Introduction
“Portugal – it’s like
Donegal, only with sunshine.”
I recall this quip from a
work-mate, a description of his favourite golfing destination when I told him
about my impending first trip there back in the 1970’s. And it is indeed accurate, in a couple of
senses.
Just as the Irish county is
bolted onto Northern Ireland providing Ulster’s western seaboard, Portugal reveals itself as an appendage
to the Iberian peninsula, almost in the shadow of its larger Spanish
neighbour. But the most striking
parallel is that both places contain some of Europe’s most beautiful and
inviting beaches.
That was why the Portugal
was this family’s preferred holiday destination when our children were growing
up. One or two trips were made to the
country’s west coast near Setubal; but most of those idyllic holidays were spent on the
south coast, the Algarve.
This year, like a new
awakening, it dawned on us that it had been more than 20 years since visiting
Portugal (apart from one trip to Madeira).
To prove our resolve, an immediate decision was reached to remedy the shameful deficiency. But rather than return to
earlier haunts like Alvor, Portimao and Albufeira, we decided that the priority this time
would be to explore the eastern Algarve.
Travel
From Ireland, there are two
principal options for flying to the region’s airport at Faro. One is Belfast, the other is Dublin. The former entails a very early start to meet
a 6 a.m. flight departure; whereas the latter offers a late afternoon departure
and a mid-morning return flight. For
that reason, as well as the benefit of free transport direct to the front door of the airport
terminal (using the senior citizens bus-pass), we booked Aer Lingus flights from Dublin to Faro.
Accomodation
One attraction for
holiday-makers to Portugal is its range of good quality accommodation in
restored buildings of architectural and historic interest.
Pousadas
describe themselves as small luxury hotels and are spread over the country[i]. Only three are located in the Algarve. One sits in the village of Estoi which is just north of Faro. It was temptingly described by one travel
writer[ii] as
“for style and luxury combined with
Portuguese panache, base yourself in this Neo-Rococo palace with chandeliers,
mirrors, impressive stucco work...”
Evidence which is hard to resist.
Arriving in the early
evening, this was a good choice for us being a short drive from the airport. The late 18th century Pousada do Palacio
de Estoi is a spacious
modernised property in a grand baroque building with Versailles-style gardens. It has 45 double bedrooms, 15 superior rooms
and three suites. Its facilities include
outdoor and indoor swimming pools, spa, and wifi.
Venturing out without
ambling too far beyond the confines of the village, our first discovery was the
Algarve's premier Roman site at Milreu.
This is the location of a Roman villa and a range of associated structures, whose most impressive feature was
a series of beautiful mosaics.
It appears that the affluent Romans built villas with facilities that
are still regarded today as the the essence of luxurious living, such as a spa. Very civilised.
One joy of discovering this area in late spring is the abundance of all sorts of wildflowers. Poppies thrive. Nature is winning.
One joy of discovering this area in late spring is the abundance of all sorts of wildflowers. Poppies thrive. Nature is winning.
Beaches
We visited two of the most
beautiful beaches anybody could wish for, both accessible (almost
tantalisingly) only by boat.
The first was the
aptly-named Ilha Deserta.
We took a boat from the Porta Nova just outside the walls of Faro’s old town, a trip of about 20 minutes. You sail along shimmering channels between sandy islets through the Ria Formosa Natural Park wetlands, emerging onto what appears like the most expansive and deserted sandy beach ever. After an hour or more of relaxing with a good novel and some swimming, there is time for a late lunch in the island’s single restaurant before a return trip back to Faro.
We took a boat from the Porta Nova just outside the walls of Faro’s old town, a trip of about 20 minutes. You sail along shimmering channels between sandy islets through the Ria Formosa Natural Park wetlands, emerging onto what appears like the most expansive and deserted sandy beach ever. After an hour or more of relaxing with a good novel and some swimming, there is time for a late lunch in the island’s single restaurant before a return trip back to Faro.
