Travel: 2021

Introduction

Beautiful weather, gorgeous locations and good company ensured that this summer's holiday was just about perfect.

Rather than trying to second-guess the ever-changing machinations of Government travel policy, we decided in February to travel from Belfast by ferry and spend early July in Scotland's Western Highlands. Argyll and Bute to be precise. No airport security, no vaccine passports, no quarantining, no complications - hopefully.

Week one was a family reunion, five couples plus grandchildren. We stayed in a well-equipped 13-bedroom house at Ormidale near Tighnabruaich on the Cowal peninsula (1). To borrow the local parlance, this was a clan gathering, our first since January 2019. The purpose was to celebrate a number of birthdays and anniversaries ending in zero and a new grand-daughter soon to reach 2 years old.

Week two (minus offspring families) was based in a "big wee hoose" in Inveraray (2).

The late-winter gamble paid off as lady luck shone brightly to provide ideal conditions for enjoying the outdoors. My luggage included two bikes.

The unanimous decision to steer clear of foreign resorts again this summer was endorsed by loch to glen sunshine closer to home.

To get into the holiday spirit, we spent our first full day on the southern tip of the peninsula at Kilbride Bay beach (3). Also known as Ostel Bay, this "jewel in the crown of Argyll's secret coast" with its southerly aspect out to the Isle of Arran is where the the Kyles of Bute intersect with Loch Fyne.

Two of our group cycled from our Ormidale base along the impressively smooth single-track and lightly-trafficked roads to get there. Ascents and descents galore.

Places of interest

Allow me to present a few examples of other beauty spots that we visited.

● Lachlans Castle

Perched on the north-eastern shore of the glass-like and tranquil Loch Fyne, this 15th century monument (4) marks the seat of Clan McLachlan, one of Scoland's best known family names. A plaque reminds visitors that the clan is descended from Lachlan Mór who migrated from Ireland to Scotland in the 11th century.

Like the McSorley surname, it derives from the vikings, Lachlan being the Scots and Irish Gaelic for a Dane.

The nearby medieval Kilmorie Chapel contains the graves of an array of Maclachlan clan chiefs. Lachlan Maclachlan of Maclachlan at al underlines a continuation of the line to the nth degree. Much of the tantalising path around the shore to the Castle is across a special boardwalk, something like our Cuilcagh walkway in County Fermanagh, only shorter. Well worth a visit.

● Bute

No visit to Scotland is complete without an island trip. Fortunately for us, the ferry across the Firth of Clyde to our nearest candidate, the Isle of Bute, was located next to Colintraive a short distance from our Tighnabruaich house. Having recently passed on a tweed coat labelled "Little Beaut" made on Bute and purchased by my mother for our eldest daughter, this heirloom promoted the trip to obligatory.

The island's capital, Rothesay, is a short drive south of the entry point of Rhubodach. I'd read that Rothesay has been a traditional destination for Glasgwegians going back to Victorian times. This year, perhaps aided by pandemic limitations, the town had a busy vibe with restaurants and ice-cream shops doing a roaring trade.

Rothesay features in a recent Times article (5) listing it as one of 20 of "the UK's finest spa towns." Its attraction began as a popular 19th century resort for workers from Glasgow who came to swim in the Clyde estuary.

On which point, my son related to me Billy Connolly's story that the reason for Rothesay's palm trees was to convince urban Scottish visitors that they were visiting the most exotic of climes and could be in a Caribbean resort. Why argue with a good yarn, even shorn of the expletives.

One of its landmark buildings is a Victorian "Gentlemens Public Lavatory." It is like a museum piece of best quality design, especially internally with decorative ceramic tiles. Unsurprisingly it has won accolodes for architectural preservation.

Beyond the capital, we spent a lovely day admiring the island's scenery and beautiful beaches.

● Ben More Botanic Garden

This imposing 120 acre park lies at the gateway to Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park. The first thing that grabbed my attention was the avenue of giant Californian redwoods. As we wandered our way through a myriad of paths, we entered a Japanese garden, we saw the most colourful displays of flowering summer trees and all sorts of ferns. We breathed in natural fragrences including sweet yellow jasmimum.

Refreshments in the well-stocked cafe provided a rewarding end-of-visit treat.

● Lochgoilhead

Another beautiful walk, signed as a pilgrims route and part of the 15 mile Cowal Way between Portavadie and Inveruglas, it links Loch Fyne to Loch Lomond.

Scottish wildlife never ceases to impress, on this occasion smaller specimens. I saw a sign about the presence of red squirrels, just as at Ben More previously; and, to me anyway, the sight of an illuminescent dragonfly busily dancing along a small stream while repeatedly dipping its tail into the water (6) was a privilege . Glad I managed to capture the flight on video.

The drive to Lochgoilhead took us down the very steep and aptly named Hell's Glen, popular with cyclists not least because of the smooth road surface. We returned by turning right uphill via an alternative yet equally scenic drive.

It's worth acknowledging that most roads throughout Argyll and Bute, both A-roads and the many single-track roads are well-maintained. One presumes that the municipality accords a high priority to its infrastructure. Could one reason be, apart from tourism, to facilitate the safe passage of its logging trucks to their markets?

