_TM9jUK8BV3j2MiAd1_A_js3sjnW6RXt8plP5nz4/s320/IMAG0704.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Restoration of Heraklion’s Venetian Fortress has been
completed within the last year or so in most impressive style.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A visit creates a more accurate impression of
what a functioning Fortezza would have looked like.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
restored building is replete with stories set out on panels describing the
history and of the lengthy process of restoration.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSLHaajPZ1zbpelenWAEAV43dU5n347JQdWN0HO-zr5QnJV1NedfSBkqm5HjkqOsjIcyUOmfX_m6f6dFBEe-nEBsLPdk_e0QjJUGmcFgAVvRjufqQsCRjBk307yssGoZMZNKbhWMbQYfE/s1600/IMAG0808.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="178" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSLHaajPZ1zbpelenWAEAV43dU5n347JQdWN0HO-zr5QnJV1NedfSBkqm5HjkqOsjIcyUOmfX_m6f6dFBEe-nEBsLPdk_e0QjJUGmcFgAVvRjufqQsCRjBk307yssGoZMZNKbhWMbQYfE/s320/IMAG0808.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></span></div>
</div>
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<br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">One
unexpected bonus is the collection of artefacts found submerged in the sea and donated
to the city by the French explorer Jacques Cousteau. This is another
inexpensive must-see project.</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF5kWlXGgv4C4xyXXIrjemV79zgtbfywGtHYdgdj1aafaaGUUoLOK8WiS8bhyKWIxzslf3UFqS2IolJe1Wnr-_QytvnuF9gMSJl08JVbY4cqRZesU1ArK2mbKJFJAyxM5L7VUbSKHHyrc/s1600/IMAG0810.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF5kWlXGgv4C4xyXXIrjemV79zgtbfywGtHYdgdj1aafaaGUUoLOK8WiS8bhyKWIxzslf3UFqS2IolJe1Wnr-_QytvnuF9gMSJl08JVbY4cqRZesU1ArK2mbKJFJAyxM5L7VUbSKHHyrc/s400/IMAG0810.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The Greek Easter Ceremonial</span></u></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">An unexpected highlight of our holiday was to witness the
Greek Easter midnight mass, marking the end of Lenten fasting. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">When we checked into our hotel on Good Friday
afternoon, it was gratifyingly apparent that we were not going to be surrounded
exclusively by foreign visitors like ourselves.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>A large influx of Greek people were also arriving specifically to celebrate Easter.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Despite the crowds in the lobby, we were welcomed warmly
by a senior member of staff.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>She advised
us that we could attend the religious ceremony on Saturday night in the
Orthodox Church that lies within the hotel’s grounds.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">She explained that in the early hours of
Easter Sunday morning after the midnight mass, Cretans dine on lamb and other
meats, with bouzouki music an important part of the celebrations.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Shortly before 11 o’clock, we made our way in the dark to the hotel’s
very own Church and joined the substantial congregation most of whom were
standing in the outside space around the front of the building.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Before the prayers began, there was a regular
stream of family groups making their way inside to light their long thin
candles and place them upright on the special table.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The small number of foreign tourists present
had also been presented with candles.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Nice to be made to feel welcome.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Eventually, two priests began a series of arcane chants
lasting over half an hour, culminating in prayers involving responses from the congregation,
the only one of which I recognised was the Kyrie Eleison. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">As the chanting drew to a conclusion, some Cretans emerged from the Church bearing the paschal candle-light. Gradually it was shared from candle to candle and quickly spread in a most convivial way to the hundreds of people gathered. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>Then to my huge surprise and accompanied by
the frantic ringing of the Church’s small bell, an impressive display of
fireworks changed the atmosphere from solemn to something more like a huge
release of adrenalin.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I don’t know if it
was by accident or design, but both the bell-ringing and fireworks ended
exactly together in perfect synchronicity.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">As
soon as the firework display ended and I checked my mobile phone for the time. It showed 00:00. It seemed almost miraculous that that it was
exactly midnight. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Easter Sunday had arrived with a huge bang.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Fireworks displays, I learned later, are a normal part of the Greek Easter
ritual<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn1" name="_ednref1" style="mso-endnote-id: edn1;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[i]</span></span></span></span></a>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The thought occurred that this
might be something for the western Christian Churches to think about
replicating.</span></div>
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<u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Family holiday</span></u></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">We arrived on 5 April at the very start of the Cretan
holiday season, instanced by the fact that many restaurants and hotels had not
yet opened.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">We spent our first night in
a good hotel<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn2" name="_ednref2" style="mso-endnote-id: edn2;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[ii]</span></span></span></span></a>
in Chania Town (about 10 miles from the airport).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We then stayed for just over a week in a
family-oriented “beach resort” hotel<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn3" name="_ednref3" style="mso-endnote-id: edn3;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[iii]</span></span></span></span></a> next to Kaylves town
with our daughter, son-in-law and grandson; and an extra few days further east in a beach
resort hotel in Rethymno<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn4" name="_ednref4" style="mso-endnote-id: edn4;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[iv]</span></span></span></span></a>.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Before and after the hectic activity of the Greek Easter
weekend, the resort hotels were otherwise very under-crowded on the first and
final days of our visit.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This meant more
time and space for enjoying the simple pleasures of a beach holiday.</span><br />
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<u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></u></div>
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<u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Dining tips</span></u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The best Greek restaurant (outside of the resort hotels)
was not the high-end Avli set in a converted Venetian palace but the more
modest Bakalogatos in the busy heart of Rethymno’s old town.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After eating a substantial two-course starter
and main course late lunch, on asking for our bill we were served with a large
plateful of Greek donuts covered in chocolate and a free shot of raki.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The best coffee shop was the modern Grampous<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn5" name="_ednref5" style="mso-endnote-id: edn5;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[v]</span></span></span></span></a> which bakes its own bread,
cakes, bread sticks - all following Granny’s handed-down recipes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It also makes its own ice cream. On our final
day en route to the airport, the owners’ daughters gave us complimentary
home-made biscuits and bread-sticks for our journey home. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>From there we travelled by taxi to Rethmyno
bus station and took the bus on the scenic hour-long coastal journey back to
Chania airport.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDwhvJj5pk5g49RUeI5QSZ73M5v4dGMEvJ5pv8fN2Qf4R1eiyUzCwLFRkUBBaTunUR-4kh-0V7WgLMfFabHfM85QQt3s47CHy99UIM41CIq_MVdDTWmHw4bbvewwRZ3-BssEqxmfHJf1g/s1600/IMG-20170420-WA0001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDwhvJj5pk5g49RUeI5QSZ73M5v4dGMEvJ5pv8fN2Qf4R1eiyUzCwLFRkUBBaTunUR-4kh-0V7WgLMfFabHfM85QQt3s47CHy99UIM41CIq_MVdDTWmHw4bbvewwRZ3-BssEqxmfHJf1g/s320/IMG-20170420-WA0001.jpg" width="179" /></a></span></div>
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<span lang="ES-TRAD" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">©Michael McSorley
2017</span></div>
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<div style="mso-element: endnote-list;">
<br clear="all" />
<hr align="left" size="1" width="33%" />
<div id="edn1" style="mso-element: endnote;">
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref1" name="_edn1" style="mso-endnote-id: edn1;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[i]</span></span></span></span></a> http://www.visitgreece.gr/en/religion/easter_in_greece</div>
</div>
<div id="edn2" style="mso-element: endnote;">
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref2" name="_edn2" style="mso-endnote-id: edn2;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[ii]</span></span></span></span></a>
Kriti Hotel, Chania</div>
</div>
<div id="edn3" style="mso-element: endnote;">
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref3" name="_edn3" style="mso-endnote-id: edn3;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[iii]</span></span></span></span></a>
Kiani Beach resort, Kalyves<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>www.seacretehotels.com</div>
</div>
<div id="edn4" style="mso-element: endnote;">
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref4" name="_edn4" style="mso-endnote-id: edn4;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[iv]</span></span></span></span></a>
Aquila Rithymna Beach</div>
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<div id="edn5" style="mso-element: endnote;">
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref5" name="_edn5" style="mso-endnote-id: edn5;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[v]</span></span></span></span></a> 350
metres from Aquila Beach hotel towards Rethymna centre</div>
</div>
</div>
Michael McSorleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06352593190581090069noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1873197369166122223.post-14967999470649956042016-10-27T07:48:00.000-07:002016-10-27T07:48:47.960-07:00Homage to Barcelona<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">Let me try the impossible - to
summarise personal impressions of Barcelona </span><span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">in a couple of pages</span>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Th<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">e opinions are</span> based on two visits there in six
years.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">“Barcelo-o-na,” as sung so exuberantly and
with such emphatic national fervour by the Catalonian capital’s operatic diva </span><span lang="CA" style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">Monserrat Caballé</span><span lang="CA" style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;"> </span><span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">in a duet with Freddie Mercury. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">This was my
modernist operatic image of the city that hosted the 1992 Olympics, when BBC
television adopted the Queen song to introduce its coverage.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>The exhilaration of the musical theme
heightened my anticipation of our first visit in early autumn 2010.</span><span style="color: black; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">Emerging from our nearby hotel, helpfully located only about 100 metres off the city's main throughfare, my first
surprise was to encounter Las </span><span lang="CA" style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">Ramblas</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;"> heaving with
people<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">. This, after all was</span> <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">a</span> midweek in October. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">After viewing the city from the nearby
portside Columbus Monument, an American tourist informed me that today was a public
holiday marking the discovery of America.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>I had begun to wonder that if these crowds are typical of autumn, what
must the peak of summer be like.</span><span style="color: black; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;"></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">Las </span><span lang="CA" style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">Ramblas</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;"> has the air of a permanent
carnival. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There are countless stands and kiosks,
some selling exotic flowers, others selling assorted fluffy pets. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“Living sculptures” abound. Barcelona takes mime artistry to a sublime
level. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijK2RzJolA3SuxV6qowRAcyPBh1j41gz2NgGMo0joNkFzwtfVXz_MyKdx7iyq7QvjfzbR23UIOseLQaL3zQq4h_-RwJfxbr6RsltlDGshmkuGnIhgzipuYk80-0MTZ8nujgsikQMorOOU/s1600/DSCF4735.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijK2RzJolA3SuxV6qowRAcyPBh1j41gz2NgGMo0joNkFzwtfVXz_MyKdx7iyq7QvjfzbR23UIOseLQaL3zQq4h_-RwJfxbr6RsltlDGshmkuGnIhgzipuYk80-0MTZ8nujgsikQMorOOU/s320/DSCF4735.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCieXteoKgbWZPRDmVOZ2iG7ShxJMkRUKjNlMXjGEwmic459U_9FngbiuDtsi2Hkk7Pi7naHA5nGicxlTS6nj4K1celKt0dGpbFp-H7Y20w4K5Kj9za4slGBiFbUjj8bYHF2kor1-aZs0/s1600/DSCF4736.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCieXteoKgbWZPRDmVOZ2iG7ShxJMkRUKjNlMXjGEwmic459U_9FngbiuDtsi2Hkk7Pi7naHA5nGicxlTS6nj4K1celKt0dGpbFp-H7Y20w4K5Kj9za4slGBiFbUjj8bYHF2kor1-aZs0/s200/DSCF4736.JPG" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSPsHFVXPcFgTLlzwPUCyPaMJWVaVU_M3480GdBhZp7nscDQ9jjjq809ENyP4A8YENt_brmIiq499-baCYr7QIhZ3eVjFyPnBv3jpel29bybEWghxpdgSQLpXwlZ-vjiCprmbJ4IBFv7M/s1600/DSCF4737.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSPsHFVXPcFgTLlzwPUCyPaMJWVaVU_M3480GdBhZp7nscDQ9jjjq809ENyP4A8YENt_brmIiq499-baCYr7QIhZ3eVjFyPnBv3jpel29bybEWghxpdgSQLpXwlZ-vjiCprmbJ4IBFv7M/s200/DSCF4737.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">Not content with standing
statuesquely and faces painted to match elaborate and colourful outfits, most
of the city’s street artists play for laughs and obligingly pose for
photographs. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>One had squeezed herself
into a baby’s stroller making jocular squeaking noises, another hid beneath a
table from which three heads - only one of which was his (or hers) - protruded
like grotesque gargoyles.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">The Picasso museum comprehensively traces the development of
the artist’s style ranging from conventional art of his youth to the more
abstract style of his later years. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>I
loved the use of photographic technology to demonstrate his reworking of the
Velazquez masterpiece Las Meninas. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Zooming in, section by section, the slideshow
superimposed Picasso’s swishing brushstrokes over the classic original, much to
everybody’s amusement.</span><span style="color: black; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;"></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">We go to see Bizet’s Carmen in the </span><span lang="CA" style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">Liceu</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;"> Opera House. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The renowned tenor, Roberto Alagna is the
leading male in a modern and risqué production. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It includes 11 Mercedes cars; a naked male
singer grabs our attention; and a voluptuous Carmen unzips the leading man’s
trousers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>All done in the best possible
taste as sleek contemporary style meets classical genius.</span><span style="color: black; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;"></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">Gaudi is the pervading influence. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In bright autumnal sunshine, we tour the city
on an open top bus. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>His “expiatory”
cathedral, the </span><span lang="CA" style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">Sagrada
Familia</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">, is a hectic building site (and still is when we return in September
2016). <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">Sparks fly from celestial heights
as teams of artisans work furiously. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A
Papal visit beckons.</span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>A century ago,
Gaudi steadfastly refused to give a deadline because (and I love this quotation),
“my client is not in a hurry.” <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Mi Dios.</span><span style="color: black; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;"></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">Park </span><span lang="CA" style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">Guell</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;"> sees </span><span lang="CA" style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">Gaudi’s</span><span lang="CA" style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;"> </span><span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">riotous imagination at its creative best - buildings eschewing
straight lines and features embellished with fairyland ornamentation. The
very entrance pavilions look like wholesome and tasty gingerbread concoctions.</span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">It is only after the event that the impact of
our visit sinks in.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span><br />
<span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">My impression is
that Barcelona likes to shock to impress. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><span lang="CA" style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">Gaudi’s</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;"> architecture, the development of Picasso’s
art, the radical production of Carmen, the </span><span lang="CA" style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">Ramblas</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;"> entertainers -
all break the rules and conventions.</span><span style="color: black; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;"></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">Perhaps Barcelona is motivated by an
unstoppable urge to emphasise its own identity and to differentiate itself from
Castilian Spain.</span><span style="color: black; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">The result is fantastical creativity, innovation, and joy for
cultural tourists.</span><span style="color: black; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;"></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">Five days is too little time but it gave my
wife and I a good excuse to return.</span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;"> </span> </span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">In 2010, our accommodation was a boutique
hotel on a side street off Las Ramblas.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In 2016, we were self-catering in an
apartment<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn1" name="_ednref1" style="mso-endnote-id: edn1;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[i]</span></span></span></span></a> which
overlooked the Sagrada Familia Cathedral.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> You could almost reach out from the balcony and touch the Cathedral's spires.</span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">On this second visit, we were accompanied by our younge<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">st daughter, her husband and their two-year-old son. A wedding reception in an edge-of-city historic house awa<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">ited. </span></span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpwA-Jr0EIbjEIqpIDhyphenhyphenXf0U5nkzM890LsQW2qB1rGfrQuE-z-c9IhOH5NUtBojNls0LjeD19oNvAolWcrvJkJpeZNkzbxAR5Ttl_GUTaryARx2DAZGUzgetDVYkruWKVbjzl3eaMWkfs/s1600/IMG-20160903-WA0014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpwA-Jr0EIbjEIqpIDhyphenhyphenXf0U5nkzM890LsQW2qB1rGfrQuE-z-c9IhOH5NUtBojNls0LjeD19oNvAolWcrvJkJpeZNkzbxAR5Ttl_GUTaryARx2DAZGUzgetDVYkruWKVbjzl3eaMWkfs/s320/IMG-20160903-WA0014.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">Despite the proximity to the always-popular cathedral, it is reassuring to know that dining out in such a locality is not always dominated by tourists. We found two top-quality<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn2" name="_ednref2" style="mso-endnote-id: edn2;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[ii]</span></span></span></span></a> and good-value
restaurants<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn3" name="_ednref3" style="mso-endnote-id: edn3;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[iii]</span></span></span></span></a>
serving Catalonian cuisine, frequented by local people and located very close
to our apartment.</span><br />
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">I would recommend one book.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">The award-winning author of bestselling
novels like Nora Webster, The Testament of Mary, and Brooklyn is Colm
Tóibín.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He has also written what is,
arguably, the definitive book about th<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">e</span> city and region, “Homage to
Barcelona.”</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">©Michael McSorley 2016</span><span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
<div style="mso-element: endnote-list;">
<br clear="all" />
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<div id="edn1" style="mso-element: endnote;">
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref1" name="_edn1" style="mso-endnote-id: edn1;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[i]</span></span></span></span></a> http://www.sensation-apartments.com/en/sensation-sagrada-familia</div>
</div>
<div id="edn2" style="mso-element: endnote;">
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref2" name="_edn2" style="mso-endnote-id: edn2;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[ii]</span></span></span></span></a> http://www.losbellota.com/</div>
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<div id="edn3" style="mso-element: endnote;">
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref3" name="_edn3" style="mso-endnote-id: edn3;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[iii]</span></span></span></span></a> http://www.restaurantsingular.com/</div>
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Michael McSorleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06352593190581090069noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1873197369166122223.post-25623151524408480542016-06-29T03:27:00.000-07:002016-06-29T03:27:35.673-07:00The Algarve<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<![endif]--><u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">Introduction</span></u><br />
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<br /></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">“Portugal – it’s like
Donegal, only with sunshine.”</span></i></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">I recall this quip from a
work-mate, a description of his favourite golfing destination when I told him
about my impending first trip there back in the 1970’s.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And it is indeed accurate, in a couple of
senses.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">Just as the Irish county is
bolted onto Northern Ireland providing Ulster’s western seaboard, Portugal reveals itself as an appendage
to the Iberian peninsula, almost in the shadow of its larger Spanish
neighbour.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But the most striking
parallel is that both places contain some of Europe’s most beautiful and
inviting beaches.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">That was why the Portugal
was this family’s preferred holiday destination when our children were growing
up.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One or two trips were made to the
country’s west coast near Setubal; but most of those idyllic holidays were spent on the
south coast, the Algarve.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">This year, like a new
awakening, it dawned on us that it had been more than 20 years since visiting
Portugal (apart from one trip to Madeira).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>To prove our resolve, an immediate decision was reached to remedy the <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">shameful </span>deficiency.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But rather than return to
earlier haunts like </span><span lang="PT" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">Alvor</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">, </span><span lang="PT" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">Portimao</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;"> and </span><span lang="PT" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">Albufeira</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">, we decided that the priority this time
would be to explore the eastern Algarve.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">Travel</span></u></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">From Ireland, there are two
principal options for flying to the region’s airport at Faro.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One is Belfast, the other is Dublin.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The former entails a very early start to meet
a 6 a.m. flight departure; whereas the latter offers a late afternoon departure
and a mid-morning return flight.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For
that reason, as well as the benefit of free transport direct to the front door of the airport
terminal (using the senior citizens bus-pass), we booked </span><span lang="GA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">Aer</span><span lang="GA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;"> </span><span lang="GA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">Lingus</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;"> flights from Dublin to Faro.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%;">
<u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">Accomodation</span></u></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">One attraction for
holiday-makers to Portugal is its range of good quality accommodation in
restored buildings of architectural and historic interest.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span></span><span lang="PT" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">Pousadas</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">
describe themselves as small luxury hotels and are spread over the country<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn1" name="_ednref1" style="mso-endnote-id: edn1;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[i]</span></span></span></span></a>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Only three are located in the Algarve.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One sits in the village of </span><span lang="PT" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">Estoi</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;"> which is just north of Faro.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was temptingly described by one travel
writer<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn2" name="_ednref2" style="mso-endnote-id: edn2;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[ii]</span></span></span></span></a> as</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">“for style and luxury combined with
Portuguese panache, base yourself in this Neo-Rococo palace with chandeliers,
mirrors, impressive stucco work...”</span></i></div>
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<br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">Evidence which is <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">h</span>ard to resist.</span><br />
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwygsaKBtLIALFo6q_Nyc4rFczTk6mGw0DYo3iVY0AgEElB-7Ln8BKB4tgQe0ZtaNfDFFLxGunnjIcxCImxIb7rks-SZmKgr9plb3jA7L0g2P10yrzO5PHDYTTBfkIWaoRj2RIHNtxD84/s1600/IMG_1380.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwygsaKBtLIALFo6q_Nyc4rFczTk6mGw0DYo3iVY0AgEElB-7Ln8BKB4tgQe0ZtaNfDFFLxGunnjIcxCImxIb7rks-SZmKgr9plb3jA7L0g2P10yrzO5PHDYTTBfkIWaoRj2RIHNtxD84/s320/IMG_1380.JPG" width="239" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">Arriving in the early