The other magnificent beach
was thirty kilometres further east, off the pretty town of Tavira. The ferry-boat to the Ilha Tavira leaves from a
spot close to the town centre at the estuary of the Rio Gilao. The distance and time to get there is similar
to that for Faro’s deserted island.
One
difference is that this island is populated with an array of restaurants, all
grouped together and offering a range of prices. Another difference was that there were more
visitors than on the Ilha Deserta. That
said, however, walking for no more than five minutes up the expansive sands and
it was easy to find privacy away from the madding crowd. Gorgeous sand and crystal clear water once
more. Bliss.
Faro,
the old town
A couple of years ago we
spent a week discovering Malaga, through which most tourists pass through from
the airport and head to the costas. That
trip was a revelation, partly because Malaga is a fascinating city with many cultural assets and one that is not dominated
by tourism. In such resorts, one feels more like a local than a visitor. The same applies to Faro.
We travelled from Estoi into Faro on the local modern bus, offering
the opportunity to gaze at the verdant countryside and its fertile fields
displaying a wide range of horticultural produce including olive groves, orange
trees, and grapevines. The 8 kilometre
journey took less than half an hour.
One of the most eye-catching
sights of Faro is storks and their nests.
These tall skinny-legged birds build the most enormous nests sited
precariously on top of some of the city’s most prominent buildings.
 |
| Storks' nests (4) on Arco da Vila |
I observed as tourists risked getting knocked
down attempting to get the impossible photo of these elegant creatures landing
and taking off. What a tribute to Faro’s
green credentials and its citizens that they allow nature to co-exist rather
than, as might happen elsewhere, relocate the nests.
Entering the old town at the
19th century Arco da Vila gateway and its bell tower adorned with
storks nests, we visited the majestic Santa Maria Church, Faro Cathedral. This is the centrepiece of the historic
quarter. The Cathedral accommodates eleven or more chapels,
replete with enough religious art and sculptures to keep a saintly person going
for at least a lifetime. And what a view from above.
 |
| View over Faro from the Cathedral |
Outside the old town, we visited another large church, the Igreja do Carmo, again full of elaborately decorated altars, a place for quiet reflection. Its chief draw for visitors, however, was the almost ghoulish Capela dos Ossos, or Bones Chapel.
Apparently, to accommodate
an extension to the mother church, the skeletons of many monks were disinterred
from the adjacent cemetery and to this day their skulls and bones form the neat
interior of this chapel.
This being a holiday, more earthly pleasures merit space. While waiting for our return bus to Estoi, we stopped at a cafe across the street from central station for
coffee and cakes. I ordered a triple
pancake smothered in cream, ice cream, strawberries all covered in a Chantilly and chocolate sauce.
A mid afternoon snack like this combined with
pleasant sunshine creates quite a soporific effect. I suspect this is why I slept most the way back to the Pousada.
Tavira
Before setting out on this
visit to the Algarve, a friend at home had recommended a visit to Tavira as the
most pleasant place to visit, unspoilt by mass tourism. It lies
about 30 kilometres east of Faro, an easy drive for us from Estoi.
 |
| The Ilha Tavira ferry |
Apart from the beach on the Ilha Tavira, the
town’s riverfront was recommended by our guidebook[iii] as the best place for a
wander. It leads up to the town’s
central square, the Praca da Republica, where we were met by the magnificent
strains of the best busking jazz band I have ever heard. Not unlike the Buena Vista Social Club in
tone and quality.
Conclusion
When we visited in mid-May, apart from some cloud on the first two days, the weather was mostly very pleasant with temperatures in the low 20's C. Sea temperatures were perfectly acceptable for swimming.
All in all, our next visit to Portugal will not take twenty years to organise.
Conclusion
When we visited in mid-May, apart from some cloud on the first two days, the weather was mostly very pleasant with temperatures in the low 20's C. Sea temperatures were perfectly acceptable for swimming.
All in all, our next visit to Portugal will not take twenty years to organise.
©Michael McSorley 2016
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