⦁ Bunaw and Taynuilt

The next day we drove alongside Loch Awe and along the Pass of Brander to see a unique piece of Scotland's industrial archaeology. Bunawe Iron Furnace (7) owes its origins in 1753 to the development of a support operation for England's iron industry related to Scotland's forestry.

In addition to a range of excavated buildings on the main site, the pier across the road on Loch Etive was the exit point for Bunawe's production to places like Cumbria.

The nearby pretty village of Taynuilt merits a visit if only because it is home to the best tearooms (8) encountered in our two weeks of touring this area.

⦁ Lochgilphead and Crinan

The longest trip we made from Inveraray was to visit the western coastal village of Crinan which faces the Sound of Jura and the Isle of Jura. What a magnificent setting even without mentioning its impressive working canal which links Crinan Loch with Loch Gilp across the neck of the Mull of Kintyre. This acts as a sea to sea short-cut for yachting traffic which navigate through a series of locks operated by dedicated experts. Not a canal boat in sight.

Crinan is also home to an impressive Puffer Steamboat built in 1943 as one of a fleet of 100 inshore vessels originally built to help with the war effort. VIC32 (9) can be chartered for 5-day holiday cruises.

Apart from a 6.2 mile tow-path along the canal, Crinan also has a shorter hike behind the pier up through the Celtic Rainforest (10) of ancient native trees. They hold rare lichens, mosses, liverworts and fungi found nowhere else in the world.

Crinan is a wonderful setting to enjoy a sea swim and a tea-break on a sunny afternoon. I owe a debt of gratitude to my navigator wife for sensing the beauty and interest of Crinan as a great place to visit.

● Inveraray Castle and Dun na Cuaiche

Less than half a mile from our wee hoose sits "one of Scotland's finest stately homes," the 230 year old Inveraray Castle (11). It is the ancestral home of the Dukes of Argyll, chiefs of the clan Campbell. The Castle's attractions will wait for a wet day. With the weather being so good, we explored the estate's grounds and walks.

A monument at the side of the Castle commemorates the execution in 1685 of 17 leaders of Clan Campbell by the Marquis of Atholl.

A little further along, we stumbled on the fantastic 50-minute climb to Dùn na Cuaiche, (12) translated from the Gaelic to the Cuckoo's fortress. The views from this hilltop watchtower over Loch Fyne and Inveraray really are panoramic.

Culinary excellence

After living and travelling around so many lochs over two hectic weeks, the local seafood deserves special mention. The best breakfast out was my succulent kippers at the George Hotel Inverary;

and

the best dinners out were provided by the legendary Loch Fyne Oyster Bar on the north-west side of the loch (13); and by the Samphire restaurant in Inveraray (14).

Just as, for example, tiramisu in the Dolomites differs wonderfully in every establishment, the same applies to home-made chowder in Argyll's fish restaurants.

Conclusion

"Haste ye back" goes without saying.

Apart from revisiting these places, there are others that we failed to explore. Top of that list is Kilmartin Glen just north of Crinan with its Jura aspect. Our guidebook (15) says that Kilmartin contains over 800 archaeological monuments within a six-mile radius. It adds that the Glen was once the heart of the ancient Irish Gaelic kingdom of Dál Riada (16) which - as we all know - includes the most scenic parts of north County Antrim.

I recall a lecture by an academic at Queen's University Belfast who explained that it was Fergus Mór MacEarc (17), the head of the Irish Dálriada, who brought the Gaelic language and customs across to Scotland in the fifth century, the Irish Scotii people.

At this point I am reminded of another Billy Connolly story. His explanation for claiming that the Irish and Scots are all mad is that we have exchanged populations with alarming regularity over many centuries.

References:-

1.https://www.sykescottages.co.uk/cottage/Argyll-The-Isles-Ormidale/Ormidale-House-982133.html?utm_source=enterprise&utm_medium=service_email&utm_campaign=property&utm_content=link)

2. https://positivehotels.co.uk/places/united-kingdom/argyll/inveraray/luxury-hotels/the-george-hotel-inveraray/

3. https://www.wildaboutargyll.co.uk/whats-new/blogs/visit-beautiful-ostel-bay-but-please-park-sensibly-or-better-still-cycle-there/

4. http://www.oldcastlelachlan.com/visit

5. The Times Weekend Travel 17 July 2021 Staycation escapes. "Take a dip into the UK's finest spa towns"

6. https://british-dragonflies.org.uk/species/golden-ringed-dragonfly/

7. Bunawe Iron Furnace https://www.historicenvironment.scot/visit-a-place/places/bonawe-historic-iron-furnace/

8. Robin's Nest Taynuilt https://www.robinsnesttearoom.co.uk/

9. Puffer Steamboat Holidays https://cruisesinscotland.com/boat/vic-32/

10. Crinan Wood https://www.woodlandtrust.org.uk/visiting-woods/woods/crinan-wood/

11. Inverary Castle https://www.visitscotland.com/info/see-do/inveraray-castle-p255441

12. Dun na Cuaiche https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/argyll/dun-na-cuaiche.shtml

13. https://www.lochfyne.com/