evening, this was a good choice for us being a short drive from the airport.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The late 18<sup>th</sup> century </span><span lang="PT" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">Pousada</span><span lang="PT" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;"> </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">do Palacio
de </span><span lang="PT" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">Estoi</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;"> is a spacious
modernised property in a grand baroque building with Versailles-style gardens.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It has 45 double bedrooms, 15 superior rooms
and three suites. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Its facilities include
outdoor and indoor swimming pools, spa, and wifi.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX0R8jOqUMsi_wUxYWCOlBB8f9WT79lTwwLwJAdGN8_S0TfRQY6a-U75kveFzwcjTNzCv-anVkL-HjvnUp61gGL4z77W0RmU5wQVu8zoJptrOrfp-hYRbmQOZb9n0Uf1tUfrp_jS0tx38/s1600/IMG_1382.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX0R8jOqUMsi_wUxYWCOlBB8f9WT79lTwwLwJAdGN8_S0TfRQY6a-U75kveFzwcjTNzCv-anVkL-HjvnUp61gGL4z77W0RmU5wQVu8zoJptrOrfp-hYRbmQOZb9n0Uf1tUfrp_jS0tx38/s320/IMG_1382.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">Venturing out without
ambling too far beyond the confines of the village, our first discovery was the
Algarve's premier Roman site<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"> at</span> Milreu.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>This is the location of a Roman villa and a range of associated structures, whose most impressive feature was
a series of beautiful mosaics.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXRgmyjVSAva79LwaDvkHYenBFgvYgqM9twwrDbGP-jrfdK7nMpVqBfj7VuA_qAiu-r2OVQYQV2Udeb5mk-3sBunDmV0KsdGON6Ste8bkGoa3S7bDRUGkkI3wSFwCCh133sh4-mouRnU8/s1600/IMG_1313.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXRgmyjVSAva79LwaDvkHYenBFgvYgqM9twwrDbGP-jrfdK7nMpVqBfj7VuA_qAiu-r2OVQYQV2Udeb5mk-3sBunDmV0KsdGON6Ste8bkGoa3S7bDRUGkkI3wSFwCCh133sh4-mouRnU8/s320/IMG_1313.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">It appears that the affluent Romans built villas with facilities that
are still regarded today as the <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">the essence</span> of luxurious living, such as a spa. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Very civilised.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">One joy of <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">discovering this area in<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"> late spring</span> is the abundance of all sorts of wildflowers. Popp<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">i</span>es thrive. Nature is winning.</span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmmNfvKnby-AaPRKuBWteJhIzn0rm3kqaG1WgQXoiBlFen2z_34CtRLgnfu0bg5Sl1yk-zCLm4NAPHTRdX2I1xqzp3WFkmrjoBx35Xqz-5q7V0i8RQpQcVqYFcBIcXdQJGUkArib5FzJ8/s1600/IMG_1312.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmmNfvKnby-AaPRKuBWteJhIzn0rm3kqaG1WgQXoiBlFen2z_34CtRLgnfu0bg5Sl1yk-zCLm4NAPHTRdX2I1xqzp3WFkmrjoBx35Xqz-5q7V0i8RQpQcVqYFcBIcXdQJGUkArib5FzJ8/s320/IMG_1312.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;"> </span></div>
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<u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">Beaches</span></u></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">We visited two of the most
beautiful beaches anybody could wish for, both accessible (almost
tantalisingly) only by boat.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">The first was the
aptly-named Ilha Deserta.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">We took a boat
from the Porta Nova just outside the walls of Faro’s old town, a trip of about
20 minutes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You sail along shimmering
channels between sandy islets through the Ria Formosa Natural Park wetlands,
emerging onto what appears like the most expansive and deserted sandy beach
ever.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After an hour or more o<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">f</span> relaxing with a good novel and some swimming, there is time for a late lunch in the island’s <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">single</span> restaurant before a return trip back to Faro.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">The other magnificent beach
was <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">thirty</span> kilometres further east, off the pretty town of Tavira.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The ferry-boat to the Ilha Tavira leaves from a
spot close to the town centre at the estuary of the Rio Gilao.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The distance and time to get there is similar
to that for Faro’s deserted island.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0OY0a4idf1yZMfhsxBtoOT211EAVCAjQvpbvnihcdSKeCTmtdNDQhAhkxFx4MNCYuXxM5RL2buZErQuL62Ra5OQuP5PnPgMsrycM6egLj-4PNBjqepAvHRzXzcRQGWvit3nKCRG6bSsE/s1600/IMG_1401.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0OY0a4idf1yZMfhsxBtoOT211EAVCAjQvpbvnihcdSKeCTmtdNDQhAhkxFx4MNCYuXxM5RL2buZErQuL62Ra5OQuP5PnPgMsrycM6egLj-4PNBjqepAvHRzXzcRQGWvit3nKCRG6bSsE/s320/IMG_1401.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>One
difference is that this island is populated with an array of restaurants, all
grouped together and offering a range of prices.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Another difference was that there were more
visitors than on the Ilha Deserta.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>That
said, however, walking for no more than five minutes up the expansive sands and
it was easy to find privacy away from the madding crowd.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Gorgeous sand and crystal clear water once
more.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Bliss.</span></div>
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<u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">Faro,
the old town</span></u></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">A couple of years ago we
spent a week discovering Malaga, through which most tourists pass through from
the airport and head to the costas.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>That
trip was a revelation, partly because Malaga is a fascinating city with many cultural assets and one that is not dominated
by tourism.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> In such resorts, one feels more like a local than a visitor. </span>The same applies to Faro.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">We travelled from </span><span lang="PT" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">Estoi</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;"> into Faro on the local modern bus, offering
the opportunity to gaze at the verdant countryside and its fertile fields
displaying a wide range of horticultural produce including olive groves, orange
trees, and grapevines.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The 8 kilometre
journey took less than half an hour.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">One of the most eye-catching
sights of Faro is storks and their nests.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>These tall skinny-legged birds build the most enormous nests sited
precariously on top of some of the city’s most prominent buildings.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgINhfK0IBzaMnwlFjJB2gpR2lvXTJWgbKHkFWWvGlMeTRpzELnxBB5SYs7DqVUYb8mQzi7g_g_FUrV_8iPRBN1wzgWc_IY7ADRlfN0AioGDKzK_PoFsN1aT8lxWhTSTYX0OokR9fw2SFI/s1600/IMG_1372.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgINhfK0IBzaMnwlFjJB2gpR2lvXTJWgbKHkFWWvGlMeTRpzELnxBB5SYs7DqVUYb8mQzi7g_g_FUrV_8iPRBN1wzgWc_IY7ADRlfN0AioGDKzK_PoFsN1aT8lxWhTSTYX0OokR9fw2SFI/s320/IMG_1372.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Storks' nests (4) on Arco da Vila</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">I observed as tourists risked getting knocked
down attempting to get the impossible photo of these elegant creatures landing
and taking off.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>What a tribute to Faro’s
green credentials and its citizens that they allow nature to co-exist rather
than, as might happen elsewhere, relocate the nests.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx55aKdL313u3cBKklR2tX5TPyUaCf0dpZvm7O1ivdMJ5c-NwxF8W8Ap3H83lnuWLSc3Qt1bRkbJpBYHB-xEG1YJukdgnN9DDtznIhK7zZCCf3lASu6UguXpRsAzLbFSJu9VX0P9dTuF0/s1600/IMG_1342.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx55aKdL313u3cBKklR2tX5TPyUaCf0dpZvm7O1ivdMJ5c-NwxF8W8Ap3H83lnuWLSc3Qt1bRkbJpBYHB-xEG1YJukdgnN9DDtznIhK7zZCCf3lASu6UguXpRsAzLbFSJu9VX0P9dTuF0/s200/IMG_1342.JPG" width="149" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihjwEOCjfztDywtQw4iBYBkVzhBc7fXVkoYOc_NDoGuyGudBYbFI9k4O4F14mb2lrQ0r91gagDtxpuMyJLnUxGIWlBOxTk_Z84fALhSHdGmUlsjvkHpFClSWC2ojyytv4Jj-fJmNzhKfk/s1600/IMG_1347.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihjwEOCjfztDywtQw4iBYBkVzhBc7fXVkoYOc_NDoGuyGudBYbFI9k4O4F14mb2lrQ0r91gagDtxpuMyJLnUxGIWlBOxTk_Z84fALhSHdGmUlsjvkHpFClSWC2ojyytv4Jj-fJmNzhKfk/s200/IMG_1347.JPG" width="149" /></a><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">Entering the old town at the
19<sup>th</sup> century Arco da Vila gateway and its bell tower adorned with
storks nests, we visited the majestic Santa Maria Church, Faro Cathedral.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is the centrepiece of the historic
quarter.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">The Cathedral </span>accommodates eleven or more chapels,
replete with enough religious art and sculptures to keep a saintly person going
for at least a lifetime.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And what a view
from above.</span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj-dGkv-qFR8Lpw6P95YbwnPZoO1EY_y3YkACXUCj3wPSfApyoNCkw7XydBJ729JDi6jaieIe-QIA7uhSnYO_PDsiP0xcT3s0EsyYd-KYTqRISlMt0yCdjNGI2cxaJBf6x679HShybgO8/s1600/IMG_1343.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj-dGkv-qFR8Lpw6P95YbwnPZoO1EY_y3YkACXUCj3wPSfApyoNCkw7XydBJ729JDi6jaieIe-QIA7uhSnYO_PDsiP0xcT3s0EsyYd-KYTqRISlMt0yCdjNGI2cxaJBf6x679HShybgO8/s400/IMG_1343.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View over Faro from the Cathedral</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">Outside the old town, we
visited another large church, the Igreja do Carmo, again full of elaborately
decorated altars, a place for quiet reflection.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Its chief draw for visitors, however, was the almost ghoulish Capela dos
Ossos, or Bones Chapel.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">Apparently, to accommodate
an extension to the mother church, the skeletons of many monks were disinterred
from the adjacent cemetery and to this day their skulls and bones form the neat
interior of this chapel.</span><br />
</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7sJHPp5R1nCFL7m26mushewhjAEOaFPNcx3Wl5sHesvTRHuNXe_IXzHY0lMQq_kd7JpsC9KF9jMrRRk1Im9V0ElidwcJZgwfV-4u24P1UlS94qX87Bxla9wBgdeCdrF51Thwgas-FdbM/s1600/IMG_1390.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7sJHPp5R1nCFL7m26mushewhjAEOaFPNcx3Wl5sHesvTRHuNXe_IXzHY0lMQq_kd7JpsC9KF9jMrRRk1Im9V0ElidwcJZgwfV-4u24P1UlS94qX87Bxla9wBgdeCdrF51Thwgas-FdbM/s320/IMG_1390.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">T<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">his being a holiday,</span> more earthly pleasures merit space<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">.</span> <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">W</span>hile waiting for our return bus to Estoi, we stopped at a cafe across the street from central station for
coffee and cakes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I ordered a triple
pancake smothered in cream, ice cream, strawberries a<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">ll covered in</span> a Chantilly and chocolate sauce.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">A mid afternoon snack like this combined with
pleasant sunshine creates quite a soporific effect.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I suspect this is <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">why I </span>slept <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">most</span> the way back to the Pousada.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvI3PuZAK7xy0yW4hNk2Q5JxVK9DSQIoYNmxSZ6MEzKkypTPsoEt16Z2CmRr3TbiOLi2IKTq9vaF2NIAym4ZDaRv5xrl6rs4QoBdq0D3koGnVd7144f4afZI2BUxesda_0HIC-_CCuAFg/s1600/IMG_1397.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvI3PuZAK7xy0yW4hNk2Q5JxVK9DSQIoYNmxSZ6MEzKkypTPsoEt16Z2CmRr3TbiOLi2IKTq9vaF2NIAym4ZDaRv5xrl6rs4QoBdq0D3koGnVd7144f4afZI2BUxesda_0HIC-_CCuAFg/s640/IMG_1397.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">Tavira</span></u></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">Before setting out on this
visit to the Algarve, a friend at home had recommended a visit to Tavira as the
most pleasant place to visit, unspoilt by mass tourism.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It lies
about 30 kilometres east of Faro, an easy drive for us from <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">Estoi</span>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUpV-VcizKC1-pTyly85As3H9kYec1hMrB0HZPPLc8eGbZNj_iGwbboXm0GAE-kd4XTSJcViTT_iyIpNSGJE2FVQME4AE270LMSEOrs98kdJsF2IT8U6NbUnt6Z6bvAiJyj6eLJFxju5k/s1600/IMG_1406.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="149" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUpV-VcizKC1-pTyly85As3H9kYec1hMrB0HZPPLc8eGbZNj_iGwbboXm0GAE-kd4XTSJcViTT_iyIpNSGJE2FVQME4AE270LMSEOrs98kdJsF2IT8U6NbUnt6Z6bvAiJyj6eLJFxju5k/s200/IMG_1406.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Ilha Tavira ferry</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">Apart from the beach on the Ilha Tavira, the
town’s riverfront was recommended by our guidebook<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn3" name="_ednref3" style="mso-endnote-id: edn3;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[iii]</span></span></span></span></a> as the best place for a
wander.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It leads up to the town’s
central square, the Praca da Republica, where we were met by the magnificent
strains of the best busking jazz band I have ever heard.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Not unlike the Buena Vista Social Club in
tone and quality.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;"><u>Conclusion</u></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;">When we visited in mid-May, apart from some cloud on the first two days, the weather was mostly very pleasant<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"> with temperatures in the low 20's C. Sea temperatures were perfectly acceptable for swimming. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 150%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">All in all, <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">our next visit to Portugal will <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">not take</span> twenty years to organise.</span></span></span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">©Michael McSorley 2016</span><span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
<div style="mso-element: endnote-list;">
<br clear="all" />
<hr align="left" size="1" width="33%" />
<div id="edn1" style="mso-element: endnote;">
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref1" name="_edn1" style="mso-endnote-id: edn1;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[i]</span></span></span></span></a>
www.pousadas.pt</div>
</div>
<div id="edn2" style="mso-element: endnote;">
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref2" name="_edn2" style="mso-endnote-id: edn2;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[ii]</span></span></span></span></a>
Belfast Telegraph Weekend 2 June 2014 Harriet O’Brien 48 Hours in Faro</div>
</div>
<div id="edn3" style="mso-element: endnote;">
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref3" name="_edn3" style="mso-endnote-id: edn3;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[iii]</span></span></span></span></a>
The Rough Guide to Portugal Jan 2014</div>
</div>
</div>
Michael McSorleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06352593190581090069noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1873197369166122223.post-34760789511257077132016-01-29T05:10:00.000-08:002016-02-03T07:36:11.043-08:00Enigmatic Russia<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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</xml><![endif]--><u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Russia is never out of the public consciousness.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">As a friend in England reminded me after reading last
month’s article<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn1" name="_ednref1" style="mso-endnote-id: edn1;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[i]</span></span></span></span></a>,
Churchill described Russia as “a riddle wrapped in a mystery inside an enigma.”</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Perhaps this explains why it features so regularly in
current affairs news reporting and likewise commands our continuing attention in
the cultural media.</span></div>
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<u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Russian News</span></u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Last year (and the year before that), for example, we
heard all about the unrest in the east of Ukraine and consequent criticism
about Russia’s intentions; we witnessed the concern in Europe as Russia annexed
Crimea; in total contrast, international sympathy for Russia was aroused last
autumn when a jet carrying Russian tourists over the Sinai in Egypt was
destroyed by a bomb; the UK Prime Minister and others criticised Russian
airstrikes in Syria, criticism which continues; suspicions harking back to the
Communist era were evoked when Russian athletes were suspended from
international competition following a report produced by the sport’s world
drugs body about global athletics; and the fall-out from the death almost a
decade ago of the former Russian spy Alexander Litvinenko continues with a
public inquiry concluding recently that President Putin “probably” approved of
his murder; which story has been followed by a row over accusations on BBC
Panorama<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn2" name="_ednref2" style="mso-endnote-id: edn2;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[ii]</span></span></span></span></a> by the US Treasury about
President Putin’s “secret wealth.”</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>And
so it goes on.</span></div>
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<u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Russia’s televisual portrayal</span></u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This year, Russia has been given a fantastic public
relations introduction, at least in the UK.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Thanks to the BBC, Russian history and culture ha<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">ve</span> been portrayed in <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">their</span>
finest light with a series of superb documentaries and also by the
dramatization of its greatest novel written by its greatest author.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">On 3 January, a lavish 6-part interpretation of Tolstoy’s
“<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">War and Peace</i><a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn3" name="_ednref3" style="mso-endnote-id: edn3;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[iii]</span></span></span></span></a>” got 2016 off to a
beautiful start for Russophiles and lovers of costume drama alike.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Reviews of the series have been
overwhelmingly positive, and deservedly so.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Where our national broadcaster also excels is in the
non-fictional world of documentary-making.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Early January was lit up brightly by two one-off programmes about
classical music.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Receiving more
publicity was a third documentary which is about the Tsars.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The eminent historian Lucy Worsley has been
explaining in three one-hour programmes entitled “<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Empire of the Tsars</i>” the story of the Russian royal family, the
Romanovs, and its 300 years of history. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>Essential
background that helps us understand the influential country we know today<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn4" name="_ednref4" style="mso-endnote-id: edn4;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[iv]</span></span></span></span></a>.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Having referred last month to Sarah Quigley’s superb novel
(“<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The Conductor</i>”) about the siege of
Leningrad and Shostakovich’s composition of his seventh symphony, the broadcast
on 1 January of “<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Leningrad: the orchestra
that defied Hitler</i>” told the same story factually.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Just like the novel, the documentary was as
thorough as it was realistically upsetting, meticulous and hard-hitting.<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn5" name="_ednref5" style="mso-endnote-id: edn5;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[v]</span></span></span></span></a> <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>It included some persuasive eye-witness
accounts from the St Petersburg concert recounting their version of
half-starved musicians grappling with a complex score.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>Archive footage of the composer and of the
city’s horrendous suffering under siege were also presented.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>I hope that the presenters, Tom Service and
Amanda Vickery, are recognised for the diligence of their research.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The other documentary was “<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The Joy of Rachmaninoff</i>,” a recounting of the compositional life of
this great Romantic composer<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn6" name="_ednref6" style="mso-endnote-id: edn6;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[vi]</span></span></span></span></a> and presented by Tom
Service.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Having referred in last month’s
article to the Rachmaninov Vespers and the performance in Omagh by the
Mariinsky Chorus under Valery Gergiev’s baton in 2000, one revelation resonated
with me.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This was the last Church music
that was written and performed before the Bolsheviks and Lenin took brutal charge
of Mother Russia, banning religion and the composition of sacred music.</span></div>
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<u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Russia in recent books</span></u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Having emphasised last month the role of fiction in
communicating the horrors of despotism and the wonderful novel “<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Child 44</i>,” the publication of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">“On Stalin’s Team: The Years of Living
Dangerously in Soviet Politics” </i>sounds like a factual account of the same
issue, namely the Stalinist purges.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
author is Sheila Fitzpatrick.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The review
which caught my attention<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn7" name="_ednref7" style="mso-endnote-id: edn7;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[vii]</span></span></span></span></a> listed it as Book of the
week.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Aaronovitch explains that this
book sets the record straight, contradicting the official account following
Stalin’s death.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It reveals that Stalin’s
inner circle did in fact play a significant role in the purges, the arrests and
imprisonment of two million people.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This
together with the execution of 688,503 people between 1935 and 40 was not the
work of Stalin alone.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So many victims,
so much horror.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Another recent non-fiction book that stands out is “<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Winter is coming: Why Vladimir Putin and the
Enemies of the Free World Must be Stopped</i>” written by Garry Kasparov, the
chess grandmaster.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The review which
grabbed my attention<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn8" name="_ednref8" style="mso-endnote-id: edn8;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[viii]</span></span></span></span></a>
on this occasion calls it “this brave, trenchant and convincing book.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Its message seems to chime with the current
row over the Alexander Litvinenko murder. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Kasparov rails against what the author
describes as the cowardly West which refuses to stop the dangerous regime that currently
misrules Russia.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Finally and returning to fiction, I cannot wait to
receive the latest novel written by the UK Man Booker prize winner (in 2011) Julian
B<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">arne</span>s.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The Noise of Time</i>” has a publication date of 28 January 2016.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">It has been previewed with effusive praise by
one critic<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn9" name="_ednref9" style="mso-endnote-id: edn9;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[ix]</span></span></span></span></a> as “fictional
biography... this is a great novel...a novel that is powerfully affecting, a
condensed masterpiece that traces the lifelong battle of one man’s conscience,
one man’s art, with the insupportable exigencies of totalitarianism.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The subject, of course, is Shostakovich. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDaUjtykfx3q2EvuX-fnqVhOIF4ZWQWx2iMZIrjThFjiE07ZTpYtUIsBW5hTvwA_fsmZaM-2A-HpaHGu7bCFwHsM2TgzI_BGtdruo83X5ok5VCkUA4qZ_8_IoY6RiI6bd3bRDZ1_ixno4/s1600/TheNoiseOfTimeJulianBarnes20160128.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDaUjtykfx3q2EvuX-fnqVhOIF4ZWQWx2iMZIrjThFjiE07ZTpYtUIsBW5hTvwA_fsmZaM-2A-HpaHGu7bCFwHsM2TgzI_BGtdruo83X5ok5VCkUA4qZ_8_IoY6RiI6bd3bRDZ1_ixno4/s320/TheNoiseOfTimeJulianBarnes20160128.jpg" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Russia together with its woes and its beauty is a
never-ending saga, an enigma indeed.</span><br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><u>Postscript</u>: My copy of <i>"The Noise of Time"</i> arrived two days after its publication date. <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">Alex Preston's review is uncannily accurate - powerfully affecting, a masterpiece. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">Just as the novel "<i>Child 44"</i> recreates the horror endured by ordinary citizens during Stalin's purges, Julian B<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">arnes puts the reader in the shoes of the great composer to convey the impact of tyranny on creative gen<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">ius. (MMcS 03202016).</span></span></span> </span></div>
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<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[i]</span></span></span></span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><a href="http://michaelmcsorleytravel.blogspot.co.uk/2015/12/russia-revealed.html">http://michaelmcsorleytravel.blogspot.co.uk/2015/12/russia-revealed.html</a></div>
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<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[ii]</span></span></span></span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-europe-35407795</div>
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<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[iii]</span></span></span></span> <a href="http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/p039wd0f/war-and-peace-episode-1"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/p039wd0f/war-and-peace-episode-1</span></a></div>
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref4" name="_edn4" style="mso-endnote-id: edn4;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[iv]</span></span></span></span></a> <a href="http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b06vm9qp/empire-of-the-tsars-romanov-russia-with-lucy-worsley-1-reinventing-russia">http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b06vm9qp/empire-of-the-tsars-romanov-russia-with-lucy-worsley-1-reinventing-russia</a></div>
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref5" name="_edn5" style="mso-endnote-id: edn5;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[v]</span></span></span></span></a> <a href="http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b06vkbcs/leningrad-the-orchestra-that-defied-hitler"><span style="font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b06vkbcs/leningrad-the-orchestra-that-defied-hitler</span></a><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref6" name="_edn6" style="mso-endnote-id: edn6;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[vi]</span></span></span></span></a> <a href="http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/p039q3qd/the-joy-of-rachmaninoff"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/p039q3qd/the-joy-of-rachmaninoff</span></a></div>
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref7" name="_edn7" style="mso-endnote-id: edn7;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">[vii]</span></span></span></span></a> The
Times 7 November 2015, Saturday Review, David Aaronovitch</div>
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The Times 31 October 2015, Saturday Review, Edward Lucas</div>
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Observer 17 January 2016, New Review, Alex Preston</div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">©Michael
McSorley 2016</span></div>
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</div>
Michael McSorleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06352593190581090069noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1873197369166122223.post-53216599318314961162015-12-28T06:25:00.000-08:002015-12-28T06:25:48.594-08:00Russia Revealed<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Introduction</span></u></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">T</span>he world’s biggest country is, perhaps
unsurprisingly, a land of gargantuan contrasts. I now <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">realise this</span></span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"> as fact a<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">s a result of</span></span> visiting Russia in May and after two months of more recent
stu<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">dy</span>.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">There are inevitable geographical and climatological
variations to be expected in a vast land mass which stretches from the Baltic to
the Pacific, from the White Sea to the Black Sea.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">But the contrasts which grab my <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">attention</span> are
related to culture and history.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">One extreme encapsulates the ultimate in beauty and
creativity, the other exposes the most depraved limits of violence and human degradation.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>How is it possible that Russia, which has
given mankind superlative culture, has also been exposed to and survives some
of the most psychotic tyranny ever endured by any nation on earth?</span></div>
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<u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></u></div>
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<u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Russian contrasts</span></u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The creative side includes towering geniuses in literature
(Dostoyevsky, Turgenev, Pushkin, Tolstoy, Chekhov, Boris Pasternak), in
classical music (Tchaikovsky, Rachmaninov, Rimsky-Korsakov, Shostakovich, Mussorgsky),
ballet and opera companies (the Bolshoi and the Mariinsky), and great museums
(the Hermitage and the Armory). <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Beautiful Russia is also revealed through its
sublime architecture.</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ83a9CI58gdq3J0E-Roigps2Di6YbCHWYxElaVMpRI0sVdBJ1PlAN8BLkKD7OOaCt83kE8NTi_HnCvAYdZpozpXkEJPeypOTo4voUYZO1DWn1RzmsmABuF_EdUTykw0QbxWNzyApJpW8/s1600/IMG_1245.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ83a9CI58gdq3J0E-Roigps2Di6YbCHWYxElaVMpRI0sVdBJ1PlAN8BLkKD7OOaCt83kE8NTi_HnCvAYdZpozpXkEJPeypOTo4voUYZO1DWn1RzmsmABuF_EdUTykw0QbxWNzyApJpW8/s200/IMG_1245.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The achievements make my heart sing with joy; in complete
contrast, the carnage wrought on everyday twentieth century life in the name of
Communism and Nazism evokes profound sorrow and sympathy for the country’s
long-suffering citizens.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></u></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Architecture</span></u></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">One abiding impression indelibly imprinted on my mind as
a tourist last May in Moscow and St Petersburg was the huge priority that
post-Soviet Russia has given to architectural restoration.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The scale and quality of the work in both
cities is overwhelmingly impressive.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Related
to this is the realisation that Orthodox Catholicism seems to be flourishing in
Russia in spite of twentieth century ideological hostility and subjugation.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It seems almost perverse, but some of its
finest ecclesiastical architecture is juxtaposed with very heart of Government.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The Kremlin includes a number of cathedrals within the
fortress. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>These include the five-domed
church of the twelve apostles, the Assumption Cathedral, the church of the
Deposition of the Robe, and Archangel Cathedral.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The Cathedral of Christ the Saviour, a 19<sup>th</sup>
century church, was destroyed in 1931 by the Soviets.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It has been rebuilt, miraculously, to the
original design, completed in 2000 and is again the tallest Orthodox church in
the world.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Its guilded copper domes and
white walls gleam triumphantly.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Its
interior walls are bedecked with magnificent icons.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The city’s tourist board describes the
cathedral as a <i>“symbol of Moscow’s post-Soviet revival.”</i></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In St Petersburg the Church of the Saviour on the Spilled
Blood reveals a similar story.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Named
after and built on the spot where the Tsar Alexander II was assassinated in
1881, this Church is dedicated to the Resurrection of Christ.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It also had a tumultuous existence in the twentieth
century because of the Bolsheviks suppression of religion.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The building has been restored – resurrected
- to its former magnificence.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The State Hermitage and the Winter Palace provide another
example of Russian beauty as well as reminders of man’s tyranny.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The building was planned by Tsar Peter the
Great and enhanced by Catherine II, Catherine the Great. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">“The
Russian Empire at its most grandiosely extravagant” </i>is the apt description
by the St Petersburg tourist board.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In October 1917 it was ransacked by the Bolsheviks.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>As if that wasn’t enough, the Nazis gutted it
during the 900-day siege of the city.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>The impact on the senses of subsequent restoration of the property is
staggering.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The art collection is outstanding.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Apart from Faberge eggs and priceless
jewellery, the Hermitage houses artistic masterpieces by Da Vinci, Rembrandt,
Goya, El Greco, Titian, Murillo, Veronese, and a Michelangelo sculpture, and a
collection of paintings by the Impressionists - Monet, Matisse, Degas, Cézanne,
Gauguin as well as Picasso and Van Gogh.<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn1" name="_ednref1" style="mso-endnote-id: edn1;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">[i]</span></span></span></span></a><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Proof of what we were told in class – Peter
the Great gave modern Russia its body; Catherine the Great gave it its soul.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The Catherine<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> </i>Palace
in Pushkin was the summer retreat of Catherine I, Peter the Great’s wife.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Like the Hermitage, this building exhibits
magnificence through imposing and colourful external appearance as well as
sumptuous interiors.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>Following the Nazi
occupation and the disappearance of lavish panels, the Palace’s Amber Room<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn2" name="_ednref2" style="mso-endnote-id: edn2;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">[ii]</span></span></span></span></a> (dubbed “the Eighth
Wonder of the World”) has been recreated at huge expense.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The work has taken 20 years to complete.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A montage of black and white photographs
graphically illustrates the destructive impact of World War 2.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Just when you think your senses can take no more beauty,
along comes one more marvel. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>The
Peterhof Palace (Petrodvorets) lying about 15 miles outside the city was the
elaborate suburban palace of Peter the Great.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It was inspired by Versailles.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Before leaving for the airport and the end of our trip<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn3" name="_ednref3" style="mso-endnote-id: edn3;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">[iii]</span></span></span></span></a>, the sun shone to reveal
this fabulous estate’s golden statues, fountains and cascades.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The palace and its sensuous sculptures look
proudly down at the Gulf of Finland and the Baltic.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This testament to restoration backed with
financial muscle provides a defiant answer to the erstwhile destroyers of
Russia (and Europe’s) culture.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The commitment of the post-Communist Russian authorities
to its architectural heritage makes an emphatic statement.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>To me it proclaims – this is who we are, we
are proud of our Imperial and Christian legacy.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Second World War</span></u></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Our visit coincided with the 70<sup>th</sup> anniversary
of the end of World War 2.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The occasion
was proudly celebrated in extravagant style on 9 May with the biggest parade in Moscow
since the fall of Communism.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">According
to the BBC television report<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn4" name="_ednref4" style="mso-endnote-id: edn4;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">[iv]</span></span></span></span></a>, Russia lost more lives
than any other country on earth - 26 million people perished during the war.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Consider this single example. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Hitler wrote – <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">“Leningrad must be erased from the face of the earth.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></i>History books record that over the next
three years, 1.4 million people left or were evacuated from the city and 1.5
million starved or died.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Novels have a way of conveying the visceral pain and
struggle for survival more poignantly than any history book can.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Even though such narratives can upset as well
as surprise emotionally, graphic reminders of human depravity serve a positive
purpose.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The reader becomes an
eye-witness, exposed to heartache and suffering - and also to hope.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Stalin, as we learned in class, distrusted the city and placed
it on his blacklist.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> </i></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">“The Conductor</i><a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn5" name="_ednref5" style="mso-endnote-id: edn5;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">[v]</span></span></span></span></a>” tells the story of the
composition of most of the mighty Leningrad Symphony by the defiant Shostakovich
before he was evacuated.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The book
realistically depicts the deep human spirit of resilience in the face of the
horrors of bombing and starvation. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Likewise, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">“The
Siege</i><a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn6" name="_ednref6" style="mso-endnote-id: edn6;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">[vi]</span></span></span></span></a>” details a harrowing tale
of a family’s struggle to survive, making soup from a leather manicure case,
burning books and furniture to stay warm.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Chekist purges</span></u></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The novel <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">“Child 44</i>”<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn7" name="_ednref7" style="mso-endnote-id: edn7;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">[vii]</span></span></span></span></a> captures the frightening
atmosphere of paranoia and sheer terror that pervaded the country because of
the purges wrought by the Stalinist regime.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The reader feels the bodily
pain of horrendous torture, the torment inside aching minds, and sees the
butchery of human torsos.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>So vivid is
the story-telling that I had to put the book down and go for a walk to recover
from shock.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Just imagine what it must
have been like to live under such a regime.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdW5EFqP4IoR6elbUSmT-zTJKudnQZiuhbJT2G8e2sutFgqrUrThCjZ9ivZeFE0RJ_Qgnkj3Q8QZt-jQAf7m8NQ5ZJqfH5Jh7c9bd2A85i1vCgPuFEUqTUg2GcIFBy2xWLgKskC62WXgU/s1600/Child44.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdW5EFqP4IoR6elbUSmT-zTJKudnQZiuhbJT2G8e2sutFgqrUrThCjZ9ivZeFE0RJ_Qgnkj3Q8QZt-jQAf7m8NQ5ZJqfH5Jh7c9bd2A85i1vCgPuFEUqTUg2GcIFBy2xWLgKskC62WXgU/s320/Child44.jpg" width="209" /></a></span></div>
</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">An appendix to the novel starkly reveals appalling statistics.
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">These include the number of forced labourers
in the USSR (28.7 million); the number of execution warrants signed by Stalin
on one November day in 1938 (3,167); the number of political executions between
1930-1953 (786,098); the number of peasants who died during the terror-famine of 1930-1933
(14.5 million); the number of homeless children 1943-45 (842,144); the number of
Churches in Moscow before the Revolution (460), and the number by 1 January
1933 (100).</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The fiction of these three page-turning contemporary novels is based
on<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>meticulously researched fact.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Thus it fits perfectly with the legacy and
the narrative style of Russian Realism established by writers like Pushkin and
Tolstoy.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Creative influences</span></u></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Pushkin is also fondly remembered for his fairytales, drawing
on the Russian tradition of folkloric legends.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The same influence is heard in Russian classical music.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Rimsky Korsakov’s mystical and powerfully
orchestrated Scheherazade about Arabian nights and Mussorgsky’s whirling Night
on Bare Mountain about witches and Satan fire the imagination with stirring and
uplifting melodies that conjure up exotic fantasies.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Tchaikovsky’s superlative ballet scores - The Nutcracker,
Swan Lake and Sleeping Beauty<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_edn8" name="_ednref8" style="mso-endnote-id: edn8;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">[viii]</span></span></span></span></a> - bring to life with the
most ethereal music, stories which are, in effect, fairytales.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2kuKmR5HHfCwTPxzJzYM4jZJPlCCtL1wpUtmS1eC_biIo-VMNXAnIPSd5GH7z0Hvcuv53PyM5xjUhXcEidOWIsnhj2fod5rhTqlEaFwXABtzosjatwRYFaVNnyYe9l5-8L-mY2SIFz-I/s1600/TchaikovskyBallets.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2kuKmR5HHfCwTPxzJzYM4jZJPlCCtL1wpUtmS1eC_biIo-VMNXAnIPSd5GH7z0Hvcuv53PyM5xjUhXcEidOWIsnhj2fod5rhTqlEaFwXABtzosjatwRYFaVNnyYe9l5-8L-mY2SIFz-I/s1600/TchaikovskyBallets.jpg" /></a></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This same composer has also enriched all of
our lives even further with gorgeous symphonies and concerti.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>These range from the turbo-charged maelstrom
of the 1812 <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">O</span>verture inspired by the Napoleonic invasion of Russia to the beauty
of his Romeo and Juliet Fantasy Overture and the haunting eeriness of his sixth
symphony, the Pathétique.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">And who can live without Rachmaninov and especially the soaring
melodies and mesmeric beauty of his heart-melting second and third piano
concerti.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Omagh people will never forget
the performance by the Chorus of the Mariinsky Theatre conducted by Valery
Gergiev in the Sacred Heart Church of Rachmaninov’s Vespers in 1990.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Music to die for.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Tragically, far too many millions of Russian citizens have lost their lives
on the altar of ideological tyrannies.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Russia’s literature takes us from fantasy to realism, reflecting
in a way the country’s variety and its historical extremes. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>In the same way, Russia’s composers produce
music which is stirringly bellicose and at another remove can evoke the most
calming and soporific mood imaginable.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Creative Russia reveals itself with aplomb and in the
face of adversity through its wondrous art, architecture, literature and music.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It stands the test of time.</span></div>
<div style="mso-element: endnote-list;">
<br clear="all" />
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<div id="edn1" style="mso-element: endnote;">
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<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
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<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">REFERENCES</span></div>
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">[i]</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"> “The State
Hermitage: Treasures from the Museum’s Collections.” Booth Clibborn £175</span></div>
</div>
<div id="edn2" style="mso-element: endnote;">
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref2" name="_edn2" style="mso-endnote-id: edn2;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">[ii]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">
http://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/a-brief-history-of-the-amber-room-160940121/?no-ist</span></div>
</div>
<div id="edn3" style="mso-element: endnote;">
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref3" name="_edn3" style="mso-endnote-id: edn3;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">[iii]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">
http://michaelmcsorleytravel.blogspot.co.uk/2015/05/moscow-and-saint-petersburg.html</span></div>
</div>
<div id="edn4" style="mso-element: endnote;">
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref4" name="_edn4" style="mso-endnote-id: edn4;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">[iv]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">
http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-europe-32668511</span></div>
</div>
<div id="edn5" style="mso-element: endnote;">
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref5" name="_edn5" style="mso-endnote-id: edn5;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">[v]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"> Sarah Quigley “The
Conductor” 2011 Head of Zeus</span></div>
</div>
<div id="edn6" style="mso-element: endnote;">
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref6" name="_edn6" style="mso-endnote-id: edn6;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">[vi]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"> Helen Dunmore “The
Siege” 2001 QPD</span></div>
</div>
<div id="edn7" style="mso-element: endnote;">
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref7" name="_edn7" style="mso-endnote-id: edn7;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">[vii]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"> Tom Robb Smith
“Child 44” 2009 Pocket Books</span></div>
</div>
<div id="edn8" style="mso-element: endnote;">
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ednref8" name="_edn8" style="mso-endnote-id: edn8;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">[viii]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"> Birmingham Royal
Ballet performed Swan Lake in the Grand Opera House and a Moscow Ballet Company
performed Sleeping Beauty in the Waterfront Hall, Belfast on successive nights in
November 2015.</span></div>
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">©Michael
McSorley 2015</span></div>
</div>
</div>
Michael McSorleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06352593190581090069noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1873197369166122223.post-16376547995816186302015-05-31T02:56:00.000-07:002015-06-09T12:59:40.377-07:00Moscow and Saint Petersburg<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><i>“This is not a scary country,”</i> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">the valedictory comment of
our sardonic tour guide as we ended our 10-day visit to Russia.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><i>“And tell your friends to come.”</i></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">May I endorse those comments - I strongly recommend a visit to Moscow
and Saint Petersburg.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Allow me to share
some of the best parts of our recent whirlwind tour.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Perhaps then you will decide if you’d like to
go there.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><b>Moscow</b> highlights included the following sites:-</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The
Cathedral of Christ the Saviour</span></u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This was the first of many reminders of the
violence of Russian history.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
original nineteenth century church was destroyed in 1931 by the Soviets.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Located close to the Kremlin, Christ the
Saviour is the tallest Orthodox Catholic church in the world, completed only in
2000 and based on the original design.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">On a sunny day, its guilded copper domes and white walls gleamed
triumphantly.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Inside the walls are, as
expected, bedecked with magnificent icons.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The lower floor is the venue for performance of the sacraments and
church services, such as baptism and mass.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The city’s tourist board describes the cathedral as a <i> </i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><i>“symbol of Moscow’s
post-Soviet revival.”</i><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Symbolism writ grand
and large, I’d say.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0C3wJ3RehxngaScCvphVh3JlpZW4BqM6acXY9WJq_A0Lm7Ye6JO-o0bHA-KZnx3nTE3-Bfj0fBaWU6GJrQzPSF7HLQR_NFn1j-mgm6ME6WtRPc7tgxSabvcddpYn6tDCWxFdvwr2esLc/s1600/2015-05-07+10.42.28+ChristThe+Saviour+Cathedral+Moscow.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0C3wJ3RehxngaScCvphVh3JlpZW4BqM6acXY9WJq_A0Lm7Ye6JO-o0bHA-KZnx3nTE3-Bfj0fBaWU6GJrQzPSF7HLQR_NFn1j-mgm6ME6WtRPc7tgxSabvcddpYn6tDCWxFdvwr2esLc/s320/2015-05-07+10.42.28+ChristThe+Saviour+Cathedral+Moscow.jpg" width="238" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Christ the Saviour Cathedral</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYG64F_VghLkeSYzewporWcCnUtYQZ_zQ0hLp6i9PHhRBZRu67Zg1vlpQNm-CbmLH5yU3yiRkqMRs_uYA11aBTsk8Xjf2R-7GOnZtmtabKlVWRvJytWPdY3lDP5cfZkjJTaJybBSXWi8E/s1600/2015-05-07+11.21.53+ChristThe+Saviour+Cathedral+Moscow.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="149" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYG64F_VghLkeSYzewporWcCnUtYQZ_zQ0hLp6i9PHhRBZRu67Zg1vlpQNm-CbmLH5yU3yiRkqMRs_uYA11aBTsk8Xjf2R-7GOnZtmtabKlVWRvJytWPdY3lDP5cfZkjJTaJybBSXWi8E/s200/2015-05-07+11.21.53+ChristThe+Saviour+Cathedral+Moscow.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Christ the Saviour interior</td></tr>
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<br /></div>
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<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The
Novodevichy (New Maiden) Cemetery</span></u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This stop was reminiscent of a Parisian
equivalent, the Père Lachaise cemetery where Chopin, Proust, Oscar Wilde, Jim
Morrison and Maria Callas rest in peace.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The sculptural beauty of the tombstones in this Moscovite convent burial
place is evidence of its national significance.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Deceased politicians, dancers from the Bolshoi, musicians and scientists
provide tour guides with the ideal opportunity to regale visitors with a potted
history of the country. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Here rest the playwright
Anton Chekhov, the cellist Rostropovich, the composers Shostakovich and
Prokofiev, the aerospace engineer Tupelev (who invented what Western
commentators dubbed Concordski), Nikita Khrushchev, Boris Yeltsin and Raisa
Gorbachov.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha3ow_vWaGoaBCE0Wm01d7bmr0vQt3hyphenhyphenbzbsaNBQyFVyt9NtHY7tvAvPneX8lLgumgOVREv1NY-RO-sMmvPBulWkuc6avOEXNQxa03gZ8TzkrCzmJX-ZCr0uWQbyME44XKh8FB_9n6gXs/s1600/2015-05-07+10.23.58+NewMaidenConvent+Cemetry+Moscow.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha3ow_vWaGoaBCE0Wm01d7bmr0vQt3hyphenhyphenbzbsaNBQyFVyt9NtHY7tvAvPneX8lLgumgOVREv1NY-RO-sMmvPBulWkuc6avOEXNQxa03gZ8TzkrCzmJX-ZCr0uWQbyME44XKh8FB_9n6gXs/s200/2015-05-07+10.23.58+NewMaidenConvent+Cemetry+Moscow.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Novodevichy</td></tr>
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<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTPiKG61RXel1D2Bu-HRihH2lg4EN4re-YW2nrp1NADnU28j90V-gkPuRPi0zpZZNX2_YqWBWfdhyhSyA6LVfMoGCDo_1S-IKHcvrAQJHYDMK8Ja_BPCKHthGlGLO4Da93UhsFqh-qK3M/s1600/2015-05-07+10.24.20+NewMaidenConvent+Cemetry+Moscow.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTPiKG61RXel1D2Bu-HRihH2lg4EN4re-YW2nrp1NADnU28j90V-gkPuRPi0zpZZNX2_YqWBWfdhyhSyA6LVfMoGCDo_1S-IKHcvrAQJHYDMK8Ja_BPCKHthGlGLO4Da93UhsFqh-qK3M/s200/2015-05-07+10.24.20+NewMaidenConvent+Cemetry+Moscow.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Novodevichy</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtZ9tjld9xBZjTEtwX0zfqX7EDCP7ewZxj-ziYLQ3T9TsVN5Lis2phlE2G87CYxv1JLYUJu-ED9V_lBL8fXeUTz4IhVYc2CO3lb6vL3-uTaKPOg1QAy9OKwz9HPog9h-E4jLDce4Ok7XQ/s1600/2015-05-07+13.16.20+NewMaiden+Convent+Cemetry+Moscow.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="149" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtZ9tjld9xBZjTEtwX0zfqX7EDCP7ewZxj-ziYLQ3T9TsVN5Lis2phlE2G87CYxv1JLYUJu-ED9V_lBL8fXeUTz4IhVYc2CO3lb6vL3-uTaKPOg1QAy9OKwz9HPog9h-E4jLDce4Ok7XQ/s200/2015-05-07+13.16.20+NewMaiden+Convent+Cemetry+Moscow.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Boris Yeltsin</td></tr>
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</span></span></span><u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The
Moscow Metro</span></u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><u> </u> </span> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">How
many countries’ subterranean railway systems attract tourists to see the
artwork?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Moscow’s underground with its
artistic depiction of Russian history might well be top of any such global list.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">According to our guide, and whatever people
think of Stalin, every station is a masterpiece, replete with Soviet symbolism
providing an artistic depiction of a key part of the capital’s history. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQxjM-B5Q8NHptdL-p-jaDwYKGimgkeP_z4QL4ndYIdyolxWkzILkAHn6WVpRu-x2TXAo1IDdU9mGp3fXWlGVitrc46j5nfZlKf_zBg5cnBNmoT4moOlZSKdShIPpRLamy798KkpTxd78/s1600/2015-05-07+14.33.42+Moscow+Metro.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQxjM-B5Q8NHptdL-p-jaDwYKGimgkeP_z4QL4ndYIdyolxWkzILkAHn6WVpRu-x2TXAo1IDdU9mGp3fXWlGVitrc46j5nfZlKf_zBg5cnBNmoT4moOlZSKdShIPpRLamy798KkpTxd78/s320/2015-05-07+14.33.42+Moscow+Metro.jpg" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stalinist art Moscow Metro</td></tr>
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</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Mention Moscow and <u>the Bolshoi Ballet </u>will be a popular first cultural
attraction.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The event that we attended
was the ballet Don Quixote.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Apart from the imposing
architecture of the theatre’s exterior and the swanky interiors with voluminous
chandeliers, seeing the magnificence of the ballet dancers and orchestra
performing live in their own home venue is a privilege.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This lavish production even included the
appearance in two scenes of a horse and a donkey, neither of which resulted in
mishaps.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Tickets are expensive.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtKaWpahZoQuYZVDNd4tp51TbSOW2tOoVhPoibUV8_PsZ5qwpF-DWJD3EeIbmHX-O5bv3Z2nl5t4-XuVJ-9FM0X1lDlKqhQQUx13CPvQhahCgS9JfPrDJROaJWfEYtbH9SKlgcnzKN0dc/s1600/2015-05-07+16.12.22+Bolshoi+Theatre.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtKaWpahZoQuYZVDNd4tp51TbSOW2tOoVhPoibUV8_PsZ5qwpF-DWJD3EeIbmHX-O5bv3Z2nl5t4-XuVJ-9FM0X1lDlKqhQQUx13CPvQhahCgS9JfPrDJROaJWfEYtbH9SKlgcnzKN0dc/s200/2015-05-07+16.12.22+Bolshoi+Theatre.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bolshoi Theatre exterior</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5Spb1_EV5ldCJehzX35EPvFiiz19qKjuiYGe2cpQKBBALDLX97RnWI7N1iyfpyMP-x5fowx0FesuRIJYSR33jVOPRW7Ul-_0YX-FJaIn2B9uagt7QaZklKKRSWe2IPK61pYgZ-ymbj_E/s1600/2015-05-07+19.00.36+Bolshoi+Theatre.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5Spb1_EV5ldCJehzX35EPvFiiz19qKjuiYGe2cpQKBBALDLX97RnWI7N1iyfpyMP-x5fowx0FesuRIJYSR33jVOPRW7Ul-_0YX-FJaIn2B9uagt7QaZklKKRSWe2IPK61pYgZ-ymbj_E/s200/2015-05-07+19.00.36+Bolshoi+Theatre.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bolshoi staircase & chandeliers</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">St
Basil’s Cathedral</span></u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This building provides the image most associated with
Moscow.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I recall it from a birthday
present from my mother in the early 1960’s when she presented me with a mod con
of its day.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This was a Viewfinder with cassettes
viewable in 3D, one of which featured the sites of Moscow.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>First impressions are everything and the seed
of curiosity was firmly planted in my subconscious to see it for myself.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The official name of the building is “The Cathedral
of the Intercession of the Virgin by the Moat.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Stalin ordered it to be demolished to allow more space for parades on
Red Square.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Miraculously it survived
because of the architect’s refusal to obey.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">St Basil’s is now a museum.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Because of rehearsals to mark Victory Day (more of which later), we did
not see the Cathedral’s interior.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A
return trip is the only reasonable thing to do now.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp1BAG4WPMn1p0-EmIMdfN93wyhXAPPi9iwSH7owAHWryhqRNqL26p91exG6DqLy0G6mPNQ0l7jT3aOyVh2dYFJE7hmbiVbYne5uK3xasK93W5cnUQ-78Bt-SzT5mkHG1o6Tgzjvj_d0w/s1600/2015-05-08+12.32.56+St+Basil%2527s+Cathedral+Moscow.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp1BAG4WPMn1p0-EmIMdfN93wyhXAPPi9iwSH7owAHWryhqRNqL26p91exG6DqLy0G6mPNQ0l7jT3aOyVh2dYFJE7hmbiVbYne5uK3xasK93W5cnUQ-78Bt-SzT5mkHG1o6Tgzjvj_d0w/s400/2015-05-08+12.32.56+St+Basil%2527s+Cathedral+Moscow.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0ub8nLQjY33w6PvBReMfI5e-3MLb7uKIPbmWsOk9m5pHidpRd4NLCLyBkUsuu6qU_KZuZ7ycVF3P9vgFs-qNlj9xW4N_IUG-lQI27O11mhvRJM4XwQx5CrggRZcOF0nsDfjz-_NRyxvo/s1600/2015-05-08+11.25.22+St+Basil%2527s+Cathedral+Moscow.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0ub8nLQjY33w6PvBReMfI5e-3MLb7uKIPbmWsOk9m5pHidpRd4NLCLyBkUsuu6qU_KZuZ7ycVF3P9vgFs-qNlj9xW4N_IUG-lQI27O11mhvRJM4XwQx5CrggRZcOF0nsDfjz-_NRyxvo/s400/2015-05-08+11.25.22+St+Basil%2527s+Cathedral+Moscow.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><u>Red Square</u> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The colour adjective has nothing to do with communism. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Instead, as our guide told us, it derives from
the Russian word for beautiful.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Flanked
by imposing architecture including St Basil’s and the Kremlin’s walls, what was
used as a venue to display Soviet military pomp is now more regularly the venue
for rock concerts and big classical music performances.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Nearby sits the Russian retailing
institution, GUM. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>With its upscale
boutiques and air of style, it shines as an example of how Moscovites are
really embracing capitalism (until they drop).</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxaPf0xEgH0imQscO2z2jzjoTWnpNrlcie9BlDY_cXCr2hKlOjSUB9l05j7hhyfg6abEBaQXv-deF0s0kRZKPSEmOjU-UWwBcCkVnDbodaWxChMFUbv0QqPpV4lPkoVtahihFKEdwpOpY/s1600/2015-05-08+12.35.00+Red+Square+Moscow.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="149" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxaPf0xEgH0imQscO2z2jzjoTWnpNrlcie9BlDY_cXCr2hKlOjSUB9l05j7hhyfg6abEBaQXv-deF0s0kRZKPSEmOjU-UWwBcCkVnDbodaWxChMFUbv0QqPpV4lPkoVtahihFKEdwpOpY/s200/2015-05-08+12.35.00+Red+Square+Moscow.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOb6KQ3yRt3I22e-QQY0YIwxBEogvqG1EsdPX1mCkg5PoYHp32aEsOo2ryt0AeREDanbKydQPescfMH1PN7-LxImueN7B-6Ne7fyimDzrbSY55yZ4by7P9FyUbJ4IAAujRcrsyGNIZC4s/s1600/2015-05-08+12.33.20+Red+Square+Moscow.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="149" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOb6KQ3yRt3I22e-QQY0YIwxBEogvqG1EsdPX1mCkg5PoYHp32aEsOo2ryt0AeREDanbKydQPescfMH1PN7-LxImueN7B-6Ne7fyimDzrbSY55yZ4by7P9FyUbJ4IAAujRcrsyGNIZC4s/s200/2015-05-08+12.33.20+Red+Square+Moscow.jpg" width="200" /></a><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"> </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Victory
Park</span></u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This is an extensive and pretty park in central Moscow, incorporating a memorial to
the defeat of Naziism in World War 2 as well as to other campaigns.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Our visit to Russia coincided with the
rehearsals to mark the 70<sup>th</sup> anniversary of the end of the War.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">According to the BBC report<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftn1" name="_ftnref1" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn1;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">[1]</span></span></span></span></a>,
of the 60 million people who died across the world, Russia incurred 26 million
casualties in that conflict.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Their
commentary on the 9 May event added that 2015 was the largest military display
seen in the capital since the collapse of communism.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigJLdI_XbxjBh3mnTWG_STgsqET_yN6-XGPK6ctHptcX4tFhr4o1_KUZuQXCZ2qbkx9DfefoMKs0PM-t9DDiHmWwqolxFif-6iVe29-MEXzzvSt8WHB9n2bt7xZTHeCBKkYKCWSMPtYXE/s1600/2015-05-08+14.43.25.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="149" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigJLdI_XbxjBh3mnTWG_STgsqET_yN6-XGPK6ctHptcX4tFhr4o1_KUZuQXCZ2qbkx9DfefoMKs0PM-t9DDiHmWwqolxFif-6iVe29-MEXzzvSt8WHB9n2bt7xZTHeCBKkYKCWSMPtYXE/s200/2015-05-08+14.43.25.jpg" width="200" /></a><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"> </span></span><br />
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</span></span></span><u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The
Monastery of the Trinity Lavra of St Sergius</span></u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> at Sergiyev-Posad is
a major pilgrimage site about an hour’s drive from Moscow.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Our guide referred to it as “the Russian
Jerusalem” adding that it attracts some 2 million visitors every year. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A visit to this architectural ensemble reminds
me of liturgical similarities of Orthodox and Roman Catholic faiths.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I recall being instructed at school that the
Roman Catholic Church describes itself the “one holy catholic and apostolic” church.<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftn2" name="_ftnref2" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn2;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">[2]</span></span></span></span></a>
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The only other denomination which it
recognises as having the same right to perform the sacraments is Orthodox
Catholicism.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This Russian visit reminds
me that both do pilgrimages, both believe in holy water, both promote fasting, saints
are canonised, people light candles in church when seeking an intention to be
heeded, both perform religious ceremonies in places of worship glittering in
fine art and sculptural forms seen as the sincerest tribute to the almighty, and
both believe in presenting sacraments (such as confession, communion, mass, and
baptism) to a similar liturgical rite.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The Orthodox ceremonial, however, appears to be more involved, lasting
longer and (to the outsider) arcane, byzantine definitely.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The architecture and choral chanting by
priests are a class apart.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcDWFqHKkHv3ICrjSFuqAA_AvrzOhweImkjafM59ZHqFKu0xscK5YAn47ptdykh20tVAHBErBwReoWhU6g-Cu87yd2Ei0rJW6hEVWZ4cnTOSryRDL98yDIprCPhIaKKsv-41MuuFYNx9Y/s1600/2015-05-09+10.44.13+Sergiyev-Posad+Monastry.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcDWFqHKkHv3ICrjSFuqAA_AvrzOhweImkjafM59ZHqFKu0xscK5YAn47ptdykh20tVAHBErBwReoWhU6g-Cu87yd2Ei0rJW6hEVWZ4cnTOSryRDL98yDIprCPhIaKKsv-41MuuFYNx9Y/s640/2015-05-09+10.44.13+Sergiyev-Posad+Monastry.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQahrrQkXU9juILEiY-OMmshY1KwniVmHTrnYY1AOJyguiaNDLw94IcTp77oi27JuCQbiPfL9xcmjriPjPAvS2u7hP929oSbTLsZ7Z1UiPhdKFjVRy9qO7CHF-c70Xt57JBNfCAT2IuPo/s1600/2015-05-09+11.58.05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQahrrQkXU9juILEiY-OMmshY1KwniVmHTrnYY1AOJyguiaNDLw94IcTp77oi27JuCQbiPfL9xcmjriPjPAvS2u7hP929oSbTLsZ7Z1UiPhdKFjVRy9qO7CHF-c70Xt57JBNfCAT2IuPo/s400/2015-05-09+11.58.05.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Zlatoust</span></u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This is the Russian word for
Golden Voice. It is a choral ensemble of operatic singers who perform a repertoire
of Russian Orthodox music interspersed with operatic versions of Russian folk
songs.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This professional group of 5 men
and 5 women dazzled an audience with the visceral power of their voices on our
final evening in Moscow.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The deeply
sonorous basso profundo is an art form par excellence which has been developed
to what I consider to be like a national vocal signature in Russia.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I have an indelible memory of the Chorus of
the Mariinsky Theatre performing in the Sacred Heart Church in Omagh a year
after the 1998 bomb. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Conducted by maestro
Valery Gergiev, the large choral ensemble sang Rachmaninov’s Vespers with
powerful solemnity.<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftn3" name="_ftnref3" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn3;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">[3]</span></span></span></span></a><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">After the Zlatoust concert, I spoke to the
conductor Mikhail Borodyanski. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He explained
that his choir tours, that they are planning more foreign concerts, and that
they have recently returned from a series of recitals in the Netherlands.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The
Kremlin</span></u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> had been closed to visitors because of the rehearsals
and Victory Day parades.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Our visit had
been postponed to our last day in Moscow.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Militaristic themes abound, fitting with the meaning of the word Kremlin
(fortress), and nowhere more so in the Armory.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Our guide described the Armory as one of the
world’s best museums.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We were shown
elaborate body armour that looked straight out of a Robin Hood film, elaborately
engineered horse-drawn carriages, priceless royal jewels and clothing, highly
intricate Faberge eggs, and gifts presented down the ages from foreign heads of
state.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Vladimir Putin’s office sits
nearby, the Kremlin being the seat of Government for the country. </span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">On 10 May, the German Chancellor Angela Merkel
came to town.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>While this caused some
traffic disruption to our schedule, we had the pleasure of hearing the brassy Kremlin
band rehearsing the German national anthem three times in Victory Park before
they marched off to meet the visitor.</span> </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiOZHnnPukprGBwQwTVNLtaapwtoZUhwRixdYwr86XNikEW_egUo_BU0rdcelMA6f0bKDa_dXm-1dMt-21_PZ3uEU2SO4dSzLdgMwgSJ-cE-CEuC5oPam6tMrJ2654daeO-Tb2oYf2MIE/s1600/2015-05-10+12.22.44.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiOZHnnPukprGBwQwTVNLtaapwtoZUhwRixdYwr86XNikEW_egUo_BU0rdcelMA6f0bKDa_dXm-1dMt-21_PZ3uEU2SO4dSzLdgMwgSJ-cE-CEuC5oPam6tMrJ2654daeO-Tb2oYf2MIE/s1600/2015-05-10+12.22.44.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiOZHnnPukprGBwQwTVNLtaapwtoZUhwRixdYwr86XNikEW_egUo_BU0rdcelMA6f0bKDa_dXm-1dMt-21_PZ3uEU2SO4dSzLdgMwgSJ-cE-CEuC5oPam6tMrJ2654daeO-Tb2oYf2MIE/s200/2015-05-10+12.22.44.jpg" width="149" /></a></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHUXD3CZLsqNA8ECvNloCtAWmeG7FS2y9AFgZuEFB7WAnh4XD4cqDdmb3dK2Gp3EYCECmYcKRI3_DdkQFRYF0QZUR9CNxdm0_7WYPC3zYq4-fKG4leZZu9PJoHbMQ9BIpeJjnFMzrYayQ/s1600/2015-05-10+12.22.00+The+Kremlin+Band+Moscow.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHUXD3CZLsqNA8ECvNloCtAWmeG7FS2y9AFgZuEFB7WAnh4XD4cqDdmb3dK2Gp3EYCECmYcKRI3_DdkQFRYF0QZUR9CNxdm0_7WYPC3zYq4-fKG4leZZu9PJoHbMQ9BIpeJjnFMzrYayQ/s200/2015-05-10+12.22.00+The+Kremlin+Band+Moscow.jpg" width="149" /></a> </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Side by side with political power, the Kremlin
also accommodates a few churches such as the 5-domed Church of the 12 Apostles,
the Assumption Cathedral, the Church of the Deposition of the Robe, and
Archangel Cathedral.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Given the prevalent
attitude of most of the country’s rulers to religious practice during the twentieth
century, this survival and juxtaposition of politics and religion is
remarkable.</span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsoGkw06EupbfWOtgmHWCyzLNLkMSXcY5LmVwmUv6-WMxw6E2PcCctxtnERqB5Go8WDWKEkFng8Sz-FMSjdptg-QvZD3luxjOOGeke5LuxgpgIV53L4cORzsGFI32FLi0gOaMdIuhu2LY/s1600/2015-05-10+10.14.05+Putin%2527s+ofice+Kremlin.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsoGkw06EupbfWOtgmHWCyzLNLkMSXcY5LmVwmUv6-WMxw6E2PcCctxtnERqB5Go8WDWKEkFng8Sz-FMSjdptg-QvZD3luxjOOGeke5LuxgpgIV53L4cORzsGFI32FLi0gOaMdIuhu2LY/s320/2015-05-10+10.14.05+Putin%2527s+ofice+Kremlin.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mr Putin's office</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB9kedv0JJMTdYOFGjYfxc0CAIsSJJp4b-ylNd2EbjEFrHn9RZJXuqleZQmGHxHGXK3_x6eSSAaHMk-lfBPnNRH1qIABNCegzkf5IyehK0n7LjIvX_cZ-Ny3uJaAAH4Axym-UyqzyrLX8/s1600/2015-05-10+10.20.12+The+Kremlin+Moscow.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB9kedv0JJMTdYOFGjYfxc0CAIsSJJp4b-ylNd2EbjEFrHn9RZJXuqleZQmGHxHGXK3_x6eSSAaHMk-lfBPnNRH1qIABNCegzkf5IyehK0n7LjIvX_cZ-Ny3uJaAAH4Axym-UyqzyrLX8/s640/2015-05-10+10.20.12+The+Kremlin+Moscow.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5nScnvFKkoWY7v90G8QunFlehGuAdFtdbtjZxKL8JnvRC_5sgsJJANvVkUP6VxiDA_iNx2OcCg7QrTl-T1mBZ93sS7zXOecot8B8VfChka-rP-BH1WsyYuBggiiIiD4YUk4-C47x7Uck/s1600/2015-05-10+11.32.39+The+Armory+Moscow.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="149" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5nScnvFKkoWY7v90G8QunFlehGuAdFtdbtjZxKL8JnvRC_5sgsJJANvVkUP6VxiDA_iNx2OcCg7QrTl-T1mBZ93sS7zXOecot8B8VfChka-rP-BH1WsyYuBggiiIiD4YUk4-C47x7Uck/s200/2015-05-10+11.32.39+The+Armory+Moscow.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Armory</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Three miscellaneous topics merit space before moving on.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">1. One of many snippets learned from our Moscow tour guide is
that the Russian Government is promoting expansion of the population<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftn4" name="_ftnref4" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn4;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">[4]</span></span></span></span></a>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Parents who give birth to a second child are
rewarded with a substantial grant (RUB ¼m) and the same again if they produce a
third child.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">2. Speaking of money, I had expected Moscow to have been
affordable given the fall in value of the rouble.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>According to an article about the city<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftn5" name="_ftnref5" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn5;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">[5]</span></span></span></span></a>,
28 roubles was worth 60p in September 2012; the current equivalent exchange
would cost only 36p.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Despite the large
fall in value, Moscow is still expensive. (Warning: beware of professional pick-pockets in St Petersburg).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">3. My wife had received the Pulitzer prize-winning author Robert K Massie's book "Nicholas and Alexandra," a kind gift from our travelling companions (Bobby and Margaret Graham). It is a historical narrative about the last Tsar and his wife, the Romanovs.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In turn she recommended a book which occupied my journey to and from Russia.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“The Siege” by Helen Dunmore was an inspired
choice of novel, a fictional story of a family trying to survive the 900 day
siege of St Petersburg by the Nazis.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">It
offered a similar perspective to Sarah Quigley’s “The Conductor” which tells the
story from the viewpoint of one of the city's Orchestras, with Shostakovich and his seventh
symphony added to a riveting mix.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> Both are superb page-turning novels.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Which
takes us to the city formerly known as Leningrad. As a prelude, following Hitler's command that "St Petersburg must be erased from the face of the earth," 1.4 million people left the city over the next three years while up to 1.5 million starved or died from other causes. At the end of the siege, only 700,000 people were left alive.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><b>Saint Petersburg</b> highlights included the following
sites:-</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">St
Isaac’s Cathedral</span></u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This is the largest Orthodox cathedral in St Petersburg dominating its skyline.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">It holds
14,000 worshippers with services limited to special ecclesiastical occasions
and otherwise functioning as a museum.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>To
describe the decoration as elaborate is an understatement.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This church has to be seen.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The icon wall separating the altar from the
rest of the church and its decoration with 8 malachite and 2 lapis lazuli
columns is particularly impressive. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX1le8lT1VkvZWkUmc4OK9E7IURIeQxeui65-2v_dsxrUyn4xTlesXHmeUthjRKxd38WOJvcSbXQWGd53zy6HbE0F3EyHbI__V4kbg4i-qrROh2G8VKjAxg_HsroAIlOhffbf_-_ulAyM/s1600/st-isaacs-cathedralStP.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX1le8lT1VkvZWkUmc4OK9E7IURIeQxeui65-2v_dsxrUyn4xTlesXHmeUthjRKxd38WOJvcSbXQWGd53zy6HbE0F3EyHbI__V4kbg4i-qrROh2G8VKjAxg_HsroAIlOhffbf_-_ulAyM/s320/st-isaacs-cathedralStP.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">St Isaacs Cathedral (Source: St Petersburg tourism)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLmGlErP4naaTZ536jvu9DQ1oszb2YdxJKAXLKf31TOUKfeyda31SLEH969LoyFRzb7IKzJzJJbr7nYDLM7RNyJBom0WhyphenhyphenAEALj2cG4u9jC2urIb81mkxoV6PGd_qc-MFI6_hfen2pRDA/s1600/2015-05-14+12.55.08.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLmGlErP4naaTZ536jvu9DQ1oszb2YdxJKAXLKf31TOUKfeyda31SLEH969LoyFRzb7IKzJzJJbr7nYDLM7RNyJBom0WhyphenhyphenAEALj2cG4u9jC2urIb81mkxoV6PGd_qc-MFI6_hfen2pRDA/s200/2015-05-14+12.55.08.jpg" width="149" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzHmx51VyaiJ5uV0dhRU4S8j_G026673PeVfDBIN0Z02PM7bcVNG7MS8cApK_ufuv0qZbM6oOcxZqaCzG4O0MTxYMycfZ10_NQKVH3yzzrA2GNpj3f8L_ruqX1-i_5l6ZaxB5Ov6oQ3qE/s1600/2015-05-14+12.50.40.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzHmx51VyaiJ5uV0dhRU4S8j_G026673PeVfDBIN0Z02PM7bcVNG7MS8cApK_ufuv0qZbM6oOcxZqaCzG4O0MTxYMycfZ10_NQKVH3yzzrA2GNpj3f8L_ruqX1-i_5l6ZaxB5Ov6oQ3qE/s200/2015-05-14+12.50.40.jpg" width="149" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The 200 year old <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Admiralty building</i> sits at the junction of St Petersburg’s best
known street Nevsky Prospekt with two other streets which have much longer (and
difficult-to-pronounce) names.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Originally
the headquarters of the Russian Navy, the building now operates as a naval
college.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is its tower topped with a slender
golden spire which catches the eye.</span></div>
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<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The
Church of the Saviour on the Spilled Blood</span></i><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> commands the
visitor’s attention not just because of its intriguing name, but for
architectural reasons.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Named after and
built on the spot where the Emperor Alexander II was assassinated in 1881, this
Church of the Resurrection of Christ has itself had a tumultuous existence in
the twentieth century resulting from the Bolsheviks suppression of
religion.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In common with churches which
have survived, this building has been restored – I would say resurrected - to
its former magnificence.</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7H8u3pqAGHO3i08NyL-OuPXc7b5wYrTVMIelHBoRtsvrw9qc-eJMlPx6YXPWLljjJDu9eC6gpXRBs9p2HeeU3EjrDaMIYspQD_A7bCgVsHE-_vfS911wM1kuDDMTbQ6zfDMM75KU8DIg/s1600/2015-05-11+13.11.01+Spilled+Blood+church+St+Petersburg.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7H8u3pqAGHO3i08NyL-OuPXc7b5wYrTVMIelHBoRtsvrw9qc-eJMlPx6YXPWLljjJDu9eC6gpXRBs9p2HeeU3EjrDaMIYspQD_A7bCgVsHE-_vfS911wM1kuDDMTbQ6zfDMM75KU8DIg/s400/2015-05-11+13.11.01+Spilled+Blood+church+St+Petersburg.jpg" width="298" /></a></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi74ZmsKeGLyYODeERhbciEKVAvAgatqC4mXI5d2hiJiRxathx_XyqwRfXg6wEqIFbTzAQcCioTyetwasqztqtpQ2o0lpwsQCaE-L58YM5J-TqGpfKDkuMDc7c45T_k4sajVABQDutIGUs/s1600/2015-05-11+13.18.27.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi74ZmsKeGLyYODeERhbciEKVAvAgatqC4mXI5d2hiJiRxathx_XyqwRfXg6wEqIFbTzAQcCioTyetwasqztqtpQ2o0lpwsQCaE-L58YM5J-TqGpfKDkuMDc7c45T_k4sajVABQDutIGUs/s320/2015-05-11+13.18.27.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
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<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The
Peter and Paul Fortress</span></u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This was the city’s founding point, the
founder being the Tsar Peter the Great.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>As one journalist expresses it<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftn6" name="_ftnref6" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn6;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">[6]</span></span></span></span></a> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><i>“several museums lie within its walls, but the siren call comes from the Saints
Peter and Paul Cathedral where Peter the Great is entombed alongside the
murdered family of the last Tsar.” </i><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7aIR3GHTNGD-FdVU2NuoN5Mt3MERYalQli2Pfo4FyQd1X06JZwCeaCnepE1H6u_QZapUgYPgInWr8nelqqkqjS0OMkIlMG6OABwAJkvTNTCdzyyyOzk_2-kqwVWIx_Tffwg7iCJ6imnM/s1600/2015-05-11+11.35.29.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7aIR3GHTNGD-FdVU2NuoN5Mt3MERYalQli2Pfo4FyQd1X06JZwCeaCnepE1H6u_QZapUgYPgInWr8nelqqkqjS0OMkIlMG6OABwAJkvTNTCdzyyyOzk_2-kqwVWIx_Tffwg7iCJ6imnM/s320/2015-05-11+11.35.29.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVJcB7I4DKFOCP1G01M7YNWEfRqmfpTaNTwp0xZ_Z8IEXPawGupwhwfjt9ckKfRb2cHOolpokj7ky0PDohrF-0kO1uccnw5slJ0JWkRjZyer1LQBj1zdEcHFM048fpxnRUEcOmzrZ2B4Y/s1600/2015-05-11+11.16.26+Peter+and+Paul+fortress+St+Petersburg.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVJcB7I4DKFOCP1G01M7YNWEfRqmfpTaNTwp0xZ_Z8IEXPawGupwhwfjt9ckKfRb2cHOolpokj7ky0PDohrF-0kO1uccnw5slJ0JWkRjZyer1LQBj1zdEcHFM048fpxnRUEcOmzrZ2B4Y/s200/2015-05-11+11.16.26+Peter+and+Paul+fortress+St+Petersburg.jpg" width="149" /></a></span></span></div>
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<br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">It
sits on one of the city’s 42 islands in the delta of the Neva River.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Yet another example of dazzling church
interior design.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">On a less pious note
and in a visitor reception area of the fortress, a friend and I toasted the
city with the first vodka we had drunk since student days. </span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM-mph9c2ShLijMSWWn_h0pmkL4Raq4svWwj-DwJHZPkFq5vRXoa_E9Ot1xsn3GERFeVxmHeklD5C63I5RpvVkxryHSRm_dAiszvezNEdGE3ILehGqmOASv49ScNi3lBcsp0ooqVWHEF4/s1600/2015-05-11+12.32.02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM-mph9c2ShLijMSWWn_h0pmkL4Raq4svWwj-DwJHZPkFq5vRXoa_E9Ot1xsn3GERFeVxmHeklD5C63I5RpvVkxryHSRm_dAiszvezNEdGE3ILehGqmOASv49ScNi3lBcsp0ooqVWHEF4/s320/2015-05-11+12.32.02.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Before leaving, our group was treated to a
live recital of Orthodox hymns sung by a group of four priests, demonstrating
once more the power and beauty of the basso profundo voice.</span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
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<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The
State Hermitage</span></u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The Hermitage and its main building the Winter Palace is,
arguably, the most fabulous museum in the world.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Following the first Imperial residence on
site for Peter the Great in the early eighteenth century and the subsequent
building of a new palace, Catherine the Great succeeded to the throne in 1762
overseeing completion of designs which have remained largely unaltered.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The building was ransacked in October 1917 by
the Bolsheviks and gutted by the Nazis during the siege of Leningrad.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The scale, quality and impact on the senses
of subsequent and continuing restoration of the property by the city is (almost
literally) staggering.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><i>“The Russian
Empire at its most grandiose extravagant”</i> is the apt description by the St
Petersburg tourist board.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Apart from the
ethereal and transcendent splendour of the State Rooms and gorgeous artefacts,
the art collection really stands out.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We
saw masterpieces by Da Vinci, Rembrandt, Goya, El Greco, Titian, Murillo,
Veronese among others – not to mention a </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Michelangelo sculpture.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> <br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLuQby8w5R6OjHGgpoHUeino1JrE19BS77ejflXPFLfgJ30rOxgf15zJs9_AQzj58Ctwu-zcBPS3S0CEwa_ubFGOzzgtabrWT975VvVOdKlSekmFwpFqA_zCvUbvJlAyQYfzeE5PfSgdw/s1600/2015-05-12+11.52.29+Hermitage+Da+Vinci+St+Petersburg.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="149" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLuQby8w5R6OjHGgpoHUeino1JrE19BS77ejflXPFLfgJ30rOxgf15zJs9_AQzj58Ctwu-zcBPS3S0CEwa_ubFGOzzgtabrWT975VvVOdKlSekmFwpFqA_zCvUbvJlAyQYfzeE5PfSgdw/s200/2015-05-12+11.52.29+Hermitage+Da+Vinci+St+Petersburg.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Da Vinci</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqIjtKvRO7D3bl07-bA_9pc4O2YhVok1BibUvXmU8gTCHeu3XhoX4oHoR2fYzfjDUZMqDv5sFsjSvQh_7A5zj7cuvfQTI5JMeJZTCEuKL86eCj1C2q9_-vcdMn4lyfuh4BdpbpbF8ttOE/s1600/2015-05-12+11.58.53.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="149" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqIjtKvRO7D3bl07-bA_9pc4O2YhVok1BibUvXmU8gTCHeu3XhoX4oHoR2fYzfjDUZMqDv5sFsjSvQh_7A5zj7cuvfQTI5JMeJZTCEuKL86eCj1C2q9_-vcdMn4lyfuh4BdpbpbF8ttOE/s200/2015-05-12+11.58.53.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Titian</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></span><br />
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</div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A collection of paintings by the
Impressionists (Monet, Matisse, Degas, Cézanne, Gauguin as well as Picasso and
Van Gogh and others) have been relocated to another building.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Because it was not part of our tour and as I
did not make time to visit them, this omission is my only regret from the
holiday.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On the positive side, however,
it provides another excuse to make a return trip. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A friend of mine after visiting reflected on the adage about "all that glitters is not gold;" in the Hermitage, she opined that the adage does not apply since everything in the glittering palace is solid gold. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">At the end of 2014 and marking the Hermitage's 250<sup>th</sup>
anniversary, what the Times (6 Dec 2014 Rachel Campbell-Johnston) describes in its review of the year's best books as
<i>“the definitive guide”</i> to the Hermitage was published.<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftn7" name="_ftnref7" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn7;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">[7]</span></span></span></span></a></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTgCEMxahe5vr25LML-4NLLjSqmKYLgya4rK_aqN79LjTqjwKRT3yxD16G0AMGAcTrG73GUpgFqidv1B8i5CPoAnA5QH7WPxq84b4t7y8-0jvcRJrU-GoEwb9OrYV5B2fDyCCim2JcS3Y/s1600/Interiors-of-the-hermitage-st-petersburg.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTgCEMxahe5vr25LML-4NLLjSqmKYLgya4rK_aqN79LjTqjwKRT3yxD16G0AMGAcTrG73GUpgFqidv1B8i5CPoAnA5QH7WPxq84b4t7y8-0jvcRJrU-GoEwb9OrYV5B2fDyCCim2JcS3Y/s400/Interiors-of-the-hermitage-st-petersburg.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">State Hermitage, grandiose extravagance. (Source: St Petersburg tourism)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg62mc3nh0FjWuXFfmonQqHecpscuhsrdVNbpx_Mk6oVqEISjflt4jut31DrOGmIaAnhtpkhTN45NP44cAWtzEaGJ4N2lcnI9b6B0yDE6QKt23YPRmCib1v0HaQaVB2YGepEEHWKuheetQ/s1600/2015-05-12+12.57.35+Hermitage+St+Petersburg.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg62mc3nh0FjWuXFfmonQqHecpscuhsrdVNbpx_Mk6oVqEISjflt4jut31DrOGmIaAnhtpkhTN45NP44cAWtzEaGJ4N2lcnI9b6B0yDE6QKt23YPRmCib1v0HaQaVB2YGepEEHWKuheetQ/s200/2015-05-12+12.57.35+Hermitage+St+Petersburg.jpg" width="149" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Trinity
Cathedral</span></u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This is an eighteenth century church, once famed for its
exemplary collection of icons.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was
looted in the 1920’s.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Soviet plans for
its demolition were changed to use it as a warehouse.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In 1990 it was returned to the Orthodox Church
and restoration continues apace.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Its
magnificent blue domes with golden stars dominate the local skyline.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">When we visited, what seemed like an ordinary
daily mid-morning mass was in progress.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Even here, the small congregation witnessed one of the three priests
chanting in impressive basso profundo.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Nothing is ever done in small measures.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwH4oB6q7RfbVDn4mV6mKx5tma5owKMMoUH_TPfzIXZzZlHBKT7ugvehVNBdFHuDtc1I93QZ5Z0WHYaAuYMyQB4DDKt2LRgusg0wYrNUTj55u8rS37DCLvFEhHAzuc7X0ZCOd8tFnJUNA/s1600/Trinity-cathedral-st-petersburg.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwH4oB6q7RfbVDn4mV6mKx5tma5owKMMoUH_TPfzIXZzZlHBKT7ugvehVNBdFHuDtc1I93QZ5Z0WHYaAuYMyQB4DDKt2LRgusg0wYrNUTj55u8rS37DCLvFEhHAzuc7X0ZCOd8tFnJUNA/s320/Trinity-cathedral-st-petersburg.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Trinity Cathedral (Source: St Petersburg tourism)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></div>
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<br />
<span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The
Catherine Palace</span></u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This complex of buildings in Pushkin was the summer retreat of
Catherine I, the wife of Peter the Great.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Like the Hermitage and other palaces, the main building exhibits the same sense
of magnificence through imposing and colourful external appearance as well as
sumptuous interiors.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As a result of Nazi
occupation and the disappearance of lavish panels, the Palace’s Amber Room was
recreated at huge expense.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The work took
some 20 years to complete.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A montage of
black and white photographs near the exit tells a sad and graphic story of the
impact of World War 2 on this property.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5CxORrZciJj1odJSkTUQKZlFZKU6SvLvjnIYM9cFLbvMtragCCxqpEoxVUDuS0mEFhMZs6BgD250v2OQlwSEiyzeE2a4aNNVew4ap3h345j5jLRhf3s546BfUV-s-v0AM7kTg3SaS09E/s1600/2015-05-13+15.49.41+Puskin+Royal+Retreat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5CxORrZciJj1odJSkTUQKZlFZKU6SvLvjnIYM9cFLbvMtragCCxqpEoxVUDuS0mEFhMZs6BgD250v2OQlwSEiyzeE2a4aNNVew4ap3h345j5jLRhf3s546BfUV-s-v0AM7kTg3SaS09E/s320/2015-05-13+15.49.41+Puskin+Royal+Retreat.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></span></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In
general, the commitment of the Russian authorities to the restoration and conservation of its
architectural heritage does impress. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">It makes an emphatic statement - this is our beautiful Russia, proudly exuberant, daringly colourful and loud in its celebration of joy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">My home and garden will seem drab and mundane
when I return from this voyage of discovery.</span><br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU4MnrjSq1L2ohSi4i92evLyn4M5XWePuBLyUuC14y6_ActHKqiJRm3RNiG2MEX8tPDSGEdlcK5HD8CO8WtHRf2p112x0Mi8YI8Fs6gNhXyvsjLnyvI8a0RZIrcRs-zsh4vEinYtVBZ4s/s1600/Catherine-palace-tsarskoye-selo-aerialview.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU4MnrjSq1L2ohSi4i92evLyn4M5XWePuBLyUuC14y6_ActHKqiJRm3RNiG2MEX8tPDSGEdlcK5HD8CO8WtHRf2p112x0Mi8YI8Fs6gNhXyvsjLnyvI8a0RZIrcRs-zsh4vEinYtVBZ4s/s320/Catherine-palace-tsarskoye-selo-aerialview.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Catherine Palace exterior (Source: St Petersburg tourism)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt_YRStSktMp7rsuQLYspV6hj7ekNM2ADcqQjSWVxyELiLbAly_BjuQa0MHpOTbirCv0Ti9oOECH9869jw_n6RwYZ8qHS_467KHL-szgaGPCYLx_-NImZ9YnyTzDQM16oa8UbAcCCGLSs/s1600/2015-05-13+15.00.26.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt_YRStSktMp7rsuQLYspV6hj7ekNM2ADcqQjSWVxyELiLbAly_BjuQa0MHpOTbirCv0Ti9oOECH9869jw_n6RwYZ8qHS_467KHL-szgaGPCYLx_-NImZ9YnyTzDQM16oa8UbAcCCGLSs/s320/2015-05-13+15.00.26.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Catherine Palace, one interior</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The
Mariinsky Theatre</span></u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">It was a personal priority to visit and go to
an event in this theatre.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">Known during the Soviet period as the Kirov Opera and Ballet Theatre, this mid-nineteenth century building was severely damaged in the Nazi siege of Leningrad. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Accompanied by our two travelling companions, we went to see the ballet Giselle.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Like the architecture and furnishings we saw earlier in the day, this
was an artistically beautiful and lavish production both musically and dance-wise.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">When my wife told me she had booked this
trip, attending live productions in the Bolshoi and Mariinsky theatres seemed
obligatory.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Buying the tickets in
advance on-line some weeks before leaving was a good tactic in terms of seat
availability and price range, and possibly also getting a slightly better
deal.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Prices, however, are high.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Quality costs in capitalist Russia.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIPQYsvtC_BlVijSbknvA26z521xUBih6kmhKuV_9JoeeNrRdfTLnWnMn6C47bdT3muqYu5uANO5eokFK-K6pCqTqZH6uQCX_dC7VvLhe7b4i41OTcMNL0hHpALe8J2CVdR3uD-7f5niE/s1600/Mariinsky-theatre-st-petersburg.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIPQYsvtC_BlVijSbknvA26z521xUBih6kmhKuV_9JoeeNrRdfTLnWnMn6C47bdT3muqYu5uANO5eokFK-K6pCqTqZH6uQCX_dC7VvLhe7b4i41OTcMNL0hHpALe8J2CVdR3uD-7f5niE/s400/Mariinsky-theatre-st-petersburg.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mariinsky Theatre (Source: St Petersburg tourism)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSmqpTgvceluqLnhCuYo45brvGFq-Ky5kB5PioXwQoH_-KT_XKU0e-yE5gDOIye0GCscEbjBHeObrxberV4o48DiZ3iZlJ6hpMXTOF-H3oKE5yR5iTCeJsclOBJLQxtNDoX4Ytxi5pxNQ/s1600/2015-05-13+Mariinsky.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSmqpTgvceluqLnhCuYo45brvGFq-Ky5kB5PioXwQoH_-KT_XKU0e-yE5gDOIye0GCscEbjBHeObrxberV4o48DiZ3iZlJ6hpMXTOF-H3oKE5yR5iTCeJsclOBJLQxtNDoX4Ytxi5pxNQ/s1600/2015-05-13+Mariinsky.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The
Peterhof Palace</span></u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This palace, also referred to as Petrodvorets, was the elaborate suburban
palace of Peter the Great.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was
inspired by Versailles.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Just when you
think that all of the sights and wonders of these two Russian cities have been
shown to us, a final glittering example is presented.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Before leaving for the airport and the end of
the trip, the sun shone and clouds cleared to reveal the golden statues,
fountains and cascades of this fabulous estate lying about 15 miles outside the
city.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The palace and its sensuously
glistening golden sculptures look straight down at the Gulf of Finland and the
Baltic, a reminder of our northerly latitude.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8QeSBrneG3mWky8pDFgxjOVB4k8RcJcaAjtri8eqgPd6iXMz4skTI0-JPw2HGCGFY4yTjLQ3zQgls3nOHGBurMWTRkYsGqrkr2Xz61h7ml3fhLPVQ7LhxmMj187T8YcYLIGed2pSEbAU/s1600/2015-05-15+12.02.35.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8QeSBrneG3mWky8pDFgxjOVB4k8RcJcaAjtri8eqgPd6iXMz4skTI0-JPw2HGCGFY4yTjLQ3zQgls3nOHGBurMWTRkYsGqrkr2Xz61h7ml3fhLPVQ7LhxmMj187T8YcYLIGed2pSEbAU/s400/2015-05-15+12.02.35.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfVWiWJ0Z9haz9qj26UkiduTROuTW3gxQJ02x8M5dnEsAYUUXEVItco1ZvJLL4JmCOstl2RDIsF89yRyhJIfAz5I6uclh0aVpFWYGTPrVCjLwxLQso8G3_YY1ZI1wZiwynqcexqmJVd-g/s1600/2015-05-15+09.59.34.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfVWiWJ0Z9haz9qj26UkiduTROuTW3gxQJ02x8M5dnEsAYUUXEVItco1ZvJLL4JmCOstl2RDIsF89yRyhJIfAz5I6uclh0aVpFWYGTPrVCjLwxLQso8G3_YY1ZI1wZiwynqcexqmJVd-g/s640/2015-05-15+09.59.34.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> <u>
</u></span></span></span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><u>Restaurants</u> that I would recommend are two we
visited in St Petersburg.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The first was
a discovery completely by chance in a street which looked unpromising.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This was because of the derelict state of
neighbouring properties.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Despite that,
Make (which means poppy in Russian)<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftn8" name="_ftnref8" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn8;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">[8]</span></span></span></span></a>
was where we had the best service, the tastiest version of St Petersburg’s
signature dish (beef stroganoff), and the finest after-dinner vodka.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>All of this regardless of the fact that the
menu was only available in Cyrillic script.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span> </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The other restaurant was a business and tourist-oriented high-end establishment
recommended by our tour operator close to the Mariinsky Theatre (ipso facto
more expensive).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">It is called </span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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</xml><![endif]--></span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">Садко. </span>Sadko is a renowned character in Russian folk tales, a merchant who played the harp.<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftn9" name="_ftnref9" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn9;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">[9]</span></span></span></span></a>
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Our group of seven people sat in the
middle table shown on the website’s home page underneath one of its scarlet Murano
glass chandeliers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Borscht soup, fresh carp
from the Baltic, and blini with fresh berries and yoghurt, followed by a glass
of 7-times distilled Imperial Russian vodka - <span class="def-body">будем здоровы</span></span>.<span class="def-body"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A good place for a final night out.</span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">©</span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Michael McSorley 2015</span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"></span></div>
<div style="mso-element: footnote-list;">
<br clear="all" />
<hr align="left" size="1" width="33%" />
<div id="ftn1" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<div class="MsoFootnoteText">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftnref1" name="_ftn1" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn1;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">[1]</span></span></span></span></a> <a href="http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-europe-32668511">http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-europe-32668511</a></div>
<div class="MsoFootnoteText">
<br /></div>
</div>
<div id="ftn2" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<div class="MsoFootnoteText">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftnref2" name="_ftn2" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn2;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">[2]</span></span></span></span></a>
The 4 Marks of the Christian Church - deriving from the First Council of
Constantinople in the year 381 AD. </div>
</div>
<div id="ftn3" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<div class="MsoFootnoteText">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftnref3" name="_ftn3" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn3;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">[3]</span></span></span></span></a> Rachmaninov's Vespers recording, an example (not by the Mariinsky Chorus):- <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EzeifvBH_cs">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EzeifvBH_cs</a></div>
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<br /></div>
</div>
<div id="ftn4" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<div class="MsoFootnoteText">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftnref4" name="_ftn4" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn4;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">[4]</span></span></span></span></a> <a href="http://rt.com/news/baby-grants-begin-in-russia/">http://rt.com/news/baby-grants-begin-in-russia/</a></div>
</div>
<div id="ftn5" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<div class="MsoFootnoteText">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftnref5" name="_ftn5" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn5;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">[5]</span></span></span></span></a> “48
Hours in Moscow” Shaun Walker Belfast Telegraph 8 September 2012</div>
</div>
<div id="ftn6" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<div class="MsoFootnoteText">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftnref6" name="_ftn6" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn6;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">[6]</span></span></span></span></a> “48 Hours in St Petersburg” Chris Leadbeater Belfast Telegraph 28 Aug 2012</div>
</div>
<div id="ftn7" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<div class="MsoFootnoteText">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftnref7" name="_ftn7" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn7;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">[7]</span></span></span></span></a>
“The State Hermitage: Treasures from the Museum’s Collections.” Booth Clibborn
£175</div>
</div>
<div id="ftn8" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<div class="MsoFootnoteText">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftnref8" name="_ftn8" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn8;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">[8]</span></span></span></span></a> <a href="http://www.makirestobar.ru/">http://www.makirestobar.ru/</a></div>
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<br /></div>
</div>
<div id="ftn9" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<div class="MsoFootnoteText">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftnref9" name="_ftn9" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn9;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">[9]</span></span></span></span></a> <a href="http://www.sadko-rst.ru/">http://www.sadko-rst.ru/</a></div>
<div class="MsoFootnoteText">
Note: all photos are copyright of the blog author, except for five as marked sourced from St Petersburg.com</div>
</div>
</div>
Michael McSorleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06352593190581090069noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1873197369166122223.post-71158399319223928242014-10-30T06:18:00.003-07:002014-11-04T09:14:58.835-08:00The Netherlands<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<u><span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Going
Dutch</span></span></u></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Never has a trip to the Netherlands been so appealing.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Apart from the ease of travelling, beautiful scenery,
great restaurants, the strength of sterling and the dollar against the euro,
Holland’s enormous investment in the arts makes a visit to this low country
almost obligatory.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The galleries and
museums of Amsterdam and The Hague provide a wonderful excuse to indulge in
cultural tourism.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">My wife and I visited both cities on a four day trip in
mid-September.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>I admit that the summery
weather may have biased our opinion, as temperatures made sightseeing easy and pleasurable.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There was no rain and most days were warm
enough to wear shorts and tee-shirts.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDrbq7q-7iiJ2mYMda3ooj_xgZ-zTQBF3JE2v0-7Murz9G25Qumw6pNyJZEKafpTwfgZNNh_oNszXCfp0z9rjBpPau919br_0Kb71VC2BWiZGPk8WoZI2F0hSVC5QFb0kpawGp2KlAMOk/s1600/041.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDrbq7q-7iiJ2mYMda3ooj_xgZ-zTQBF3JE2v0-7Murz9G25Qumw6pNyJZEKafpTwfgZNNh_oNszXCfp0z9rjBpPau919br_0Kb71VC2BWiZGPk8WoZI2F0hSVC5QFb0kpawGp2KlAMOk/s1600/041.JPG" height="149" width="200" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">For us there were three big draws, a symphony orchestra
and two art galleries - the Royal Concertgebouw, the Rijksmuseum, and the
Mauritshuis.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We booked entrance and
travel tickets in advance on-line for all venues, saving us money as well as queueing time.</span></div>
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<u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The Royal Concertgebouw</span></u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The Royal Concertgebouw is one of the world’s leading
symphony orchestras, (and even described as such on their own website)<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftn1" name="_ftnref1" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn1;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">[1]</span></span></span></span></a>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Quality aside, quantity follows as key facts
about this orchestra involve large numbers.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Last year it celebrated its 125<sup>th</sup>
anniversary.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>It performs 80 concerts a
year at the Concertgebouw concert hall in Amsterdam and a further 40 abroad.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It has released more than 1,100 LPs, CDs and
DVDs.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>Without taking account of
television and radio broadcasts, it reaches 250,000 concert goers a year.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Its biggest number involves a world record,
music air miles.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It has fairly recently
become the first orchestra to complete a global tour which included the 6
continents, all in a single year.</span></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBzcjc8VMSMs7z9frQv3qqY1O-FpszghPoH6Bs43OZVjhRLIjTVjPPjZzT8RC7WNWm-_TX2hb5G0nh9VG8i6ccVdbJOZ3qYEGMvUO2QCh7-VzNm6N_mPkfCkv3tJo2BcelUwWXX_IIP6k/s1600/RoyalConcertgebouwOrkest.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBzcjc8VMSMs7z9frQv3qqY1O-FpszghPoH6Bs43OZVjhRLIjTVjPPjZzT8RC7WNWm-_TX2hb5G0nh9VG8i6ccVdbJOZ3qYEGMvUO2QCh7-VzNm6N_mPkfCkv3tJo2BcelUwWXX_IIP6k/s1600/RoyalConcertgebouwOrkest.jpg" height="425" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The magnificent concert hall seats almost 2,000
people.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The orchestra’s chief conductor
since September 2004 is the legendary Mariss Jansons, now in his tenth and
final season in charge.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A sign of the
permanence and stability of the Concertgebouw is that he is only its sixth
chief conductor.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">His presence was as good a reason as any to attend on
this occasion.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>The programme was
another.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>It began with the well-known 15
minute overture by Rossini “The Thieving Magpie.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This was followed by Shostakovich’s concerto
for piano, string orchestra and trumpet, with Prokofiev’s fifth symphony after
the interval.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Our seats cost about £26 each, the cheapest in the hall, but
well worth it and in a good position.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">As
this was the first of four sold-out performances of the programme, my rapid
mathematical calculation estimated that takings for the total set might be not
far off half a million Euro.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Arriving early to collect tickets, we were pleasantly
surprised to discover that our admission price included drinks not just before
the concert, but again at the interval.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This would be a popular perk in Belfast.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">We sat about two rows from the front, underneath the
stage with a clear view.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>The soloist for
the Shostakovich concerto was the beautiful young Chinese virtuoso Yuja Wang<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftn2" name="_ftnref2" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn2;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">[2]</span></span></span></span></a>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>A musicians’ agent told me a week later that,
aside from her pianistic brilliance, she is known to wear contemporary and eye-catching
outfits.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>On this occasion, she wore a
dazzling long dress.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Both sides of the
skirt had a lengthy slit which (I admit) distracted my musical attention slightly
from time to time.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The Concertgebouw’s performance was likewise a thing of
artistic beauty, tantalizing, and deserving of the standing ovations from an
enthusiastic audience.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>The experience
was indeed something to blog home about.</span></div>
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<u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The Rijksmuseum </span></u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Amsterdam’s other main attraction was described by a
leading travel writer<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftn3" name="_ftnref3" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn3;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">[3]</span></span></span></span></a> thus:- </span></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">“The miraculously resurrected
Rijksmuseum with its formidable collection of art and which took one third of a
billion pounds and 10 years” to complete...</span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">It opened in 1885 and now contains 8000 works of art (including sculptures, giant dolls houses, ceramics) in
over 80 rooms and over four floors.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Its
most celebrated work, Rembrandt’s Night Watch, is the only painting returned to
its original position.</span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgicf8JAuactMPYoes6UC0rn9XtBDHMCqbRCGnsjgmhUQ-3LFYjJr2C7m8GV37zioCToeXWafCg0gHV6Z7XQY9s46hKsC8_BE2jeU9zkBDzkvkiPOJiSyWXDuswqRpD7jZIPBNcroT-8_E/s1600/015.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgicf8JAuactMPYoes6UC0rn9XtBDHMCqbRCGnsjgmhUQ-3LFYjJr2C7m8GV37zioCToeXWafCg0gHV6Z7XQY9s46hKsC8_BE2jeU9zkBDzkvkiPOJiSyWXDuswqRpD7jZIPBNcroT-8_E/s1600/015.JPG" height="320" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Night Watch</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">As well as Rembrandt masterpieces, there are also works by
Vermeer, Goya, Van Gogh, Mondrian and many more.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>The handout floor plan is a mini art-work and
a perfect souvenir.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A London journalist describes<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftn4" name="_ftnref4" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn4;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">[4]</span></span></span></span></a> the place as</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 36.0pt;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">“a truly beautiful
building free from the white-walled hauteur that characterises so many
galleries...”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It includes Delft ceramics
and other art forms “gradually revealing 800 years of the history of Holland
told through myriad forms of art...”</span></i><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">As Simon Calder put it, the Rijksmuseum is the hottest
ticket in Europe.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span><br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfNUIeiFO1rpZYi2buhNIXBkDw7SK-w7NfFmKpy_zpi0uef0Tgb6-AQ0gsfddv2jld-rxdCyyovQgaaSMX_X5_NrjJylWaRBg3Kdb4fk2qVvawtArS71yQb8CnZcjRm3qdBZG_05bw-24/s1600/012.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfNUIeiFO1rpZYi2buhNIXBkDw7SK-w7NfFmKpy_zpi0uef0Tgb6-AQ0gsfddv2jld-rxdCyyovQgaaSMX_X5_NrjJylWaRBg3Kdb4fk2qVvawtArS71yQb8CnZcjRm3qdBZG_05bw-24/s1600/012.JPG" height="238" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpTOk8kIEnLjo8la2Tcy6f9ceymBPEi1bJy9d2GSbKd406N9xZXbHLrhajfeSceGxzMFBlX55yluwTq2yGlKFKNThGc5ter0Fxbz2nqN29R9EdYtx5mpKLGflFSGhtmm1SJeNfa1zKMnU/s1600/022.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpTOk8kIEnLjo8la2Tcy6f9ceymBPEi1bJy9d2GSbKd406N9xZXbHLrhajfeSceGxzMFBlX55yluwTq2yGlKFKNThGc5ter0Fxbz2nqN29R9EdYtx5mpKLGflFSGhtmm1SJeNfa1zKMnU/s1600/022.JPG" height="200" width="149" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguLkdCZDkiwkEOEV2s-LT5yBCmRI1sdZ-sPoNUnEqTJy43VRjRn2GoU6sutISkcRFlrGJnnvDX5xcJZYL2gF_mnr7-jbXb1_8XMjUgYs4XXJNOsH46H2Tx6Zs8Y6gYi_SiH-9sDPT2ZTc/s1600/024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguLkdCZDkiwkEOEV2s-LT5yBCmRI1sdZ-sPoNUnEqTJy43VRjRn2GoU6sutISkcRFlrGJnnvDX5xcJZYL2gF_mnr7-jbXb1_8XMjUgYs4XXJNOsH46H2Tx6Zs8Y6gYi_SiH-9sDPT2ZTc/s1600/024.JPG" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The good news that I
bear is that it’s not expensive.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Our
entry fee worked out as approximately £6 per person.</span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The Mauritshuis</span></u></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">It was the same travel writer who persuaded me to visit the
Mauritshuis.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>He commented<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftn5" name="_ftnref5" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn5;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">[5]</span></span></span></span></a>:-</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 36.0pt;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">“Two years of
reconstruction have opened up the Mauritshuis impressively...marvel at the
collection of Golden Age paintings hung in the home of a merchant who made his
money in Brazil.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Rembrandt’s Anatomy
Lesson of Dr Nicolaes Tulp is back from loan; Carel Fabritius’s Goldfinch has
had its perch moved to a more prominent position befitting of Rembrandt’s
pupil.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Vermeer’s Girl with the Pearl Earring
is the star of the show...”</span></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 36.0pt;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh686tQrNATZqISmGLe8ghvUN1ucXoSocBw3KvJZ31PU4o3G430LQ4MPZFiBmoZFupeJ0bqSscK-gH81Vk5jBd5-LkJaT4YezSSeFTy2AU5Gs4Y5zvLYLHg9ZffYAoxplX9FFGG403297Q/s1600/053.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh686tQrNATZqISmGLe8ghvUN1ucXoSocBw3KvJZ31PU4o3G430LQ4MPZFiBmoZFupeJ0bqSscK-gH81Vk5jBd5-LkJaT4YezSSeFTy2AU5Gs4Y5zvLYLHg9ZffYAoxplX9FFGG403297Q/s1600/053.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anatomy Lesson of Dr Nicolaes Tulp</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The journey on a double-decker train from Amsterdam to
the Hague took less than 50 minutes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>It
offered pleasing views over the pan-flat Dutch countryside, featuring more
canals, occasional windmills, and neatly groomed fields where flowers bloom.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Some were still thriving in the latter half
of September.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">When we arrived in Den Hague Centraal Station at 11 a.m, we were
surprised at the substantial crowds walking alongside us to the city centre and
the Mauritshuis.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">About five minutes
walking and we could see the gallery.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">At
this point the volume of people was becoming larger.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">The sight of some middle-aged ladies dressed
in bright orange summer hats and a few elderly men wearing veterans war medals
aroused my curiosity.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Then we spotted a cordon manned by police.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Our entry to the gallery was blocked.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">A lady police officer advised us that the
building was closed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">She informed us
that the King was visiting to make a speech and that the gallery would open
again at 4 p.m.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Everything was
chaotically orderly and there was a distinct atmosphere of jollity.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Time for a coffee.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Our waiter
explained that on this day every year the annual budget is presented, the King
speaks, and there is a lot of royal ceremonial.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">At last an explanation for the crowds, the dressing up and long line of diplomatic
limousines carrying their nations' flags.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">I suspect that we were the only people in Holland who didn't know about
this important annual event.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">We got to see the Girl with the Pearl Earring and the Goldfinch later
having spent the day watching the impressive pageantry of the royal parade and
walking round the wide streets of the city’s ambassadorial district.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxrMezY9lEZdZGbfR_E5uZ79C1HNTUgnG9atX5qIOKl_57H7CK5ycApa8-QzdRw2xgqI-GLPKFDspl7F8H_pSdgJUmKe3uyxG__3847AYuyL6vCgaNo8MxiyF37pAx8N2EWYRrjhcFK7s/s1600/051.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxrMezY9lEZdZGbfR_E5uZ79C1HNTUgnG9atX5qIOKl_57H7CK5ycApa8-QzdRw2xgqI-GLPKFDspl7F8H_pSdgJUmKe3uyxG__3847AYuyL6vCgaNo8MxiyF37pAx8N2EWYRrjhcFK7s/s1600/051.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM3fikZf46IAEMujhzW-Tim6uIrHEkY83hLO7lHvzUk7SfJD3SGjtRoKy8H_3xXfHkvmvOIFsZBLgGNMZcUsyWfRCtj5wZhWY43UcDj_ILDeUHbVyAe6_B_FPJjSx1IgqoLRyu-MlZg4A/s1600/052.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM3fikZf46IAEMujhzW-Tim6uIrHEkY83hLO7lHvzUk7SfJD3SGjtRoKy8H_3xXfHkvmvOIFsZBLgGNMZcUsyWfRCtj5wZhWY43UcDj_ILDeUHbVyAe6_B_FPJjSx1IgqoLRyu-MlZg4A/s1600/052.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mauritshuis information plaques</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Apart from Vermeer and Fabritius, we also saw
works by artists including Breugel, Peter Paul Reubens, Holbein, Rembrandt, and
Frans Hals.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">What a privilege to stand a
foot away from such celebrated art, and worth the £11.50 entry fee per person.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu0dA6-wM_C4e6NZRUG0wlRc-YqfJZg9dyoZ2McPgsJpJa4ZjAG3yaOrz-CtPg6SlgLLgfAZJ3CQN1blDUkinAbhwLfiOVQ2PJ7VWOurT1bGjXlHI8y6wqYCVMbxfqrZ2ngC3Fw7a0a3M/s1600/059.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu0dA6-wM_C4e6NZRUG0wlRc-YqfJZg9dyoZ2McPgsJpJa4ZjAG3yaOrz-CtPg6SlgLLgfAZJ3CQN1blDUkinAbhwLfiOVQ2PJ7VWOurT1bGjXlHI8y6wqYCVMbxfqrZ2ngC3Fw7a0a3M/s1600/059.JPG" height="640" width="478" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Girl With The Pearl Earring</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">I spoke to a personable local man.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>After listing by rote the all-female roll-call of Dutch monarchs for the
last 120 years up to Queen Beatrix, he informed me that the new King Willem-Alexander
is the Netherland's first King since 1890.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">We went to the capital and</span></span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> seat of the Dutch
Government to see the Girl with the Pearl Earring and the Goldfinch and we
ended up with a free bonus, witnessing the annual event known as Princes Day<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftn6" name="_ftnref6" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn6;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">[6]</span></span></span></span></a>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The royal procession is the climax of four
days of national partying.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>The event featured
cavalry and military bands in full dress uniforms, followed by with King Willem
and his Argentinean wife Queen Máxima in their golden carriage. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>A dazzling riot of colourful regal splendour.</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwHwQxMJDrZDZUobOl8zQigU3ZzKL-HidQRvi8O3tHsJ-74R6R9Waz6Pns7FnCAyJDC1QjEvWU1Iqp0GwLQuBEAjOukLgD8ziyR3Kw5XZUO_pczbYms17t14VIVsmnsLNrHUXWu-lRU78/s1600/048.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwHwQxMJDrZDZUobOl8zQigU3ZzKL-HidQRvi8O3tHsJ-74R6R9Waz6Pns7FnCAyJDC1QjEvWU1Iqp0GwLQuBEAjOukLgD8ziyR3Kw5XZUO_pczbYms17t14VIVsmnsLNrHUXWu-lRU78/s1600/048.JPG" height="298" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crowds watch King Willem-Alexander of Orange in the golden carriage</td></tr>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><u><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Anne Frank and Our Lord in the Attic</span></u></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">On our final day back in Amsterdam, we visited two museums which powerfully recount
episodes from significant periods of Dutch history.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">They share a vital theme - the human impact
of religious intolerance.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">The Anne Frank House explains and illustrates the German occupation of
the Netherlands during the Second World War.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">The story is based on the diary of the Jewish business-owner Otto Frank’s
daughter, begun when she was only 13 years old.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Eight people hid in an annexe of the building at Prinsengracht 263 for
almost two years.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">This is a museum which presents an example of shameful world history
that burns the emotional heartstrings, even if you are already aware of the
story.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is still relevant and resonates
strongly with contemporary events in other places.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">The value of a place like the Anne Frank
House<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftn7" name="_ftnref7" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn7;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">[7]</span></span></span></span></a> is that thanks to the
efforts of a heroic teenager, this museum reminds us of the awful impact of extreme
intolerance.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ7UKScmb2vnE7II_SNltOCVKtUPqvdtOJCIdMA1qMlWqoET0SQrQn4VDfldSypdvdOrMBcd9MLSN7pAunRtEUfBuo9iCazeInrbVJ7_6p0bfIrjfaEMSUGBuSQ3v_FEY7B848zeuJoA0/s1600/061.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ7UKScmb2vnE7II_SNltOCVKtUPqvdtOJCIdMA1qMlWqoET0SQrQn4VDfldSypdvdOrMBcd9MLSN7pAunRtEUfBuo9iCazeInrbVJ7_6p0bfIrjfaEMSUGBuSQ3v_FEY7B848zeuJoA0/s1600/061.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anne Frank House museum - ticket queue</td></tr>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftn8" name="_ftnref8" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn8;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">[8]</span></span></span></span></a> (Our Lord in the Attic)
may, at the moment, be a less well-known museum outside the Netherlands.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">It is, however, Amsterdam’s second oldest
(after the Rijksmuseum) having opened in 1887.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I am grateful to a friend in Suffolk, England and another in Belfast for suggesting it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">The property is located in the bustling city
centre at Oudezijds Voorburgwal.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Telling
the story of religious prejudice from an earlier period of Dutch history, this
museum presents a message from Holland’s Golden Age.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">At that time it was forbidden to celebrate mass in public.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">The top floor of this seventeenth century
canal house is the best-surviving example in the city of a building which was
converted into a Roman Catholic Church.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">The elaborate and beautiful conversion was undetectable from the outside.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This was to ensure that there could be no
appearance of its housing of a Catholic place of worship inside.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixOBxqgsHIx9kcL_3CxlgvPOg97xm_a3AG6-ZR_Ey-mWEeRcSDR9GXuIWKWmoi4jrtMb3UMOv0qE8_ghABbdC0pFxw-2MzGiJixra70Vvp41X-Q1hU0WEZ1aBmLR7gI18KyiRm9E9VEY0/s1600/071.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixOBxqgsHIx9kcL_3CxlgvPOg97xm_a3AG6-ZR_Ey-mWEeRcSDR9GXuIWKWmoi4jrtMb3UMOv0qE8_ghABbdC0pFxw-2MzGiJixra70Vvp41X-Q1hU0WEZ1aBmLR7gI18KyiRm9E9VEY0/s1600/071.JPG" height="320" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ons' Lieve Heer op Solder (Our Lord in the Attic)</td></tr>
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</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">With visitor numbers rising substantially, architectural plans are presented
on-site with the proposals to conserve the exhibits and develop the museum. This will include the re-opening of a tunnel to the building across the street.</span></span></div>
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><u><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Hotel and Restaurants</span></u></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Our choice of accommodation was dictated by convenience to The
Concertgebouw concert hall and the Rijksmuseum.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Following one of Simon Calder’s recommendations, we chose The Owl hotel
at Roemer Visscherstraat 1<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftn9" name="_ftnref9" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn9;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">[9]</span></span></span></span></a>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>From Schipol airport, the best route is
the197 bus to the nearby Leidseplein at a cost of five euro.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Whereas the room-rate for this friendly and comfortable 3-star hotel exceeded
his figure, proximity to Amsterdam’s two main attractions won out.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">I understand that the hotel uses what it
terms as dynamic pricing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The occurrence of
some kind of conference led to rates being hiked up during our stay,
unfortunately for us.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Our hotel was less than 5 minutes walk from both venues and also close
to the city’s largest park, the Vondelpark.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">This is an ideal place to observe Amsterdammers cycling to work.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">There are so many cyclists and many types of
bicycles, some featuring bathtub-like contraptions which can transport children
and/or shopping.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">In the pleasant
sunshine, as I walked and stretched each morning before breakfast, the sight of
the local citizens exercising their way into each new day left me with the abiding
impression that these are happy and healthy people.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">A joyful experience.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Two restaurants stand out.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">On our
first night, we dined in an Indonesian restaurant called Kartika<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftn10" name="_ftnref10" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn10;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">[10]</span></span></span></span></a> at Overtoom 68.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At the waiter’s suggestion we tried a menu which
was an equivalent of Spanish tapas – small plates of more than a dozen
different delicious house specialities.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">It occurred to me that the presence of Indonesian restaurants in the
Netherlands reflects its colonial exploits in the Dutch East Indies.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Whatever about the history, this was great
food.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">On our final night, en route to hear the orchestra, and quite by chance,
we found a restaurant called The Seafood Bar<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftn11" name="_ftnref11" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn11;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">[11]</span></span></span></span></a> at Van Baerlestraat
5.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">This contemporary establishment
offered an enormous array of fish dishes, which looked modern and stylish, and
they tasted superb. </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">A bowl of crustacean glory, in the words of one diner.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Highs and
lows</span></u></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Reflecting
on our short break, people’s pre-conceptions of the Netherlands are of drugs
cafes and sex parlours, like going for a high in a low country.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">But as Annabelle Thorpe<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftn12" name="_ftnref12" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn12;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">[12]</span></span></span></span></a>
put it:-</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 36.0pt; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">“Amsterdam has two very different
faces...the red light district and the sophisticated city that’s all about
history and art and beauty and style.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The two can co-exist.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But if
it’s a contest, right now the art lovers are beating the stoners hands down and
the city is enjoying a renaissance because of it.”</i></span></div>
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</xml><![endif]-->A trip in
modern Holland does indeed justify the use of the H-word, high - as in culture.</span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> <span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">©Michael
McSorley 2014</span></span></div>
<div style="mso-element: footnote-list;">
<br clear="all" />
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<div id="ftn1" style="mso-element: footnote;">
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftnref1" name="_ftn1" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn1;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">[1]</span></span></span></span></a> <a href="http://www.concertgebouworkest.nl/en/orchestra/">http://www.concertgebouworkest.nl/en/orchestra/</a></div>
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftnref2" name="_ftn2" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn2;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">[2]</span></span></span></span></a> <a href="http://www.yujawang.com/about/">http://www.yujawang.com/about/</a></div>
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<br /></div>
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<div id="ftn3" style="mso-element: footnote;">
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftnref3" name="_ftn3" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn3;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">[3]</span></span></span></span></a> Simon
Calder Belfast Telegraph magazine travel “48 Hours in Amsterdam” 29 June 2013</div>
</div>
<div id="ftn4" style="mso-element: footnote;">
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftnref4" name="_ftn4" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn4;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">[4]</span></span></span></span></a>
Annabelle Thorpe The Times Weekend Travel “A Weekend in Amsterdam 20 April 2013</div>
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftnref5" name="_ftn5" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn5;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">[5]</span></span></span></span></a>
Simon Calder Belfast Telegraph magazine travel “48 Hours in The Hague.” 28 June
2014</div>
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftnref7" name="_ftn7" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn7;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">[7]</span></span></span></span></a> <a href="http://www.annefrank.org/">www.annefrank.org</a></div>
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftnref8" name="_ftn8" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn8;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">[8]</span></span></span></span></a> <a href="http://www.opsolder.nl/">www.opsolder.nl</a></div>
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftnref9" name="_ftn9" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn9;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">[9]</span></span></span></span></a> <a href="http://www.owl-hotel.nl/gb/">http://www.owl-hotel.nl/gb/</a></div>
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftnref10" name="_ftn10" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn10;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">[10]</span></span></span></span></a> <a href="http://www.finerestaurant.nl/">www.finerestaurant.nl</a></div>
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftnref11" name="_ftn11" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn11;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">[11]</span></span></span></span></a>
www.theseafoodbar.nl</div>
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftnref12" name="_ftn12" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn12;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">[12]</span></span></span></span></a>
The Times Weekend Travel “A Weekend in Amsterdam 20 April 2013</div>
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Michael McSorleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06352593190581090069noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1873197369166122223.post-21579625928161570002014-08-27T11:37:00.001-07:002014-10-03T08:23:27.573-07:00Scotland<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">September 2014</span></u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Has Scotland ever had a more important month?</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Perhaps not just Scotland.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>People in the rest of the United Kingdom, and
further afield, are abandoning political apathy as they await the result of the
suspense story which is the long-awaited referendum on September 18.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Or as a London journalist<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftn1" name="_ftnref1" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn1;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">[1]</span></span></span></span></a> put it recently:-</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">“it’s almost a relief,
as an English Brit, not to have to come to a decision about that deceptively
simple referendum question </span></i><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Should
Scotland be an independent country?<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My usual rule of thumb on Scottish questions
(what would the Proclaimers do?) doesn’t seem quite adequate on this occasion.”</i></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The refrains of their 1988 song - “I’m gonna be (500
miles)" - sung in pronounced Scottish accents by Auchtermuchty twins rekindles
fond memories of last month’s Commonwealth Games.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The image of a Jamaican resident, the fastest
man on earth, gyrating to a paean to Scottish success became an unintentional global
highlight of a glorious summer of sport.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Commonwealth Games</span></u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Organised and hosted superbly by Scotland’s second city,
the most important outcome was an unexpectedly high medal haul for the home
nation.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>If ever there were an
advertisement of collective national determination and pride there it was, emphatic
in full public view.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The Games were intended as a respite from politics
economics and the daily grind.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>And yet,
observers couldn’t help speculating whether or not the exuberant performances
of Scotland’s athletes might somehow sprinkle magic dust and a smidin of momentum
over the Yes campaign.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">One easily-quantified fact was the enormous
boost that the Games provided to Scotland’s image and tourism industry.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>For marketing professionals, this must be an
easy sell anyway.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Here is a place with a
unique appeal and a clear identity.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Maybe
time to remind the world that people make Glasgow – and Scotland too for that
matter. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">It has, after all, been a few
years since Braveheart hit the big screens.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Visitors admire, nay watch with jealousy, the unselfconscious
pride that Scots take in parading their folklore and customs. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>The sight and sounds of massed ranks of kilted
Scotsmen and women with droning bagpipes at events like the Edinburgh Tattoo,
the artistry of Scottish traditional dancing including the sword dance, the
wearing of tartan national dress at weddings and international rugby matches –
all of this makes an indelible impact on outsiders.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Shared heritage</span></u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Ireland, both north and south, can easily identify with
this display of cultural pride.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The
Scots are our celtic siblings. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The
comedian Billy Connolly joked once that the reason why the Scots and Irish are
mad is that we have become bewildered by switching populations on countless
occasions throughout our history.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">These repeated population movements substantially
pre-date (and also post-date) the seventeenth century Plantation of
Ulster.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>There is evidence that the
Romans’ original name for Ireland was Scotia.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The Scoti people were originally Irish but later resettled in Scotland.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
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</span></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">According to the Trinity College Dublin website:- In “</span>The
Book of Armagh folio 16v<br />a<span style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> text inserted around the year 1005
celebrates Brian Boru as</span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> Imperator Scotorum</i> <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">(Emperor of the Irish</i>). It was written to record an agreement
between Brian and Ireland’s most powerful church, Armagh."</span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>As I said at my son’s recent wedding in a
twelfth century castle in quaint Quothquan South Lanarkshire, this process of
exchange has continued through the ages right up to the modern era.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">So much so that, with two daughters and a son
now living and married in Scotland, this family can claim to be helping the
relationship on its special way.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The music and dancing of Ireland and Scotland, both in
traditional and modernised forms, are enjoyed throughout Europe and further
afield.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The sheer depth of beauty evoked
by the instrumentation and singing stimulates the full range of emotions from
haunting sadness to ecstatic happiness.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The North Uist songstress Julie Fowlis<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftn2" name="_ftnref2" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn2;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">[2]</span></span></span></span></a>, who sings in Scots Gaelic
as well as in English, achieves this feat in a style and language similar to
Donegal’s Altan<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftn3" name="_ftnref3" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn3;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">[3]</span></span></span></span></a>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>And almost as if to dare to take on the Scots
at their own speciality, the Field Marshal Montgomery Pipe Band from County
Antrim has won the World Pipe Band Championship in Glasgow for the tenth time<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftn4" name="_ftnref4" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn4;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">[4]</span></span></span></span></a>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Omnes ad unum.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Kilts, clans, ceilidhs, jigs and reels, not to mention uisce
bheatha, folk musicians, and ancient games like shinty and hurling and are
examples of the common heritage of both nations.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>So too are the sonorous and clueful Gaelic place-names
and surnames, signposted bilingually throughout Scotland.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Invention</span></u></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Scotland has inspired some of the world’s great
inventors.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Consider the achievements of people like Alexander Graham
Bell, John Louden McAdam, Thomas Telford, John Logie Baird, James Watt and Adam
Smith.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Where would the world be without telephones,
macadamised road surfacing, design of roads bridges and canals, television, the
steam engine condenser, modern economics and the Age of Enlightenment? </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Scottish inventiveness carries the hallmarks of gravitas,
originality and quality.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Natural beauty</span></u></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></u></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The country’s geographical landscape is a priceless
asset.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Travelling outside the
magnificence of cosmopolitan Edinburgh and Glasgow, the splendours of rural
Scotland stir the senses.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>The natural
beauty of the Caledonian countryside provides us all with a mesmerising variety
of scenic splendour which is way beyond a value.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I have been lucky to visit places like Orkney with its
majestic archaeology at Skara Brae; the Isle of Lewis where Sunday is special, strictly
observed and Gaelic is the first language; the Isle of Skye where our family surname is
used in Portree’s central square; Highland Games; National Trust Scotland properties such as Culzean Castle in Ayrshire; and more recently the rolling hills and
streams of the Borders.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivKpEAaaKKcowrnzcWEXJP-Q6w6OzMKWUYhM8RawEwOCJfZsaJ2wVoxzos7Ko6P6sB7D2lTCEhbh-ZQIYT44XP8PoP7v62C_AhBrIqmhR8WNsGtAEnRIUxIdUzlp91Q_2JSps7v-oufHs/s1600/DSCF3904.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivKpEAaaKKcowrnzcWEXJP-Q6w6OzMKWUYhM8RawEwOCJfZsaJ2wVoxzos7Ko6P6sB7D2lTCEhbh-ZQIYT44XP8PoP7v62C_AhBrIqmhR8WNsGtAEnRIUxIdUzlp91Q_2JSps7v-oufHs/s1600/DSCF3904.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Skara Brae Neolithic Orkney World Heritage site</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTaUw7UBONJ0EDLxWt5WGQUBjygLLJrdOKYZ_OpA9RDF0kDH5Z5qLQMcvHppWFnsP6_80eQkCU5w9GGwQ6-edr1CRT05tfrhzmFdEreYxjNY3zS1ilH2OveVV8qRBuI0KfkmTXO8gv8ZE/s1600/2007+August+Scotland+145.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTaUw7UBONJ0EDLxWt5WGQUBjygLLJrdOKYZ_OpA9RDF0kDH5Z5qLQMcvHppWFnsP6_80eQkCU5w9GGwQ6-edr1CRT05tfrhzmFdEreYxjNY3zS1ilH2OveVV8qRBuI0KfkmTXO8gv8ZE/s1600/2007+August+Scotland+145.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Somerled Square Portree, Isle of Skye</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjJslb0fYAz91OcDy9ir5432TwgiNm4G1P-wWfh3aAJru_O6ENfIZzvh3K8YJ-jw3zyUKL8VL1auYoVUrcg2RyJ3bMqZP5PPZ7anbSoSKfMQVAJsN5PhQnZiYfmm8T9WRLQsy-hFERsKY/s1600/2007+August+Scotland+171.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjJslb0fYAz91OcDy9ir5432TwgiNm4G1P-wWfh3aAJru_O6ENfIZzvh3K8YJ-jw3zyUKL8VL1auYoVUrcg2RyJ3bMqZP5PPZ7anbSoSKfMQVAJsN5PhQnZiYfmm8T9WRLQsy-hFERsKY/s1600/2007+August+Scotland+171.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Massed bands bagpipes & drums - Highland Games Crieff</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQXHuEb_z0APYg98sVAssdqR3eKy_Ywjc4mSEPEwlwLa_JrWwObd09D4bbI4OKrr_TRqO3uTprfYbYMuonSrwJJBL7JrZohzzrhZdszaYV-lUblwXC-z87QsL3G0viCFXoCR32JoIaLBg/s1600/2007+August+Scotland+214.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQXHuEb_z0APYg98sVAssdqR3eKy_Ywjc4mSEPEwlwLa_JrWwObd09D4bbI4OKrr_TRqO3uTprfYbYMuonSrwJJBL7JrZohzzrhZdszaYV-lUblwXC-z87QsL3G0viCFXoCR32JoIaLBg/s1600/2007+August+Scotland+214.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tossing the caber - Highland Games Crieff</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS9ntKYWXSMN0PmpS9ErlqdAcatDk9s2tCTLaLCtOpKsvfiFZ9Lr60Yugxkxtyz-6eEaPoerQWhWkrhcHhG2VY-ZmMf8acy5WZq49KxlBrWljO3jXQ60h8eeQOwFczyC7iGmtBhtuTHVk/s1600/DSCF8110.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS9ntKYWXSMN0PmpS9ErlqdAcatDk9s2tCTLaLCtOpKsvfiFZ9Lr60Yugxkxtyz-6eEaPoerQWhWkrhcHhG2VY-ZmMf8acy5WZq49KxlBrWljO3jXQ60h8eeQOwFczyC7iGmtBhtuTHVk/s1600/DSCF8110.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">18th century Culzean Castle, former home of Marquess of Ailsa, the chief of Clan Kennedy</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">All a million
miles from politics, and each place offering fáilte<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftn5" name="_ftnref5" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn5;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">[5]</span></span></span></span></a> gu Alba.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Public engagement</span></u></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In the everyday world, the rational manner in which
Scotland’s people have conducted the debate has been impressively constructive.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I recall the robust debate among the politicians in the
UK in the lead-up to the UK joining the European Economic Community, the EEC or
Common Market, on 1 January 1973.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>This
was intensified before the first-ever UK-wide referendum on any issue, and
which took place in June 1975.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was about
whether or not to stay in the EEC.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>Both
the Labour and Conservative parties were split internally.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>But the lively and healthy quality of debate
ensured that the issues were teased out fully.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The same thing has been happening in Scotland this year, and rationally so.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">As one London correspondent<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftn6" name="_ftnref6" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn6;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">[6]</span></span></span></span></a> has put it</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 36.0pt;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">“The 95% of sane normal
voters on both sides have shown a level of maturity tolerance and knowledge
much higher than the politicians they’re being led by.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It has forced the UK to think about the
things it takes for granted and it has made everyone aware of what Scotland has
and always will contribute to the world...”</span></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 36.0pt;">
<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Commenting on the TV debate between Alistair Darling and Alex Salmond, a leading journalist in Belfast </span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftn6" name="_ftnref6" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn6;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">[7]</span></span></span></span></a></span> put it this way:-</span><br />
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftn1" name="_ftnref1" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn1;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"></span></span></span></span></a><br /></span></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">“The thing that struck
home immediately is the difference between Scottish attitudes and our own, even
when it was a nationalist debating the border with a unionist....There were no
rows over what flag would be flown and no mention of battles long ago...The
debate wasn’t pitched in terms of treachery or loyalty...It is hard to imagine
constitutional change being discussed so reasonably here....It was a fact-based
discussion, not an emotional rant...We could learn from them.”</span></i></div>
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<br /></div>
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</div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><u>Yes or No</u></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Professor Tom Devine, a man described as “as close to a
national bard as the nation has” justifies his recently reached decision to
vote yes<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftn7" name="_ftnref7" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn7;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">[8]</span></span></span></span></a> as based on “a clear
national narrative underpinned by objective and rigorous academic research...a
resilient economic system and reserves of power (oil and wind)....”</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">On the other side of the debate, some foreigners have
eschewed timorousness and voiced their opinion. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Tony Abbott, the Prime Minister of Australia,
is quoted as saying that Scottish independence would be a victory for the
enemies of freedom and justice...while an independent Scotland would make
little positive impact on the world stage.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The Times newspaper (whose proprietor also happens to be Australian)
endorses Mr Abbott’s stance that Scottish independence would be a blow to
Western liberal democracy<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftn8" name="_ftnref8" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn8;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">[9]</span></span></span></span></a>.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">If the result of the referendum reflects the opinion
polls and the outcome is close, the margin of victory will be small with a large
consequent minority.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>If only for that
reason, the real debate about Scotland’s dependence or sovereignty will begin
on and after 19 September.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The closer
the outcome, whichever side of the argument prevails, the more intense will be the subsequent talks.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Whatever choice the people make, the world will not end.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Scotland will still be Scotland the brave.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">It will continue to have a border with England and remain
close neighbours of Wales Ireland and Norway.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>It will still have heather, single malt whisky, the Edinburgh Festival, Scots
porridge oats, midges, shortbread biscuits, Irn Bru, the Lough Ness monster, Tam
o‘Shanter hats, beautiful islands loughs and mountains, romantic castles, fantastic museums, top universities, and
will still be the home of golf.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">What an exciting time it is to visit, and witness history happening peacefully.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">©Michael
McSorley 2014</span></div>
<div style="mso-element: footnote-list;">
<br clear="all" />
<hr align="left" size="1" width="33%" />
<div id="ftn1" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<div class="MsoFootnoteText">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftnref1" name="_ftn1" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn1;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">[1]</span></span></span></span></a>
Tim Adams Observer 3 Aug 2014 http://www.theguardian.com/politics/2014/aug/02/commonwealth-games-just-about-the-games-not-independence</div>
</div>
<div id="ftn2" style="mso-element: footnote;">
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftnref2" name="_ftn2" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn2;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">[2]</span></span></span></span></a> <a href="http://www.juliefowlis.com/">http://www.juliefowlis.com/</a></div>
</div>
<div id="ftn3" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<div class="MsoFootnoteText">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftnref3" name="_ftn3" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn3;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">[3]</span></span></span></span></a> <a href="http://altan.ie/">http://altan.ie/</a></div>
</div>
<div id="ftn4" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<div class="MsoFootnoteText">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftnref4" name="_ftn4" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn4;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">[4]</span></span></span></span></a> <a href="http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-northern-ireland-28824257">http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-northern-ireland-28824257</a></div>
</div>
<div id="ftn5" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<div class="MsoFootnoteText">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftnref5" name="_ftn5" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn5;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">[5]</span></span></span></span></a>
The Scots Gaelic fada faces back rather than forward (as is written above)</div>
</div>
<div id="ftn6" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<div class="MsoFootnoteText">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftnref6" name="_ftn6" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn6;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">[6]</span></span></span></span></a>
Observer 10 August Bella Bathurst “Salmond and Darling squabble, but the real
conversation is elsewhere.”<br />
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftnref1" name="_ftn1" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn1;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">[7]</span></span></span></span></a> Belfast
Telegraph 28 August 2014 Liam Clarke. “Reasoned calm of Salmond and co a far
cry from our histrionics”</div>
</div>
<div id="ftn7" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<div class="MsoFootnoteText">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftnref7" name="_ftn7" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn7;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">[8]</span></span></span></span></a>
Observer 17 Aug 2014 p 7 “Scotland’s leading historian makes up his mind: it’s
yes to independence.”</div>
</div>
<div id="ftn8" style="mso-element: footnote;">
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftnref8" name="_ftn8" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn8;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">[9]</span></span></span></span></a>
The Times 16 August 2014 p6 “Scots independence a bad idea” Giles Whittell and
p26 (editorial)</div>
</div>
</div>
Michael McSorleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06352593190581090069noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1873197369166122223.post-28519013819162365052014-01-29T08:26:00.001-08:002014-01-29T08:26:33.479-08:00Vacances sans frontières<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><u>Riviera relaxation</u></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">As winter continues, the pull of warmer climes becomes
more and more alluring.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">February’s ability
to lull us towards intoxicating hibernation can easily be distracted by tempting
thoughts of detoxifying holidays in the sun.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>(The epithets are transferrable; swap them around depending on taste).</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">So if you are pining for a respite, let me recommend
somewhere on the borders of gorgeous and beautiful.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This place combines the delights of home-baked
pasta and unique mega-pizzas with French country cuisine. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Just add in a few hanging villages in the sun, some Roman
and even pre-historic archaeology and the border region of Liguria has all the ingredients for a
happy holiday.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In mid-September, my wife and I flew to Nice in
south-eastern France and drove the short journey to its neighbouring Italian
province.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Liguria sits between the
Riviera to the south coast, the Alps behind to the north and France to the
west.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">As autumn was knocking ominously on British and Irish
doors, it was still summertime in Italy, with temperatures every day in the bearable
mid 20’s centigrade.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">And what better
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Mid to late spring or autumn are ideal times
to explore the border region of two pivotal European nations and its fascinating
cultural variety.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Part of the attraction is the region’s accessibility.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The availability of a direct flight to Nice
(from most British and Irish airports) with departures leaving and returning at
times which are at social hours was a compelling factor in our decision.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">There is also something satisfying about sampling
a route and destination airport for the first time.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ_pPnHkywkfWNnXVYRk4KyVEOPeZPYbXmNEZECegC400jU0Kglnb8mKre-b_MB_GZdT_uFpIj9QXBNI0IKbsuHjIJiBBdx5M-uAeHE80ouBcS0Zqi3EkTQ5CwbdUqpr37pEKhCXdALRw/s1600/2013-09-16+16.15.35.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ_pPnHkywkfWNnXVYRk4KyVEOPeZPYbXmNEZECegC400jU0Kglnb8mKre-b_MB_GZdT_uFpIj9QXBNI0IKbsuHjIJiBBdx5M-uAeHE80ouBcS0Zqi3EkTQ5CwbdUqpr37pEKhCXdALRw/s1600/2013-09-16+16.15.35.jpg" height="133" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nice, Quai des Etats-Unis</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Knowing that we would book flights to Nice, I had been
searching without much success for a place to stay somewhere on the French
Riviera for weeks.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>Then, as if it was
meant to be, an article about Liguria appeared one Saturday in The Times<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftn1" name="_ftnref1" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn1;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">[1]</span></span></span></span></a>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Describing a pleasant hike in the nearby
mountains, the author concluded </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 36.0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 36.0pt;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">“In 40 minutes of
walking, we meet not a soul.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>That’s the
thing about Liguria – you’re never far away from the sea, but you’re always a
long way from other tourists.”</span></i><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></u></div>
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<u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Pied </span></u><a href="http://www.french-linguistics.co.uk/dictionary/a.html" target="_top"><span style="color: windowtext; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">à</span></a><u><span style="font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span></u><u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Terre</span></u></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Curiosity antennae aroused, I looked for a place to stay
in Italy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">To my pleasant surprise and in
contrast to my earlier searches for a place to stay</span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> in France, every one
of the first four Ligurian options I listed were available on the chosen dates.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">To get the best of both worlds – they being France and
Italy - we selected a rural house located between the area’s two main
towns.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>Menton is the border French town,
and Ventigmilia lies about 3 or 4 miles away in Italy.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Our choice of accommodation turned out to be part of a
larger 250 year old house in the intriguingly-named small village of Mortola Inferiore.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">With no attempt at modesty, the brochure
proclaimed it as<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> </i><span style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">a</span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> “village house in the
most prestigious site of the Ligurian Riviera.<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftn2" name="_ftnref2" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn2;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">[2]</span></b></span></span></span></a>”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></i> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Home for us for two weeks, so it had to
be good.</span></div>
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<u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Inferiore complex</span></u></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Before reaching Mortola in our hired Peugeot 207, we had
driven through a village just inside the Italian border whose first name echoes
that of the royal family of nearby Monaco, Grimaldi Inferiore.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Then we saw a signpost for Grimaldi Superiore
pointing towards the higher ground to the rear.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I soon realised that split villages can be named thus depending on
altitude, as the Superiore part of our Mortola also seemed to occupy the upper
slopes.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Our accommodation was not a bit inferior.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span><br />
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGTJsZCohutMiESp5uMGtrIvoZNfWn6pmZrK8mUa541ZcZN7-WWpV3pC5-5niCA06OXqImIdY47bPRo1f9bB13WdCWglZanCyuLzugFokTq40BVEuly4RN40pBCzuDGgjYyjYvmFM4-dU/s1600/2013-09-18+18.51.35.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGTJsZCohutMiESp5uMGtrIvoZNfWn6pmZrK8mUa541ZcZN7-WWpV3pC5-5niCA06OXqImIdY47bPRo1f9bB13WdCWglZanCyuLzugFokTq40BVEuly4RN40pBCzuDGgjYyjYvmFM4-dU/s1600/2013-09-18+18.51.35.jpg" height="133" width="200" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">It was a modernised flat or apartment,
complete with a very well equipped kitchen, an extensive library, outdoor
dining area, WIFI, a new internet radio and even a large flat screen TV.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The building commanded a panoramic view over
a peninsula landscaped with gardens.</span></div>
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<u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></u></div>
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<u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></u></div>
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<u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></u></div>
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<u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Giardini Botanici Hanbury</span></u></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The Hanbury Botanic Gardens occupy all of the Capo Mortola.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>It is one of the area’s main attractions.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A few steps across the road and we’re there.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>Sir Thomas Hanbury purchased the land
together with the Palazzo Orengo in late Victorian times with a fortune
accumulated in China from trading in silk, cotton, tea and property.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The 11<sup>th</sup> century Palazzo had been
erected on the site of a Roman villa.<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit0vr5sGeCjBKiw4wnN0MichpG_YHRLjA4l3XJ3XzdtWNhSsGvDNcuxp4-hPw-weXKXpEbLwj-rBPjb1KIt1ryZ433h3jdZeqTjMIV5Wi7XR9UefTpE1S7VhuRqcpsCPos8NIS0ZbbpJw/s1600/2013+09+17+Hanbury+Gardens.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit0vr5sGeCjBKiw4wnN0MichpG_YHRLjA4l3XJ3XzdtWNhSsGvDNcuxp4-hPw-weXKXpEbLwj-rBPjb1KIt1ryZ433h3jdZeqTjMIV5Wi7XR9UefTpE1S7VhuRqcpsCPos8NIS0ZbbpJw/s1600/2013+09+17+Hanbury+Gardens.jpg" height="200" width="133" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Palazzo Orengo</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Plants from all over the world appear to thrive in the
shelter of the Ligurian Alps and the proximity of the sea – helped by a
temperate Mediterranean climate.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">It’s a
bit like the exotic palm-house conservatories in Belfast’s Botanic Gardens,
except for the fact that the Mortola site is all outdoors – all 45 acres of it.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn2Vu6n1d5RblHXVqaE94EeGNgsFLMCwK0iSwH_rL_o52uOT6sPHzY0kVk_R1LEsOZCjNL5_H0v9XsExiwyCy_DWrXNOQ_-77xHt1vlpKP_Z9TBof_JGapUU9aDXpMV4OHbwfeRHiOnmo/s1600/2013-09-13+11.50.01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn2Vu6n1d5RblHXVqaE94EeGNgsFLMCwK0iSwH_rL_o52uOT6sPHzY0kVk_R1LEsOZCjNL5_H0v9XsExiwyCy_DWrXNOQ_-77xHt1vlpKP_Z9TBof_JGapUU9aDXpMV4OHbwfeRHiOnmo/s1600/2013-09-13+11.50.01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn2Vu6n1d5RblHXVqaE94EeGNgsFLMCwK0iSwH_rL_o52uOT6sPHzY0kVk_R1LEsOZCjNL5_H0v9XsExiwyCy_DWrXNOQ_-77xHt1vlpKP_Z9TBof_JGapUU9aDXpMV4OHbwfeRHiOnmo/s1600/2013-09-13+11.50.01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn2Vu6n1d5RblHXVqaE94EeGNgsFLMCwK0iSwH_rL_o52uOT6sPHzY0kVk_R1LEsOZCjNL5_H0v9XsExiwyCy_DWrXNOQ_-77xHt1vlpKP_Z9TBof_JGapUU9aDXpMV4OHbwfeRHiOnmo/s1600/2013-09-13+11.50.01.jpg" height="200" width="133" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">If prizes were ever to be awarded for the best labelling
of plants, Hanbury Gardens would win hands down.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Today the Gardens are managed by the
University of Genoa and they host concerts.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>A minor inconvenience of visiting in late September was that these
events had completed their season just prior to our arrival.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I was particularly impressed by the integration of Roman
occupation.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The exterior walls of the
Palazzo exhibit a range of Roman sculpted figures in a remarkable state of
preservation.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Another feature is the
Roman road which traverses the site.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The
Via Julia Augusta was completed in 12BC connecting what is now Aix en Provence
in France to Derthona in Piedmont, Italy.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A plaque records verses of Dante
and lists famous people who have passed by.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCbIDb5H9MDjiO6e5gwljL1ccbL6p0XVOIIwwH-JG5jnycM-a-tDtaRmr89mGQwZ58SjZ4lwZshtZBcqV0TcBc8lEZFd6USYQGvo0jaQr_G-fY5kpDNnQjH-UtjCZHLgc865k4tZSLzSA/s1600/2013-09-13+12.58.29.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCbIDb5H9MDjiO6e5gwljL1ccbL6p0XVOIIwwH-JG5jnycM-a-tDtaRmr89mGQwZ58SjZ4lwZshtZBcqV0TcBc8lEZFd6USYQGvo0jaQr_G-fY5kpDNnQjH-UtjCZHLgc865k4tZSLzSA/s1600/2013-09-13+12.58.29.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">These include Catherine of Siena, Dante himself, Machiavelli, a couple of Popes, and Napoleon.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>Remind me to ask someone to Photoshop my name
onto the plaque.</span></div>
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<u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></u></div>
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<u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Days out - driving</span></u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">What really lured us to the Italian Riviera was the
prospect of exploring the medieval mountain villages and countryside in the
Ligurian Alps.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">According to local
tourist office literature, the Ligurian Alps “look like miniature Dolomites
with their steep walls...”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>Having
experienced exhilarating hill-walking and skiing with a brilliant provider<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftn3" name="_ftnref3" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn3;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">[3]</span></span></span></span></a> in the real Dolomites
close to Italy’s border with Austria, the geological similarities are
recognisable.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The distances from Ventigmilia to these mountain villages
may be short (not much more than 10 miles), but the accessibility by car
requires the driver’s utmost attention.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Winding narrow roads are a challenge for any competent traveller, driver
or cyclist.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>Because of this, the safe
arrival at destinations feels like a minor achievement.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Our first drive was up the aptly named Nervia valley. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The Times made it sound so appealing, how
could we resist:</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">“Moments from Ventigmilia
are lush steep mountain valleys with homely hilltop villages, stunning sea
views and babbling brooks hidden in the hinterland.”</span></i><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"></span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwDYZQ86emupwSkcpxNQ1C-ZYEMk5BkCKa5oDFFjvo6ruVVR-B-8rRhVvahQOI04P-Yyfbk9yPP5q8AWfnDbmkIi9k-CpK1AkvNYjv4NvsxRLzMTP9vOspFVxly6ryTPIFXMb1_a4H-Nk/s1600/2013-09-19+13.10.00.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwDYZQ86emupwSkcpxNQ1C-ZYEMk5BkCKa5oDFFjvo6ruVVR-B-8rRhVvahQOI04P-Yyfbk9yPP5q8AWfnDbmkIi9k-CpK1AkvNYjv4NvsxRLzMTP9vOspFVxly6ryTPIFXMb1_a4H-Nk/s1600/2013-09-19+13.10.00.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Overlooking the Nervia valley</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">It was their correspondent<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftn4" name="_ftnref4" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn4;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">[4]</span></span></span></span></a> who gave us the idea to
visit the medieval village of Dolceaqua.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>As she put it</span></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">“its single-arched 15<sup>th</sup>
century bridge looks like the baby brother of the more famous one in Mostar in
Herzegovina.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The bridge leads across the
river to the vast ruins of an ancient castle that was painted by Monet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He was one of the thousands of tourists in
the 19<sup>th</sup> century...They dubbed these hilltop settlements rock
villages as they were hewn out of the mountainside and some rooms are virtually
caves.”</span></i><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXTKnWuXa9XFJ-pTnMJV0AHSlH2TDxqmJ20Lxioq_RiXOEEJbUycWxUhjKinQOR2V-C0UVbtoqEx9lINjDAQoQ9kxvVGQDVlAXXtR-u7H-3Oela1yvetnmYABvPgRJA0qH6dQt6VHTi_c/s1600/2013-09-19+15.22.07.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXTKnWuXa9XFJ-pTnMJV0AHSlH2TDxqmJ20Lxioq_RiXOEEJbUycWxUhjKinQOR2V-C0UVbtoqEx9lINjDAQoQ9kxvVGQDVlAXXtR-u7H-3Oela1yvetnmYABvPgRJA0qH6dQt6VHTi_c/s1600/2013-09-19+15.22.07.jpg" height="133" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dolceaqua in September 2013</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI4yX-QvFJDk97lN6tLd0iEyf7BsiSmPcreGjIZ4KPkKH4cG-1ul62FZzlJX7TFF5X3-IpUzdneuANP7T3ajyCU8tyHzB_Yib9dlymiZ7FoQreLUY_XvUXbjepAXrbxJVLQkRq3h7G5NI/s1600/Dolceacqua__1884Monet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI4yX-QvFJDk97lN6tLd0iEyf7BsiSmPcreGjIZ4KPkKH4cG-1ul62FZzlJX7TFF5X3-IpUzdneuANP7T3ajyCU8tyHzB_Yib9dlymiZ7FoQreLUY_XvUXbjepAXrbxJVLQkRq3h7G5NI/s1600/Dolceacqua__1884Monet.jpg" height="158" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of Monet's Dolceaqua pictures</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXTKnWuXa9XFJ-pTnMJV0AHSlH2TDxqmJ20Lxioq_RiXOEEJbUycWxUhjKinQOR2V-C0UVbtoqEx9lINjDAQoQ9kxvVGQDVlAXXtR-u7H-3Oela1yvetnmYABvPgRJA0qH6dQt6VHTi_c/s1600/2013-09-19+15.22.07.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXTKnWuXa9XFJ-pTnMJV0AHSlH2TDxqmJ20Lxioq_RiXOEEJbUycWxUhjKinQOR2V-C0UVbtoqEx9lINjDAQoQ9kxvVGQDVlAXXtR-u7H-3Oela1yvetnmYABvPgRJA0qH6dQt6VHTi_c/s1600/2013-09-19+15.22.07.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Leaving Sweet Water, we tempted fate once more and ventured
along the narrow winding road to the neighbouring village of Apricale.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVrEViGPJNg_t5MU99vq2MLkLg2Dw2w7e7frR-5AU-0_N5Xg2l6VN5qZX3lm_12QOSqXjyt_K9jbYIj_HenxFSWPwjPVH8wAoaRm0u1UTUn_4fGBqy5iA-OtpcDT2rxog5SKFqfwjOFRo/s1600/Apricale2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVrEViGPJNg_t5MU99vq2MLkLg2Dw2w7e7frR-5AU-0_N5Xg2l6VN5qZX3lm_12QOSqXjyt_K9jbYIj_HenxFSWPwjPVH8wAoaRm0u1UTUn_4fGBqy5iA-OtpcDT2rxog5SKFqfwjOFRo/s1600/Apricale2.JPG" height="212" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Apricale streets and art</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFPdab9Z6kcqo7T3M2kMdhneUgS28o5xb4dHQNAFR45k1AcEfnX2YTwAEWvD9ickC2Oo8VAGuwTkOLnJoZC6FJSoGquPKGEgqTszY4Yz3x5XnuYyHrZt0YIfsEARnD4jCzWPB_Jg8Z9Yk/s1600/Apricale1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFPdab9Z6kcqo7T3M2kMdhneUgS28o5xb4dHQNAFR45k1AcEfnX2YTwAEWvD9ickC2Oo8VAGuwTkOLnJoZC6FJSoGquPKGEgqTszY4Yz3x5XnuYyHrZt0YIfsEARnD4jCzWPB_Jg8Z9Yk/s1600/Apricale1.jpg" height="212" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Apricale, hanging village</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The Times’s scribe had informed me </span></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">“Many villages in
Liguria’s beautiful mountain valleys were virtually abandoned as people moved
to the coast where jobs schools and hospitals made life easier.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But more recently better roads have tempted
them back home and towns such as Apricale have begun to open up to
tourism.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Its houses tumble down the
hillside and one enterprising family has been buying rooms across the village
to open an albergo diffuso (a hotel with rooms scattered across the locality<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftn5" name="_ftnref5" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn5;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">[5]</span></b></span></span></span></a>)....
Many of the houses are still abandoned and there is a wonderful old-world
atmosphere...”</span></i><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">As a local tourist brochure explained, </span></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">“to enter Apricale (the
village of the sun) which is decorated with original murals by contemporary
artists, one passes steep lanes, covered alleyways and stone archivolts before
reaching the main square. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Here the scene
is quite stunning: sweeping stone arches, a pre-Renaissance drinking trough
with fountain, painted loggias and palazzo, and the imposing buttresses of the
castle.”</span></i><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">So impressive was the experience that we had to see more.
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>Although it looks quite close to
Apricale on the map, Perinaldo was one stop too far as I did not relish any
more dicing with tortuous bends on that day.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Procrastinate.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Two days later we take a different route out of
Ventimiglia.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The repeat of the challenge
to arrive unscathed in these mountain villages makes it seem all the more of a
privilege to see them.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Perinaldo’s fame arises from the fact that it is the
birthplace of Louis XIV’s astronomer Giovanni Domenico Cassini, the first of
four generations of astronomers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">We
learned that (over two hundred years ago) Cassini identified four of Saturn’s
moons and the division of its rings, that he calculated the distance between
the earth and its nearest planets, and that he measured the time taken for Mars
Venus and Jupiter to complete one rotation – to mention just some of his
achievements.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">An observatory is housed
in the former Franciscan convent of San Sebastiano.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">And as in Apricale, art adorns walls and
covered alleyways, appropriately in Perinaldo on the theme of astronomy.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I’m tempted to describe Perinaldo’s atmosphere as virtually
celestial.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">At this point, I have an admission to make.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On our return trip, we got a bit lost.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>We thought we would try to return via the
village of Seborga, allegedly an independent principality and which has its own
coinage.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>Instead we found ourselves in
the small hamlet of San Romolo.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This was
a fortuitous discovery as it was time for lunch and we happened on the ideal
hideaway, basking in the afternoon sun.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In a country where cooking standards seem always to be
high, we had one of the best pasta lunches ever.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I refer to the family-owned <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Ristoranti della Ava. </i><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Apart from being impressed by the wonderful
food, the décor reminded me of the importance of sport to this area.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The Milan-San Remo bicycle race (won twice by
Ireland’s Sean Kelly) is one of its many international events.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The restaurant’s walls are bedecked with countless metal mementoes
and sepia-tinged old photographs of rally driving and racing motor bikes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The place is a veritable shrine to all varieties
of sport on wheels.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>Now I know what a
hidden gem is.</span></div>
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<u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Days out – by train</span></u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I am grateful to my wife for discovering a nugget buried
in the corner of a small tourist brochure, namely:-</span></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">“the spectacular Val
Roja railway line that links Ventimiglia to Limone.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It offers a landscape that winds attractively
through a succession of meadows, pine forests gorges and rivers that frame the
enchanting villages set among the mountains.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The line was inaugurated in 1928, was almost destroyed during the war
and the rebuilt 40 years later.”</span></i><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Le Train des Merveilles, with 81 tunnels and over 400
bridges, stops at what used to be the Italian village of Tenda in the Valle
delle Meraviglie. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is now the French
village of Tendé.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>I availed of the
opportunity to practice my French in conversation with a cafe owner in the
village square.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He told me that in 1947
the area voted to become part of France rather than Italy.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I was particularly interested to ask him about a note
which I had read that <span class="usercontent">the locals speak Tendasque.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span class="usercontent">He confirmed that this is indeed the case, a
patois derived from Italian and the dialect of Piedmontese.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span class="usercontent">Being a Parisian, however, he was unable to
unable to oblige my curiosity further.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Tendé is a perfect place for a warm afternoon’s ramble –
winding narrow streets with no traffic, leading up to an imposing Church and
graveyard, past old buildings that seems centuries old but not carved out of
rock like the medieval ones of previous days out.<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXgNH3dbdzVtxI6ahSTRjUuEjjkcA5mvmi2jraNRIeNbhLA3vKzNJR_lkYEYfI0cn5guwt4H76pyvo5MjhvrVY7uwGGQ8aazzcjCXJKGCoQbDQcyIBExPlVpU5I1UBFwipq9X_GQODbE8/s1600/2013+09+25+Tend%C3%A9,+France.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXgNH3dbdzVtxI6ahSTRjUuEjjkcA5mvmi2jraNRIeNbhLA3vKzNJR_lkYEYfI0cn5guwt4H76pyvo5MjhvrVY7uwGGQ8aazzcjCXJKGCoQbDQcyIBExPlVpU5I1UBFwipq9X_GQODbE8/s1600/2013+09+25+Tend%C3%A9,+France.jpg" height="133" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tendé</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In a couple of places I observe signs on the same theme (a
clue perhaps to the change of national identity) reminding us of World War
2.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">One noted a person’s name with the chilling
addition “fusillé par les Allemands” and a date.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">History, however violent, and cultural influences such as
linguistics can be every bit as interesting for discerning visitors as an
area’s food, drink and scenery.</span></div>
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<u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Ventimiglia</span></u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A benefit of taking the train was the discovery of
Ventimiglia’s impressive and inviting railway station.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This pretty town has a lot going for it,
apart from the old town with its imposing walls not to mention its location on
the Italian Riviera and at the foot of the Ligurian Alps.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Let me highlight two other unmissable aspects.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">One is archaeological wonders, the other is
culinary excellence.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">On the edge of Ventimiglia there is an unheralded Roman
theatre – like a small version of Greece’s Epidaurus.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>Artefacts from the site are on display in the
town’s archaeological museum. This is the Forte della'Annunziata, which overlooks the ancient Roman mule track leading to the town’s attractive Calendre
sandy beach.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Before we travelled to Ventimiglia, I had speculated
about its meaning, wondering what the 20,000 could be – leagues under the sea, kilometric distance to the south pole, or what?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">When I read one of the local tourist brochures my idle thoughts were
completely disabused.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Ventimiglia is in
fact a corruption of the Latin term Albintimilium, Alb meaning town, becoming
capital city of the Ligurian Intermeli.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Exhibits much more ancient than Roman, dating from
35,000 to 10,000 years ago, are housed in the town’s Balzi Rossi Museum.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The evidence of cave dwellers and the site,
near Grimaldi village, has yielded items including small female statues and
stone utensils belonging to the Cro-Magnon race.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Awe is the only sentiment.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Speaking about food is, in comparison, a much more
mundane topic, but nevertheless important to visitors.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>I have eaten many fantastic pizzas in
different parts of Italy, but have never seen anything like those served in the lively Le
Due Palme in<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Ventimiglia.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">A place clearly popular with locals - always a good sign. <table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7wv9nR43suGbu5L1AAwTJrjmOB-QZhT90e8MQ1TxQfiS15Mf1zsCIvRHel8_DcOXwmgOQ7vFFKuUE4i98Pva1fx361JEc1SVizwr_3FDP38rjUWjRbnwKpeffBh-kotaz-l9ZPDgubL0/s1600/2013-09-21+22.10.44-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7wv9nR43suGbu5L1AAwTJrjmOB-QZhT90e8MQ1TxQfiS15Mf1zsCIvRHel8_DcOXwmgOQ7vFFKuUE4i98Pva1fx361JEc1SVizwr_3FDP38rjUWjRbnwKpeffBh-kotaz-l9ZPDgubL0/s1600/2013-09-21+22.10.44-2.jpg" height="133" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le Due Palme</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">My daughter (on a 3-day visit from her home in
Germany) discovered it from internet reviews.<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftn6" name="_ftnref6" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn6;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">[6]</span></span></span></span></a></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">One evening as my party of three ate conventionally-shaped
pizzas, which were gorgeous, we noticed a family group of perhaps 16 people
being served enormous rectangular pizzas, fetchingly placed on small raised
stands on their dining table.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Each of
their four or five pizzas must have measured over a metre in length and about
half a metre wide.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A artful combination of
engineering skill and culinary craftsmanship. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Our favourite coffee shop was the convivial Caffee Paris
close to Ventimiglia’s covered market.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>So
impressed were we with the town and its locality that, on our return we set out
a list of our “useful tips” for future guests to the kind owner of our house in
Salita della Croce, Mortola.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This table
was the result.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<table border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="MsoTableLightListAccent3" style="border-collapse: collapse; border: none; mso-border-alt: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; mso-border-themecolor: accent3; mso-padding-alt: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-yfti-tbllook: 1568;">
<tbody>
<tr style="mso-yfti-firstrow: yes; mso-yfti-irow: -1;">
<td style="background: #9BBB59; border-bottom: none; border-left: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; border-right: none; border-top: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; mso-background-themecolor: accent3; mso-border-left-themecolor: accent3; mso-border-top-themecolor: accent3; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt;" valign="top"><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-yfti-cnfc: 1;">
<b><span lang="EN-US" style="color: white; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: EN-US; mso-themecolor: background1;">ITEM</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-yfti-cnfc: 1;">
<br /></div>
</td>
<td style="background: #9BBB59; border-bottom: none; border-left: none; border-right: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; border-top: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; mso-background-themecolor: accent3; mso-border-right-themecolor: accent3; mso-border-top-themecolor: accent3; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt;" valign="top"><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-yfti-cnfc: 1;">
<b><span lang="EN-US" style="color: white; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: EN-US; mso-themecolor: background1;">VENUE</span></b></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 0;">
<td style="border-left: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; border: none; mso-border-left-themecolor: accent3; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt;" valign="top"><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: EN-US;">Best close beach</span></b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: EN-US;">.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
</td>
<td style="border-right: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; border: none; mso-border-right-themecolor: accent3; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt;" valign="top"><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: EN-US;">Calendre</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: EN-US;">, down a mule path behind
the archaeological museum on the scenic road into Ventimiglia.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sandy beach.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 1;">
<td style="border-left: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; border: none; mso-border-left-themecolor: accent3; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt;" valign="top"><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: EN-US;">Best mid-morning coffee shop</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
</td>
<td style="border-right: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; border: none; mso-border-right-themecolor: accent3; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt;" valign="top"><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: EN-US;">Caffee Paris</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: EN-US;">, on Via della Republica,
Ventimiglia, adjacent to the covered market.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Gorgeous cappuccino and chocolate croissants.</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 2;">
<td style="border-left: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; border: none; mso-border-left-themecolor: accent3; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt;" valign="top"><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: EN-US;">Best pizzeria</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
</td>
<td style="border-right: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; border: none; mso-border-right-themecolor: accent3; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt;" valign="top"><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="IT" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: IT; mso-bidi-language: EN-US;">Le Due
Palme</span></i><span lang="IT" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: IT; mso-bidi-language: EN-US;">, junction of Via Roma &
Via Giovanni XXIII, Ventimiglia.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: EN-US;">Try the enormous rectangular big family pizzas.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 3;">
<td style="border-left: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; border: none; mso-border-left-themecolor: accent3; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt;" valign="top"><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: EN-US;">Best evening restaurant</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
</td>
<td style="border-right: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; border: none; mso-border-right-themecolor: accent3; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt;" valign="top"><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: EN-US;">Marco Polo</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: EN-US;">, on one of the shore-front
passegiatas, Ventimiglia</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 4;">
<td style="border-left: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; border: none; mso-border-left-themecolor: accent3; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt;" valign="top"><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: EN-US;">Quality lunch</span></b></div>
</td>
<td style="border-right: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; border: none; mso-border-right-themecolor: accent3; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt;" valign="top"><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: EN-US;">Villa Eva</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: EN-US;">, the hotel in front of
Latte village’s stony beach.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 5;">
<td style="border-left: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; border: none; mso-border-left-themecolor: accent3; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt;" valign="top"><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: EN-US;">Travel tip</span></b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: EN-US;"></span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-right: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; border: none; mso-border-right-themecolor: accent3; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt;" valign="top"><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: EN-US;">Best way to get to Nice/Cannes etc – drive to
& park at <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Menton Garavan train
station</i>, & travel by train.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Concession fares for senior citizens.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 6;">
<td style="border-left: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; border: none; mso-border-left-themecolor: accent3; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt;" valign="top"><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: EN-US;">Valleys to drive to</span></b></div>
</td>
<td style="border-right: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; border: none; mso-border-right-themecolor: accent3; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt;" valign="top"><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: EN-US;">The fabulous medieval villages of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Dolceaqua, Rocchetta Nervina, &
Apricale </i>in the Nervia valley; the equally beautiful village of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Perinaldo </i>& hamlet of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">San Romolo</i>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Lunch in <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Ristoranti della Ava</i> (a shrine to motor sport) in San Romolo is
recommended.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
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</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 7; mso-yfti-lastrow: yes;">
<td style="border-bottom: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; border-left: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; border-right: none; border-top: none; mso-border-bottom-themecolor: accent3; mso-border-left-themecolor: accent3; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt;" valign="top"><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: EN-US;">Scenic train journey</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: EN-US;">Hanbury Gardens</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: EN-US;">Evening stroll</span></b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: EN-US;"></span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-bottom-themecolor: accent3; mso-border-right-themecolor: accent3; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt;" valign="top"><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: EN-US;">Le train des merveilles</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: EN-US;"> from
Ventimiglia to Cuneo and get off in <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Tendé</i>
to explore the village on foot.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: EN-US;">On your doorstep.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Deserves nomination for best labeled garden
on earth.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: EN-US;">Menton</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: EN-US;"> port and town centre</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Calendre beach, Ventimiglia</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Villa Eva, Latte</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Now a little part of Italy is coming to our shores.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In May its greatest professional cycling
race, il Giro d’Italia with la Grande Partenza (this video clip is inspiring)<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftn7" name="_ftnref7" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn7;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">[7]</span></span></span></span></a> and la Maglia Rosa are
coming to Ireland, north and south.</span></div>
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<span lang="IT" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: IT;">Arrivederci Roma, grazie
Liguria, cin cin Belfast.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">©Michael
McSorley 2014</span></div>
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftnref1" name="_ftn1" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn1;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">[1]</span></span></span></span></a>
The Times Travel 15 June 2013 pp26-7.”In Liguria hospitality comes as freely as
the cool sea breeze.” Rosie Whitehouse</div>
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftnref2" name="_ftn2" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn2;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">[2]</span></span></span></span></a>
www.homeaway.co.uk</div>
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftnref3" name="_ftn3" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn3;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">[3]</span></span></span></span></a>
www.colletts.co.uk</div>
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftnref4" name="_ftn4" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn4;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">[4]</span></span></span></span></a>
Rosie Whitehouse is also author of The Bradt Guide to Liguria</div>
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftnref5" name="_ftn5" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn5;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">[5]</span></span></span></span></a>
www.muntaecara.it</div>
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftnref6" name="_ftn6" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn6;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">[6]</span></span></span></span></a>
Trip Advisor</div>
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1873197369166122223#_ftnref7" name="_ftn7" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn7;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">[7]</span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 8.0pt; line-height: 115%;">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eeBG_htfe_g</span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
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Michael McSorleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06352593190581090069noreply@blogger.com1